chrimcne

Active Member
MOT booked for early next week and the three amigos have appeared. :mad: Don't have time to solve the issue so was trying to disable the actual dash lights. I have disconnected wires 5 and 10 in connector 233, but that didn't work, I have taken the connector out but that didn't work. Removed fuse 27 but that extinguished all dash warning lights as did removing connector 230 and may look a bit suspicious !! Any help appreciated.
 
Great reply - after much thought and a few cans of beer (Adnams of course) I think I may just be able to understand this. To keep it simple for me if I were to run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to holes 5 and 10 on connector 233 the light would be extinguished ?
Thank God I've got the series 1; easy to work on, no MOT needed and will probably tow the Discovery to the garage at this rate !!
 
You could try getting the lights reset just before the mot. I did that a month ago. They came back on after 2 weeks. Think I have to replace both rear hubs now! (Faults are int' both rear sensors)

Dave
 
was just reading similar thread on freelander titled the two amigos, they came to the conclusion the break switch was at fault hope this helps.
 
Get it fixed sounds like rogue traders, if you can't afford to maintain a vehicle and want to bodge it, walk or get the bus
 
If they dont light up then you will fail your mot they aint daft.

Seconding that. No examiner will fall for that. Ask any P38 owner. We have issues because our ABS light doesn't go out until the car is doing 7mph so examiners think it's a fault.
 
It will fail anyway because the lights have to illuminate on key turn and THEN extinguish.
Just find and fix the bloody fault and stop trying to deceive the MOT tester.
 
Just find and fix the bloody fault and stop trying to deceive the MOT tester.

Get it fixed sounds like rogue traders, if you can't afford to maintain a vehicle and want to bodge it, walk or get the bus

Do you really want to compromise safety for the sake of a few quid, the lights come on for a reason. Makes my blood boil when I read posts like yours.
I take it if you managed a bodge you would leave it like that, thinking you had done well, fleecing any future buyer.
 
Excellent Sierrafery – that worked and all lights now stay on for ‘self test’ and then extinguish. Certainly set the old cat amongst the pigeons with this one, shame the lights didn’t come on after the MOT, would have then had time to get it all sorted and not asked for help.
How many of the born again Christians here take their LR off the road the minute a warning or amber light (not red) comes on. I dare say they all observe the law of the land and road to the letter.
Bigeeee – sorry Disco not for sale, just about to hit 250,000 miles and intend to keep it going for another few thousand yet, the trick to longevity is not to let a garage any where near it, last time it went in was about 8 years ago at 120,000 and it came out in a worse state.
Now all I have to do for the MOT is get both front wheels pointing in the same direction, free the seized calipers, duct tape on rear air bags, some brown packing tape over the split chassis …………….and another trouble free year of motoring ahead.
If you see an Oxford Blue Disco in your rear view mirror don’t stop too quickly, you’ll never know who’s behind you !!! :crazy_driver:
 
Excellent Sierrafery – that worked and all lights now stay on for ‘self test’ and then extinguish. Certainly set the old cat amongst the pigeons with this one, shame the lights didn’t come on after the MOT, would have then had time to get it all sorted and not asked for help.
How many of the born again Christians here take their LR off the road the minute a warning or amber light (not red) comes on. I dare say they all observe the law of the land and road to the letter.
Bigeeee – sorry Disco not for sale, just about to hit 250,000 miles and intend to keep it going for another few thousand yet, the trick to longevity is not to let a garage any where near it, last time it went in was about 8 years ago at 120,000 and it came out in a worse state.
Now all I have to do for the MOT is get both front wheels pointing in the same direction, free the seized calipers, duct tape on rear air bags, some brown packing tape over the split chassis …………….and another trouble free year of motoring ahead.
If you see an Oxford Blue Disco in your rear view mirror don’t stop too quickly, you’ll never know who’s behind you !!! :crazy_driver:
I DO after some prick sold me a terrano with the eml and abs lights blanked out.whilst my wife was out in it and needed to brake hard and brakes failed.
 
I do actually make an effort to find out what's wrong with my car when warning lights are on, and make a decision as to whether it is safe to continue to drive it *once that's known*.

You've gone out of your way to hide a fault which might or might not be safety critical, so it will get an MOT certificate which it would not legitimately get.

Let's hope your car doesn't cause damage or worse injure or kill someone. Wouldn't look good for this thread to show up in court, would it?
 
I must admit, I got the lights reset just to get through my MOT. BUT I intend sorting, just needed more time!
Car tested thoroughly and TC and ABS work fine.
Just started "accumulating" the parts/tools needed to change both rear hubs! Just won a whacking great torque wrench off fleabay to get the stake nuts on/off properly!

Anyone in Southampton area got the same problem I'll swap labour for labour if you want. (But we'll do YOURS first for the practice, then mine!!)

Need to save up for the hubs (locktite, stake nuts, o rings-maybe, 32mm socket, bearing puller going by www.discovery2.co.uk / Front Wheel Hub / Bearing Assy anything else I've missed?!)

Dave
 
did you read the fault codes as you are certain that the hubs are at fault...cos maybe you replace the hubs:)confused:...why both of them are worn?, do you have air gap fault codes on both rear hubs? ) ...then you'll realise that it was a SVS or other fault.
 
Had the codes read by main dealer for the MOT, "intermittent fault on both rear abs sensors". Reset them, then reoccurred 2 weeks later.
Read/reset again from local LR bloke (much cheaper) and that read the same (but only one side. Given time it'd prob read both again!)
Only lasted a few hours this time before lights came on again.

I've previously (since the first light came on) replaced the rear discs and brakes (as on inspection they were really low)

So that leaves hubs (with built in sensors) should fix it?!

Dave
 
I'll forgive people quite happily for resetting fault lights and see if they come back on.

But actually splicing into looms, removing fuses. That's deceitful/dishonest.

(Spoken as someone who bought a car that chimed without warning lights, turned out the ACE LED had been ripped off the instrument cluster PCB)
 
Had the codes read by main dealer for the MOT, "intermittent fault on both rear abs sensors". Reset them, then reoccurred 2 weeks later.
Read/reset again from local LR bloke (much cheaper) and that read the same (but only one side. Given time it'd prob read both again!)
Only lasted a few hours this time before lights came on again.

I've previously (since the first light came on) replaced the rear discs and brakes (as on inspection they were really low)

So that leaves hubs (with built in sensors) should fix it?!

Dave

in this case yes, new hubs are the cure, except if there's water ingress and corrosion at the SLABS ECU's plugs...which is quite common
 
I had an ongoing problem with the 3 amigo's constantly coming on, changed everything and yes changing the ECU unit eventually seemed to cure it....so far!
 
Update;
Two new hubs fitted (myself) and got the lights reset on Thursday. They didn't clear themselves as some say they should. No returns as yet so fingers crossed its cured (for now!)

Dave
(PS I have a nice torque wrench now, but broke my bearing pullers on the second hub removal!)
Happy to help/advise/lend wrench to anyone local doing the same job!
 

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