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goldypurple

Active Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #1

How many belts are on a TD5 engine?

reason I ask I have a sqeek/sqeel when I ease off the revs, and im thinking its a belt/tensioner issue.

so trying to work out how many belt there are as ive seen fan belt and serpentine belts advertised. My defender is a 2002, no air con no ace

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #2

Only the one.

Auxilary belt / Serpentine belt / Fan belt. Call it what you like. LOL.

Cheers

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #3

But there are two sizes available for the defender.


One with Air con and one without.

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/drive-belt-britpart-pqs101490-p-1440.html

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/drive-belt-britpart-pqs101500-p-2177.html

Obviously you can ignore the part about ACE in the description as you have a Defender.

Cheers

 

Last edited: Oct 18, 2016

raywin

Well-Known Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #4

There are some diagrams of the variations on this page if it helps:
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Td5engine.htm

 

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goldypurple

Active Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #5

thanks guys, do you recommend changing the idler as well as the tensioner? mine has no air con, any idea on part numbers and best place to order from?

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #6

Hi Look here for part numbers.

Double check them though, just for peace of mind.

http://allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=751230&SPRACHE=EN

Somethiing like this, I would look at lrdirect, ( other suppliers are available). But with them you get to choose a supplier of the part against cost.

Cheers

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #7

I personally would take the belt off and check the tensioner and idlers for ease of movement / rotation and make sure they are not sloppy.

You may find it is possible to change the bearing only if you fancy a little tinkering. ( this is something I have done on a 300tdi tensioner )

Cheers

 

Jay222

Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #8

I recently had to change both the belt and the idler, the idler jammed causing the belt to squeal and then get pulled off completely

 

Brown

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #9

As usual, try and keep away from Britpart and go for a famous name brand like Dayco or similar. If you change the belt before it disintegrates completely you can keep the old one in the car as a spare. The nice thing about the TD5 is you get a spring loaded jockey wheel to keep the belt tight. No more struggling to wedge the alternator out while you do the nut up, only to find it has gone slack in the process. I changed the tensioner last time I changed my belt because the spring gets a bit tired after a while and may allow the belt to slip under heavy cornering, heavy alternator loads etc.

 

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lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Oct 18, 2016

• #10

Look at the wheel on the tensioner and you can see where the belt has run it should be central ish if its running central the pivot bush if okay and it can go again, if its running to one side its had it and will let you down at some point.
When the bush has worn the belt runs off to one side then when its gone to far it jumps back, the jump back is when the belt squeaks.

Its a bit like cambelts nowadays no one does just the belt, its tensioners and idlers all at the same time to get the best life.
We have lots of belt issues at work and have tried all variations but new belt with new tensioner always goes the distance.

 

gazman

Well-Known Member

• Oct 19, 2016

• #11

I recall vaguely that the pulley has a harmonic balancer in it, and when the rubbers etc fail they can cause squeaking. But worse when starting and stopping. Gonna check Google to make sure I've not dreamt it