In most cases when such external power boxes are used the engine ECU has "injector peak charge long" fault codes stored in it which is the prove that it's not good for the engine and all it does is to trick the injector management hence higher EGT

Cheers, I don't think I have such a box - unless its hiding somewhere. I would expect its going to be somewhere between the computer and the injectors? Pretty sure I would have found it - I had to strip that entire side of the engine to get the top nut undone to remove the starter motor (don't get me started on that little %$#@ of a nut)

Most likely this one is remapped.

I ran a td5 disco for 50k and in my opinion off boost it was as flat as a wicthes tit, as std it was no better than my chipped 300tdi auto and the td5 was a manual!
I ran a Dastek plug in box and it was much better, but still not much cop off boost, then I got it remapped from TD5Alive and it was better but still not perfect, the problem seemed to me there was no happy middle ground, you could have loads of grunt and loads of smoke or little to no smoke and not much power, Gary the guy from alive supplied me with several chips to mess around with and none were the one stop solution I was looking for.

I was going to buy a TD5 auto but after a test drive decided I would rather slit my wrists than live with the total lack of go, the 4 speed was just utter crap.
If they used a 5 or 6 speed the combination would have been brilliant.

Also after some time I fitted a larger intercooler, again another dissapointment as it made zero difference apart from it restricted the air flow through the rad and the viscous fan used to come on up long hills, something it had never done in the previous several thousand miles.

So my top tip is buy a D3 auto, its really is totally different.

lynall said:

<snip> So my top tip is buy a D3 auto, its really is totally different.

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Which would be fine if the D3 was a decent offroader with useful ground clearance and live axles to suit my property and my offroading style... I hear what you're saying, and I've driven them and like them on-road... but I don't trust the TDV6*, nor can I afford the TDV8 - and I definitely don't want another V8.

If I go away from the D2 platform, I'll be buying a Hilux or a Ranger or something like that. I like my D2, so warts and all I'll keep it. I just want to make it better.

*I'm happy to be convinced otherwise, but it seems like everyone I talk to about this engine tells me another horror story about broken cranks and horrible knocks and 5-figure repair bills.

kiwi_steve said:

Which would be fine if the D3 was a decent offroader with useful ground clearance and live axles to suit my property and my offroading style... I hear what you're saying, and I've driven them and like them on-road... but I don't trust the TDV6*, nor can I afford the TDV8 - and I definitely don't want another V8.

If I go away from the D2 platform, I'll be buying a Hilux or a Ranger or something like that. I like my D2, so warts and all I'll keep it. I just want to make it better.

*I'm happy to be convinced otherwise, but it seems like everyone I talk to about this engine tells me another horror story about broken cranks and horrible knocks and 5-figure repair bills.

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It seems to be mainly the 3.0 litre that likes to destroy its crankshaft though there have been cases of the 2.7 doing the same, if you look at pic of the crank, the webbing looks pretty weedy for what its being asked to do, also 2.7 is 189bhp and the 3.0 is 245/55 bhp.
I also think the reason theres nt to much recent info on D3 doing theor cransk iis if they do the car egsts crapped as the repair cost outstrips the value of the car itself.

When the D4 3.0 first came out people were singing its praises, it is wonderful etc way better than the D3 2.7, then after a while the cranks started to go and the good comments stopped coming, apparently the D5 with the 3.0 still has the same crank issues!

I liked my D2 but like all my previous land rovers there was always a snag list of stuff that needed fixing the list which never seems to get any shorter, my current D3 is the only land rover I have ever owned thats pretty much like a normal car maintenance wise and to drive.

I do agree for good old fashioned mechanical simplicity you cant beat a D1/2, I had three D1s as well, not all at the same time!

Pics of l/r 3.0 crank and for comparison Audi v6 3.0tdi crank with its very strange two centre big end journals and I dont hear of them snapping for fun.

...Don't you have to take the body off to change the clutch? if so, I'd never have one!

Date and time Status of Item Location

12/09/2019 12:31 Posted CYLMCN

12/09/2019 14:38 Arrived at export office Larnaca

Exciting... its on its way

Stanleysteamer said:

...Don't you have to take the body off to change the clutch? if so, I'd never have one!

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I dont think its body off, though a quick call to mrclutch and see how expensive the job is might give you the answer?

Its arrived... somewhat confusing interface but I managed to convince it to clear the 3 amigos, but they came straight back - harness fault (on one of the back wheels) of some sort so this weekend I'll go looking for that. I also convinced it (on the third try) to code my V8's key to the TD5 truck - so now I have two fobs, although only one key - I have a spare uncut blade from the last time I bought an empty fob case so I'll see about getting that cut - I've had D2's for about 10 years and this is the first time I've had more than one key! Exciting! I'll probably lose one now

As to other faults - I did see one fault on the engine but didn't take close note of it - I'll sort what that was that in the weekend and report back. I also cleared an intermittent fault on the air bag - passengers air bag shorting to 12V or something to that effect. And I spent a happy 10 minutes using the computer to turn on and off lights, wind windows and various other things I didn't know I could do

The one last thing I tried to find but couldn't was how to turn on the function where if you hold down the lock button the headlights come on for 20 seconds or so... All my D2s have done that except this one.

Cheers, Steve

kiwi_steve said:

how to turn on the function where if you hold down the lock button the headlights come on for 20 seconds or so

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Enable in BCU - Settings - Lights/windows/seats - Courtesy headlamps, also after nanocom was connected to the BCU check all the warning lights after ignition to see them on self test cos nanocom used to have a mind of it's own from time to time and modify settings without request as to set it to petrol, coils, manual/auto, and so on... then you have to go back and reset to reality