sierrafery · Nov 16, 2016

the air bleed valve is in the rear wheel side connection but i've already said it will not stop it to start only make it harder to start in the morning... as long as you get fuel at the FPR the problerm is something else cos here is a no start issue not air in fuel problemas long as it doesnt start... if you run circuit test on the injectors with the scanner can you hear them clkcking?

Jaykay1987 · Nov 16, 2016

sierrafery said:
the air bleed valve is in the rear wheel side connection but i've already said it will not stop it to start only make it harder to start in the morning... as long as you get fuel at the FPR the problerm is something else cos here is a no start issue not air in fuel problemas long as it doesnt start... if you run circuit test on the injectors with the scanner can you hear them clkcking?

Im a novice on the snap on tool, i just got a borrow of a friends £4500 piece of kit for the afternoon lol. So the only thing i could find on it was cylinder balance and watched the live data while cranking over, so i dont know wether they were clicking...i have another running td5, so im going to swap the fuel pumps over & also if i get a gasket kit for the FPR isit worth swapping that over an giving it a try??

Cheers

ozzyboydeano · Nov 17, 2016

sierrafery said:
the air bleed valve is in the rear wheel side connection but i've already said it will not stop it to start only make it harder to start in the morning... as long as you get fuel at the FPR the problerm is something else cos here is a no start issue not air in fuel problemas long as it doesnt start... if you run circuit test on the injectors with the scanner can you hear them clkcking?

that's exactly my point ..I don't need a scan tool to tell me that there is air in the system
I have my bleed valve removed as well as the none return valve car starts perfectly every morning even when sat for a few days

how ever in the original post he mentions he has done previous work and his fuel system has been open to do some jobs

also mentions his balance results are all out of whack ..and inconsistent (air in the system )

to get 5 injectors compensate for each other or fail at once is highly unlikely ..the engine should still start on 3 or 4 cylinders I have tried by disconnecting them when I had injector issues

like I say with mine once I have my fuel system open it becomes a hard starter most of the time a none starter ..unless I help it via getting some RPM up with some spray down the intake

Jaykay1987 · Nov 17, 2016

ozzyboydeano said:
that's exactly my point ..I don't need a scan tool to tell me that there is air in the system
I have my bleed valve removed as well as the none return valve car starts perfectly every morning even when sat for a few days

how ever in the original post he mentions he has done previous work and his fuel system has been open to do some jobs

also mentions his balance results are all out of whack ..and inconsistent (air in the system )

to get 5 injectors compensate for each other or fail at once is highly unlikely ..the engine should still start on 3 or 4 cylinders I have tried by disconnecting them when I had injector issues

like I say with mine once I have my fuel system open it becomes a hard starter most of the time a none starter ..unless I help it via getting some RPM up with some spray down the intake

I have tried easy start, it does absolutely noThing at all

ozzyboydeano · Nov 17, 2016

timing issues or compression issues my friend

ozzyboydeano · Nov 17, 2016

try the same thing thing on your other running engine ..disconnect fuel injection harness or pull out the relay so it wont fire up on its own ..then try easy start ..it will run but konk out when the easy start runs out

best to have some one cranking while spaying direct into the inlet of the turbo ..make sure all boost pipes are connected ..other wise the spray wont reach the inlet manifold

Jaykay1987 · Nov 17, 2016

ozzyboydeano said:
try the same thing thing on your other running engine ..disconnect fuel injection harness or pull out the relay so it wont fire up on its own ..then try easy start ..it will run but konk out when the easy start runs out

best to have some one cranking while spaying direct into the inlet of the turbo ..make sure all boost pipes are connected ..other wise the spray wont reach the inlet manifold

I know ive used it loads mate, i took the big intercooler pipe off and put it straight into the manifold, it barely does anythin

ozzyboydeano · Nov 17, 2016

when you mentioned you have used it loads are you referring to in the past experience or you have used it loads on this engine ?

