Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Or your tank is empty. 
Hello everyone! I'm new here and this is my first post. Sorry for my english...
I have Disco Td5, late 2001 model (EU3 engine) with same problem. It is hard to start the car when gas tank is more than half empty.
I have new pump, new engine head (because of the crack in the injector seat) and injector seals and no visible fuel leak.
So after I read all these writing I decided to order new non return valve VUB503950 because this is only part I found in fuel filter housing. All other pipes are empty.
The non return valve I have is like that:
And new part is like that:
The new part is only part of empty tube.Red ruber part of valve is missing.
I don't know how can that part work as non return valve??? I think that red thing can act as non return valve.
Does anyone know P/N for that red rubber part? I can't find it in Microcat.
Thank you!
I have Disco Td5, late 2001 model (EU3 engine) with same problem. It is hard to start the car when gas tank is more than half empty.
I have new pump, new engine head (because of the crack in the injector seat) and injector seals and no visible fuel leak.
So after I read all these writing I decided to order new non return valve VUB503950 because this is only part I found in fuel filter housing. All other pipes are empty.
The non return valve I have is like that:
And new part is like that:
The new part is only part of empty tube.Red ruber part of valve is missing.
I don't know how can that part work as non return valve??? I think that red thing can act as non return valve.
Does anyone know P/N for that red rubber part? I can't find it in Microcat.
Thank you!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Check again after u see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1597824-post8.html
Yes, for the reasons explained in the above post link, the air bleed valve is an essential component of the Td5 fuel delivery sytem.
May or may not signify the end your troubles, but IME definitely needs to be there.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
+1 ^^^
steve's P38 RR
Active Member
Hello everyone! I'm new here and this is my first post. Sorry for my english...
I have Disco Td5, late 2001 model (EU3 engine) with same problem. It is hard to start the car when gas tank is more than half empty.
I have new pump, new engine head (because of the crack in the injector seat) and injector seals and no visible fuel leak.
So after I read all these writing I decided to order new non return valve VUB503950 because this is only part I found in fuel filter housing. All other pipes are empty.
The non return valve I have is like that:
And new part is like that:
The new part is only part of empty tube.Red ruber part of valve is missing.
I don't know how can that part work as non return valve??? I think that red thing can act as non return valve.
Does anyone know P/N for that red rubber part? I can't find it in Microcat.
Thank you!
Has anyone found a way to buy the red rubber bit as above of the non return valve, lr are telling me you have to have the complete filter housing, seems silly as you can but the other bits.
omara04
New Member
Hi Guys
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I've been reading this with great interest now for a few days.
You might well know that I've had a very poorly TD5, but it's now all fixed, and has set me back a small fortune as a cracked head and piston lube jet falling off meant I've had to have the block re-lined, crank re-ground, new head and a shed load of parts and labour etc.
Now, I've got it back and it's running just peachy. Really really nice, like a brand new engine (well you would expect that anyway lol) but it's a pig to start when it's been left stood overnight.
When parked on level ground, takes about 3mins of cranking, nearly firing, spluttering and then hey presto it starts and runs beautifully. It'll even start perfectly fine if you stop it and start it within minutes or a few hours.
When parked on a very steep hill, nose down, no problems, even from overnight. (Haven't tried nose up, because I think it'll be the same as level ground, only worse).
I'm pretty certain it's the same issue - e.g. air in the fuel, fuel draining away from the head overnight etc. so am going to purchase a fuel filter and the air bleed valve/non return valve. I'm certain it's not the old injector-leak-by problem because it's all brand new, including a new head, and the oil is a lovely syrup colour and the level has not gone up at all in 200miles (previously it was overfilling the sump and leaking up the dipstick tube in 30!!)
So just wondered if any of the guys above have drawn any conclusions from the work, and just like to reaffirm what I should be expecting to find in each of the 3 pipes when I put them back together?
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Steve
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I've been reading this with great interest now for a few days.
You might well know that I've had a very poorly TD5, but it's now all fixed, and has set me back a small fortune as a cracked head and piston lube jet falling off meant I've had to have the block re-lined, crank re-ground, new head and a shed load of parts and labour etc.
Now, I've got it back and it's running just peachy. Really really nice, like a brand new engine (well you would expect that anyway lol) but it's a pig to start when it's been left stood overnight.
