andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

In the next few weeks I shall be tackling the clutch on my td5 d2.
Apart from the clutch,dmf,spigot bearing and release bearing,is there anything else that will probably need/best to be changing while the boxes are out?
Iv seen some people say replace the fork but wasn’t it tdi ones which were crap?
Rear seal? For what it costs I probably will anyway.
I have a new slave to go on aswell as a master so far,what about the slave pin?

Also wondering which clutches are generally considered good?
I don’t do any towing anymore,will use it the odd time maybe for green laning.
Any help or advice is always appreciated

jamesmartin · Apr 11, 2019

tdi pressed steel forks are crap,but the series and v8 forged fork used on the td5 is strong but the push rod and its seat in the fork are prone to wear ,so its quite possible a new fork and rod would be wise, id get valeo there were lrs choice

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

Thanks for that il get them aswell then.

raywin · Apr 11, 2019

Buy the spigot bearing now and put it in a jar of oil so that only the top 2 or 3 mm are sticking out of the oil. The bushes are made from sintered bronze and they are porous so it will absorb some of the oil by the time you are ready to use it..

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

That’s a good tip thanks

neilly · Apr 11, 2019

Are you splitting the tbox from the gbox at all?

Cheers

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

Yes I will be as I’m doing it on my drive so to make it a bit easier il split it.Il be making a cradle to sit on top of my jack to remove the boxes.

neilly · Apr 11, 2019

In that case, you might want to look at the intermediate shaft o ring and check if it is weeping. Also the seal between the Tbox and gbox on the output shaft.

Be careful about the height / space you have underneath to be able to lift it all back into position on a jack. It gets tight on space awfully quick. Are you using an engine hoist to lift the gbox from the top?

Cheers

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

Thanks for mentioning those il look into them aswell.
No hoist just jacks only.
I have some ramps coming as recommended by someone else on this forum the other day which he said was fine when he did his.
So hopefully it will go to plan,Iv done a good few on a ramp but never on the floor.

neilly · Apr 11, 2019

OK, good luck.

Also there is the threaded bars suggestion to help align the tbox to gbox , and make sure all the wires are kept out of the way when you put the gbox back on. The Oil pressure wire runs over the top of the bell housing.

Cheers

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

Ok cheers.Thanks for the tips,much appreciated.

BravoNovember · Apr 11, 2019

I wish I had his bravery lol. I bottled it and decided to get mine done at the garage.

Hope it goes well buddy.

Bennehboy · Apr 11, 2019

Start liberally dowsing the crossmember bolts with plus gas now to try and avoid having to cold chisel them all off.

You'll want a new transfer box input seal, the R380 output seal is likely to be fine and is a bit fiddly to replace anyway.

If you get some threaded bar that matches the thread of the bolts securing the tbox to the gearbox you can use 3 lengths of it as a guide to slide the transfer box back on when refitting - this way you'll avoid damaging the new input seal on the gearbox output.

Get some pop rivets or rivnuts, you'll be needing to remove the centre console and the gearbox tunnel cover plate to make access simpler and you'll need these for reassembly.

Don't forget to disconnect the crank position sensor cable before dropping the gearbox off.

Bleeding the clutch is by far the most painful bit of the process, you might want to look at some form of pressure bleeding system.

Don't forget oils

There's a writeup with pics of me doing this job in my vehicle fred -> https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/bennehboys-d2-adventure.254514/page-3 long time back.

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

Excellent stuff thank you

raywin · Apr 11, 2019

That transfer box is a difficult lump to work with as the balance is bad take care not to drop it on you it will leave a mark for sure.
Dont know how good your woodwork skills are but look at the picture below ( not mine) shows an ingenious way to make the job better and safer.

neilly · Apr 11, 2019

@Bennehboy

Did you use an engine hoist to lift the gbox into place?

Cheers

andy85 · Apr 11, 2019

Love that raywin,I’m not so good with wood but am a fabricator/welder so could soon knock that up in steel with some bits I have cheers.
Some great ideas/tips and suggestions here people thank you all.

raywin · Apr 11, 2019

when I put the transfer box in my Defender I used an engine crane with a little pull lift mounted on it to allow me to move it accuratly and work single handed.

neilly · Apr 11, 2019

The drawings for the tbox frame are iirc in rave, with all dimensions.

Cheers

berg450 · Apr 11, 2019

maybe you have seen this video, explains exactly what you need.

I have done this job already 2 times, so I am prepared with some tools to make life more easy....
if you work from under using only jack you will need about 20cm lift on all 4 wheels to have enough room to work under and also to remove boxes from under the car.
Here are the tools what I used. For the spigot I have tried all tricks to remove and finally I have fabricated this simple puller which worked great. Also good idea to have 3 guide bolts (I have used long bolts and cut the heads off) for repositioning the Tbox.

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