ask the owner how much his snap on tool diagnostic cost
and why did not diagnose your issue ( a well few grand spent ) PS any thing electrical sold by snap on only has a 12 month warranty .for example a snap on torch or LED light also apply .also anything that cuts do not have a lifetime warranty
I deal with snap on every week they will not replace worn out sockets ..(so I explode them in a press to gain my warranty )

but if your Td5 is not firing up on starting fluid you have other issues
me personally if your engine isn't starting one bit off spray then I would be looking into timing or compression

here is a quick vid it was allot easier doing it this way rather than to explain

Jaykay1987 · Nov 17, 2016

ozzyboydeano said:
when you mentioned you have used it loads are you referring to in the past experience or you have used it loads on this engine ?

ask the owner how much his snap on tool diagnostic cost
and why did not diagnose your issue ( a well few grand spent ) PS any thing electrical sold by snap on only has a 12 month warranty .for example a snap on torch or LED light also apply .also anything that cuts do not have a lifetime warranty
I deal with snap on every week they will not replace worn out sockets ..(so I explode them in a press to gain my warranty )

but if your Td5 is not firing up on starting fluid you have other issues
me personally if your engine isn't starting one bit off spray then I would be looking into timing or compression

here is a quick vid it was allot easier doing it this way rather than to explain

There isnt any fault codes showing up using the snap on tool theres no issue with that, its brand new lol, i just got a borrow of it for the afternoon...i mean in general i have used easy start before so i know how to use it and used it a few times on the engine but still nothing, im a sprayer by trade so i bought the car crash damaged, it was front ended so it was obviously running before it crashed lol, so i cant see it being the timing. even if the timing was out, i would still think it would try and start on easy start...also checked the inertia switch its fine...i still feel its Air in the fuel, as the thing is literally on the edge of starting just wont go

Jaykay1987 · Nov 17, 2016

Jaykay1987 said:
There isnt any fault codes showing up using the snap on tool theres no issue with that, its brand new lol, i just got a borrow of it for the afternoon...i mean in general i have used easy start before so i know how to use it and used it a few times on the engine but still nothing, im a sprayer by trade so i bought the car crash damaged, it was front ended so it was obviously running before it crashed lol, so i cant see it being the timing. even if the timing was out, i would still think it would try and start on easy start...also checked the inertia switch its fine...i still feel its fuel, as the thing is literally on the edge of starting just wont go

Cheers for the vid though! Mine wont run on the easy start, im literally at my witts end with it now!

The one thing i did notice was a little bit of oil in the ecu, but not loads only a bit of residue in it, not enough to warrant saying its that either!

ozzyboydeano · Nov 17, 2016

you should be able to have a TD5 engine standing on its own with out any electrical connected even if the ecu was removed

you should be able to short out the starter to make the engine crank over ..and it should still start with easy start using easy start.... this bypasses all fuel injection and ecu readings

how ever could it be possibe the engine hydro locked before and bent the rods or cracked the pistons or has the engine been running if the vehicle rolled causing a runaway

when cranking can you feel combustion or pressure coming from the rocker cover breather pipe if so compare with your running engine

my opinion if the engine isn't starting on easy start ..I wouldn't be looking at the ECU

Jaykay1987 · Nov 18, 2016

ozzyboydeano said:
you should be able to have a TD5 engine standing on its own with out any electrical connected even if the ecu was removed

you should be able to short out the starter to make the engine crank over ..and it should still start with easy start using easy start.... this bypasses all fuel injection and ecu readings

how ever could it be possibe the engine hydro locked before and bent the rods or cracked the pistons or has the engine been running if the vehicle rolled causing a runaway

when cranking can you feel combustion or pressure coming from the rocker cover breather pipe if so compare with your running engine

my opinion if the engine isn't starting on easy start ..I wouldn't be looking at the ECU

Yea there is back pressure coming from the rocker cover like...it must still have compression as it starts to hydrolock with fuel when excessively keeping my foot down when cranking over because of over fueling, im going to get myself a compression tester today and have a mooch...

