Webasto Thermotop was I believe factory fit, not cheap though, various models, some just need a 12v signal to start, and others need a canbus or wbus signal to start.
You can get cheap chinese air/coolant heater for a lot less than the price of a Webasto unit.
Webasto and Eberspacher cost a bloody fortune in spares when they go wrong, and the Thermotop does like to go wrong, have had two ecus fail over the years, and my D3 one recently died for the same reason (making it 3 failures) though a 2nd hand one was less than a 100 quid.
You can get cheap chinese air/coolant heater for a lot less than the price of a Webasto unit.
Webasto and Eberspacher cost a bloody fortune in spares when they go wrong, and the Thermotop does like to go wrong, have had two ecus fail over the years, and my D3 one recently died for the same reason (making it 3 failures) though a 2nd hand one was less than a 100 quid.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
julianf
Well-Known Member
Themotops are available from scrapped people carriers.
I forget the details but you need to get a non can bus one.
Ive had them off, umm, seat something or other before.
I've currently got two working ones and one for parts. I think my total spend has been £25. But a fair bit of effort also.
Someone on eBay does a replacement ECU board if you have a can bus one and want to convert it to single wire operation, but I think the PCB sells for about 4x my £25 (for three) purchase price.
If you're buying one, make sure you get one with a pump. Often they're sold without the (water) pump as whoever has pulled it has left it behind.
You'll need the pump for preheating.
If you get a cheap central locking kit, they often have a spare "channel" that does the boot or somthing. You can trigger a timed relay off that (timed so the heater won't just stay on if you press the button then get side tracked) and activate the whole lot before you even leave your house.
They run nicer off kerosene than diesel, so a little tank of kerosene somewhere does them well too.
I forget the details but you need to get a non can bus one.
Ive had them off, umm, seat something or other before.
I've currently got two working ones and one for parts. I think my total spend has been £25. But a fair bit of effort also.
Someone on eBay does a replacement ECU board if you have a can bus one and want to convert it to single wire operation, but I think the PCB sells for about 4x my £25 (for three) purchase price.
If you're buying one, make sure you get one with a pump. Often they're sold without the (water) pump as whoever has pulled it has left it behind.
You'll need the pump for preheating.
If you get a cheap central locking kit, they often have a spare "channel" that does the boot or somthing. You can trigger a timed relay off that (timed so the heater won't just stay on if you press the button then get side tracked) and activate the whole lot before you even leave your house.
They run nicer off kerosene than diesel, so a little tank of kerosene somewhere does them well too.
JockHiltz
Member
oh this is interesting.... all the block heaters I've used in the past were just small elements that fitted in the engine frost plug.
www.canadiantire.ca
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www.canadiantire.ca
Not something we use in the UK, but I am sure they will do a frost plug your size in your country?oh this is interesting.... all the block heaters I've used in the past were just small elements that fitted in the engine frost plug.
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JockHiltz
Member
I’ll poke around… any idea of the size of the frost plug in the TD5?
Sorry no idea, again not something that really goes wrong to often in the UK.
I have changed a few frist or as we call them core plugs on hgvs, but never any that I can recall on a car.
