sierrafery said:
Power bleed has nothing to do with hubs or sensors... i think i explained and also i've told you what to check with attachments, the rest is like in your topic's title .... blah blah....
Click to expand...

Sorry sierrafery...you have explained and thank you for the attachments, i will try to do these checks myself and i intend on getting a power bleed this week some time...i just thought i should mention the hub speed difference because it came to mind and wanted to check, i dont pretend to be upto speed with these issues, please do not take my initial inabilities as lack of enthusiasm, i have always had a go at my bikes, boats and cars myself before rushing to an expensive garage but it can be a frustrating learning curve at times......like these 3 amigo's.... the blah blah blah in my title was just trying to make light because you are all probably sick to death with the same questions again and again.
I do thank you and everyone else for the time and effort put in here and other forums, the wealth of knowledge is priceless.
 
sierrafery said:
it's in the engine bay fusebox, shown as FL11 on the lid, remove it and make continuity test across the legs(unless you see it's blown), for the sensor fault you have to make continuity test from the ECU's plug C0505 across pins 1 - 2 and for the pump's circuit C0506 pin 15 and ground... Do you have RAVE?
Click to expand...


I tried to get outside for a bit after work before it got dark.

I tried F11 and it has continuity.

While i was under the bonnet i checked a couple of readings on the 13pin plug and the ground pin on the modulator.

Pin 8 and the ground pin had continuity.

Now...I think i made a mistake here or had the wrong setting on my multi meter...Pin 9 and the ground pin had a reading of 298 ,i was in a bit of a rush doing this and i will recheck tomorrow as somehow in my head was converting this to 2098. I think this should have a an actual reading of 3020 + or - 30. now i am typing this out it would be more likely 2980. So would this be wrong at 2980? As i say, i will recheck tomorrow.

As far as checking the ECU plugs go...i got as far as getting my glove box out and locating the plugs but ran out of time to pull anything apart, it looks like a scary bit to do so i dont want to rush that.
 
sierrafery said:
it's in the engine bay fusebox, shown as FL11 on the lid, remove it and make continuity test across the legs(unless you see it's blown), for the sensor fault you have to make continuity test from the ECU's plug C0505 across pins 1 - 2 and for the pump's circuit C0506 pin 15 and ground... Do you have RAVE?
Click to expand...

I presume that i am doing the test on the plug (female side).

I did a continuity test on the C0505 pins 1 - 2 i did not get continuity, i got a reading...972.

I did the test on C0506 , pin 15 and ground, no continuity. I did it on the rest while i was there, they all had continuity except 6,9,12 and 15.

just in case i should of been doing the test on the ecu male pin side i did the same tests on both ....nothing.
 
smeee said:
I did a continuity test on the C0505 pins 1 - 2 i did not get continuity, i got a reading...972.
Click to expand...
Which means the circuit is closed through the sensor cos the sensor should have between 950-1100 Ohm
smeee said:
I did the test on C0506 , pin 15 and ground, no continuity
Click to expand...
if it's completely open circuit with no resistance replace relay R10 to rule it out, eventually measure resistance across it's terminals 85-86 cos that's what you should get across C0506-15 and ground
 
sierrafery said:
Which means the circuit is closed through the sensor cos the sensor should have between 950-1100 Ohm
if it's completely open circuit with no resistance replace relay R10 to rule it out, eventually measure resistance across it's terminals 85-86 cos that's what you should get across C0506-15 and ground
Click to expand...

With R10 removed i measured continuity across 85-86, no continuity but a reading of 88.

When i did the same test but straight into the fuse box holes for 85-86 then i got continuity.

The relay was new last week, it was from halfords so probably just generic and nothing special. i dont know how finicky these things are.
 
smeee said:
With R10 removed i measured continuity across 85-86, no continuity but a reading of 88.
Click to expand...
you should get that 88(or very close to it) across C0506 -15 and ground...if not the problem is an interruption on that circuit between the ECU and relay's coil, which can be broken wire or within the fusebox. Check in fusebox cavities with relay removed where 85, 86 are going both against earth, you should get closed to earth one of them, if you get you'll have to undo the fusebox to get to C0577 pin 7 connect it to earth with a piece of wire and see again 0506 -15 against earth cos it's hardwired to 0577 - 7 so if you dont get earth there the wire is broken, if you get earth plug it back and if you do'nt get 88 or so with relay in it's place or you dont get earth on any of 85 or 86 you need another fusebox
 
i have just woken up and realized that when i measured the actual pin holes in the fusebox for R10 , i still had C0505 + C0506 unpluged under the dash!, i know you did not ask me to measure these holes, just the pins on the relay itself- but its really bugging me now that i may have given false info. I can plug them back in and get another reading before i do the other things you just mentioned. ....not sure if it matters or not...

Ive got to do bacon and egg butties for the family soon and then ill get out there... thanks for hanging in there for me.
 
Bloody hell!... I've just been taking measurements again at the fuse box, R10.
While I was there I took out another relay to compare the pins for some reason!
When I put them side by side I noticed the numbers embossed on the bottom were the same but in a different order!
I swapped the relays over and turned the ignition on and the 3 amigos went out and so did the handbrake light.
The only one that stayed on was the active suspension light!
Changed them back... Amigos back... Changed again... Amigos gone and suspension light back on...
Woo hoo... Happy man!
I changed the ABS sensor the same time I put a new hub sensor in so I changed 2 things at once and been chasing my tail ever since! I just presumed the relay was correct as this is the one they pointed me to in Halford!...
Thank you for your perseverance on this sierrafery. I was at a loss and didn't even know where to start.
I have attached a couple of photos showing the difference in relays. 20191027_114821.jpg 20191027_115206.jpg 20191027_115105.jpg
 
smeee said:
Bloody hell!... I've just been taking measurements again at the fuse box, R10.
While I was there I took out another relay to compare the pins for some reason!
When I put them side by side I noticed the numbers embossed on the bottom were the same but in a different order!
I swapped the relays over and turned the ignition on and the 3 amigos went out and so did the handbrake light.
The only one that stayed on was the active suspension light!
Changed them back... Amigos back... Changed again... Amigos gone and suspension light back on...
Woo hoo... Happy man!
I changed the ABS sensor
the same time I put a new hub sensor in so I changed 2 things at once and been chasing my tail ever since! I just presumed the relay was correct as this is the one they pointed me to in Halford!...
Thank you for your perseverance on this sierrafery. I was at a loss and didn't even know where to start.
I have attached a couple of photos showing the difference in relays. View attachment 192751 View attachment 192752 View attachment 192753
Click to expand...
 
That's why better use relays by LR part number cos there are more versions with the same shape, put a proper one for the suspension too ... anyway i'm glad it's sorted.
 
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