ozzyboydeano · Nov 18, 2016

depends on how much compression ..when the cylinder get a belly full of fuel the fuel can not escape fast enough compared to a normal combustion stroke

if there is to much crank case pressure the turbo is not allowed to dump the oil into the sump ..side affects are turbo then starts to bypass oil and most cases back into the air intake and lead to a runaway engine

my last engine rebuild was a 4 cylinder disel out of a Toyota hilux ..one injector failed and over fuelled and melted and cracked the piston resulting to high crank case pressure and oil was coming out the turbo inlet by the litre resulting in the engine running away
ps when you do do injector seals allways best to drain the head as this stops the head from draining into the cylinders

how much back pressure do you have on cranking only if its lots forget about start tearing down the engine

ozzyboydeano · Nov 18, 2016

ps have to ask
are you making oil ..meaning is the oil dipstick getting higher
and take a fuel sample out of the fuel tank is the coolant
also is there fuel in the coolant tank

Jaykay1987 · Nov 18, 2016

ozzyboydeano said:
ps have to ask
are you making oil ..meaning is the oil dipstick getting higher
and take a fuel sample out of the fuel tank is the coolant
also is there fuel in the coolant tank

Everything is fine on that behalf...BUT...got a compression tester, every cylinder was between 450 and 500 psi, apart from cylinder 2 which was barely a 100 psi presumed a bent valve...so got the cam lined up perfect, used a 6mm drill bit to lock it up.

And...HEY PRESTO!! The chains slipped, ya cant get the flywheel to line up.

So looks like its head off tomorrow...only thing im happy about, is at least i know what it is haha

ozzyboydeano · Nov 18, 2016

good find
like I say if wasn't starting on spray it was going to be timing or compression issues

Jaykay1987 · Nov 18, 2016

ozzyboydeano said:
good find
like I say if wasn't starting on spray it was going to be timing or compression issues

Like a said i buy crash damaged direct of the insurance, so 9/10 the cars were driving, but on occasions like this, they probably lost there rag with it and hit it with something, then done it in on the insurance...btw quick one, any links for doing head gasket & chain haha

thanks for your help chaps...

ozzyboydeano · Nov 19, 2016

chain could be stretched but highly doubt it
or some one has already been in there and noticed other damage ..and decided to quickly put back together to sell and skipped a tooth or 3

once you have the head removed check for damaged or crack piston as well has protrusion height turn engine over and check to make sure the piston has not grabbed and scored the piston liner
piston #2 maybe your issue why you have crankcase pressure via the breather and this is why it low on compression

if the piston is melted or it appears to be a blue coulor ..could possibly be due to a faulty injector or oil cooling jet blocked

last time I checked valves I turned the head upside down( from a different engine) and poured some thinners onto the valve seat area I had 2 valves where slightly bent ..and the thinners ran straight through to the valve stems one of the valves was good it was the valve seat that had a piece missing
also visually check the head between ports and injectors may have a slight crack

ps I'm a big believer on changing out head bolts when doing cylinder heads ..i have used old head bolts before and never had issues
but there has been times when you can visually see the bolts are stretched ..this will lead to the head not being clamped down at the correct force ..and eveuntually you will blow out the head gasket

hope you get it sorted mate

markomate2 · Nov 20, 2016

Jaykay1987 said:
Like a said i buy crash damaged direct of the insurance, so 9/10 the cars were driving, but on occasions like this, they probably lost there rag with it and hit it with something, then done it in on the insurance...

Agree with you there! Amazing how many D3s are on Copart, CATD with slight bodywork damage, but with mechanical secondary damage, as if the engine mysteriously exploded just before the "crash"!
Yes you MUST use new head bolts, Turner are pretty good for parts, very carefully inspect the injector pockets when its off, they have a habit of cracking!
Mark

Jaykay1987 · Nov 22, 2016

Just an update...think i know why the timing slipped...just started taking the head off, and took the chain tensioner out, an there wasnt a drop of oil in it or the pipe feeding it...then went on to realise the turbo is seized solid you cant spin the blades at all. When i checked the oil feed to the turbo there wasnt even a residue of oil coming out.

So checked the rotary oil filter...again not a drop of oil in the housing or dripping out the filter either, literally nothing.

Then checked the normal oil filter, and yep barely any oil init!

So i thought lets see if the main oil filter feed squirts oil out when cranking it over, or out of any other oil pipes...NOTHING AT ALL!!

So, isit common for the pumps to fail like this? Or would it be the oil pick up in the sump? Shoot me please lol

Ps it has plenty of oil in it

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