When parked on level ground, takes about 3mins of cranking, nearly firing, spluttering and then hey presto it starts and runs beautifully. It'll even start perfectly fine if you stop it and start it within minutes or a few hours.
When parked on a very steep hill, nose down, no problems, even from overnight. (Haven't tried nose up, because I think it'll be the same as level ground, only worse).
I'm pretty certain it's the same issue - e.g. air in the fuel, fuel draining away from the head overnight etc. so am going to purchase a fuel filter and the air bleed valve/non return valve. I'm certain it's not the old injector-leak-by problem because it's all brand new, including a new head, and the oil is a lovely syrup colour and the level has not gone up at all in 200miles (previously it was overfilling the sump and leaking up the dipstick tube in 30!!)
So just wondered if any of the guys above have drawn any conclusions from the work, and just like to reaffirm what I should be expecting to find in each of the 3 pipes when I put them back together?
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Steve
hodgey2k12
New Member
I had the same thing happen on my 300 tdi and it turn'd out to be the little leak off pipe had split but I don't know to much about td5 but may give you some were to start
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
it's here on page 2 http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1428919-post17.html , but if you have the original fuel filter housing on '99 modells there's no non-return valve fitted, just the air bleed valve
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omara04
New Member
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
@hodgy - unfortunately the TD5 is a completely different injection philosophy and doesn't have leak-off pipes as the fuel runs inside a casting in the head. Thank you for posting though.
@sierra - yes you were spot on, and thanks for the link that's very useful. At the weekend I found there wasn't a non-return valve, and the one I'd bought wouldn't fit. The air bleed valve was blocked and gummed up, so I just replaced it as I had the new one to hand. (plus new fuel filter, plus new sedimenter) First proper test was this morning to get to work, and as it was parked on the level, whilst there was a bit of an improvement (reduced from 3mins of cranking to just 1min) but it's still not a happy starter. I'm wondering whether the new AMC cylinder head has a bigger fuel gallery or something else is somehow different, casuing the fuel to drain back to the tank?
Is it possible to get a modified or later pushfit to screw connector that allows the NRV to fit? I'm pretty certain it's fuel related because when you crank it over and give it a bit of gas it fires intermittantly, and then finally catches after about 1min of cranking. Also, the NRV, well how does it work exactly? It's just a straight through bit of plastic. Is it just the restriction in the line that breaks up any syphon effect?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steve
@hodgy - unfortunately the TD5 is a completely different injection philosophy and doesn't have leak-off pipes as the fuel runs inside a casting in the head. Thank you for posting though.
@sierra - yes you were spot on, and thanks for the link that's very useful. At the weekend I found there wasn't a non-return valve, and the one I'd bought wouldn't fit. The air bleed valve was blocked and gummed up, so I just replaced it as I had the new one to hand. (plus new fuel filter, plus new sedimenter) First proper test was this morning to get to work, and as it was parked on the level, whilst there was a bit of an improvement (reduced from 3mins of cranking to just 1min) but it's still not a happy starter. I'm wondering whether the new AMC cylinder head has a bigger fuel gallery or something else is somehow different, casuing the fuel to drain back to the tank?
Is it possible to get a modified or later pushfit to screw connector that allows the NRV to fit? I'm pretty certain it's fuel related because when you crank it over and give it a bit of gas it fires intermittantly, and then finally catches after about 1min of cranking. Also, the NRV, well how does it work exactly? It's just a straight through bit of plastic. Is it just the restriction in the line that breaks up any syphon effect?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Steve
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
the newer fuel filter housings have a larger input where the NRV fits in.
did you run several purging procedures after you replaced the engine...next morning give it 5 throttles with ignition on pos 2 then wait untill the MIL stops and try to crank it after that...if it will start better do that procedure few times cos it's possible that some air is still trapped in the circuit.
here's the circuit(it's no description about the NRV here, maybe in the newer RAVE)
did you run several purging procedures after you replaced the engine...next morning give it 5 throttles with ignition on pos 2 then wait untill the MIL stops and try to crank it after that...if it will start better do that procedure few times cos it's possible that some air is still trapped in the circuit.
here's the circuit(it's no description about the NRV here, maybe in the newer RAVE)
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