Nope.

Running with the MAF unplugged makes sod all difference to this problem. Also the MAF doesn't have anything to do with the brakes.
 
Wouldnt it be easier to take it to a laptop guru and see whats actually happening with fuel pressure and turbo boost...please let us know the outcome of the fix.
 
HI Guys, Gals & Sheep,

I took the beasty to a 4x4 garage with an autologic box of tricks (how much is one of those things? I think all Landys should come with one ;) ).

There is a fault recorded with the MAF. So what are the new MAF options? Is it worth fitting one of Rover Rons boxes at this stage?

I'm not sure how the MAF might be related to a problem with the vacuum pump on the breaks though:confused: .

Dave
 
Have a read of ROVERRON site.. He offers a PIERBURGH MAF and a mafam box that will sort out the basics. Or (as I did) go for a Synergy box and use your old MAF sensor. If your not happy you can refund......

ROVERRON TUNING. HOME
 
Hi All,

Sorted !!!

The problem was with solenoid that controls the vacuum for the VNT. About £45 from the main dealer and 30 minutes under the car between the showers.

I also replaced the MAF with a Pierburgh unit and one of Reverrons toys. I just need to find the best setting.

Getting back to the vacuum solenoid, am I the only person that thinks its a little silly to have the atmosphere breather (with the petrol filter on the end) down at the bottom of the engine where it can suck in water from motorway spray or country lane (or town center at the moment) fording?
 
Darth Viking said:
Hi All,

Sorted !!!

The problem was with solenoid that controls the vacuum for the VNT. About £45 from the main dealer and 30 minutes under the car between the showers.

I also replaced the MAF with a Pierburgh unit and one of Reverrons toys. I just need to find the best setting.

Getting back to the vacuum solenoid, am I the only person that thinks its a little silly to have the atmosphere breather (with the petrol filter on the end) down at the bottom of the engine where it can suck in water from motorway spray or country lane (or town center at the moment) fording?
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
ming said:
hi daft vador. . . .check the vacuum filter, back er engine lhs side ,looks like er old type fuel filter ,its clear plastic un open to atmosphere ,put yer finger over the blank end wiff motor running un it should suck er tad. . . .er td4 that is :) :) :)
Click to expand...
iv just been outside to check for a vacume on the pipe you are on about and there is no vacume on it with the motor ticking over i could not rev it as i was by myself , the filter is not blocked as it is brand new and fitted last week ,
my td4 intermittently runs out of steam at 2500 to 3000 rpm normally with the caravan on the back if i dip the clutch it will rev to the red line but when i let the clutch up no power even if i drop a gear then after a min or to all is well again
iv checked all the vacume pipes etc. all is well and i can move the linkage on the turbo with my finger but it feels quite stiff is this normal
 
Hi iand1967,

Mine has very little (if any) vacuum at idle, but there is a noticeable vacuum when revved (finally found a use for SWMBO).
As for the linkage, my moves fairly easily, but this is quite a subjective term. A new control solenoid costs about £45 inc VAT, so it depends how much you want to spend on a whim.

Dave
 
Darth Viking said:
Hi iand1967,

Mine has very little (if any) vacuum at idle, but there is a noticeable vacuum when revved (finally found a use for SWMBO).
As for the linkage, my moves fairly easily, but this is quite a subjective term. A new control solenoid costs about £45 inc VAT, so it depends how much you want to spend on a whim.

Dave
Click to expand...
intresting one i wonder if there is any way to test the solenoid or even the turbo , ??
 
hey guys, going back to my issuse, after about 3 months i've got it all sorted finally.
just to recap my problems were the turbo cutting out at around 3000rpm in high gears, hunting like a bitch on tickover and just general lack of "get up and go" from pulling away.

so, i changed the fuel pump (rear) - no joy
changed the maf as there were some funny reading coming back - no joy
new injectors for the hunting - no joy

i started getting pi$$ed off as i couldnt sort it out, then the lord must have shon on me or something as i got an error code! i never thought i'd be so happy to see that little orange light. FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR OUT OF RANGE (HIGH)

so poped that bad boy and tickover was sweet as a nut, but turbo still dropping out.
was about to get the whole turbo pulled and sent off when the garage found that the EGR valve was acting up, but it would only do it in 4th or above when you had your foot buried on a slight hill.

so there you go, hope this will help some of you out, i did it the expencive way.
 
eightinavee said:
Your engine is overboosting,this causes the engine Ecu to cut fuelling to prevent engine damage.often caused by the linkage on the VNT,(variable nozzle turbo) jamming up or falling apart inside the turbo_Or the vacuum pipe has fallen off the actuator capsule or solenoid controller.The solenoid that controls the application of vacuum can also fail.
Click to expand...

I have read this most helpful message.

I have turbo problems. I was told weeks ago by specialists that the problem is the solenoid. However, they were, and now weeks later still are, unable to source a replacement. I am now told that LandRover do not have such a solenoid and that there is no such solenoid available from any landrover dealer in the country.

My TD4 continues to struggle at 3000 rpm in top gear and at lower speeds up hills.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

DEP
 
d.eluard.parry@googlemail.com said:
I have read this most helpful message.

I have turbo problems. I was told weeks ago by specialists that the problem is the solenoid. However, they were, and now weeks later still are, unable to source a replacement. I am now told that LandRover do not have such a solenoid and that there is no such solenoid available from any landrover dealer in the country.

My TD4 continues to struggle at 3000 rpm in top gear and at lower speeds up hills.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

DEP
Click to expand...

Try at a BMW garage ??? (The Td4 engine is in fact the M47 BMW engine).
 
d.eluard.parry@googlemail.com said:
I have read this most helpful message.

I have turbo problems. I was told weeks ago by specialists that the problem is the solenoid. However, they were, and now weeks later still are, unable to source a replacement. I am now told that LandRover do not have such a solenoid and that there is no such solenoid available from any landrover dealer in the country.

My TD4 continues to struggle at 3000 rpm in top gear and at lower speeds up hills.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

DEP
Click to expand...

Hi,

What country are you in?

SWBO has been cleaning up and I can't find the receipt with a part number on.

I'll have a look on the weekend.

Try asking your local Land-rover shop for a TD4 Boost Control Valve.

Dave
 
Hi,

I have just had one fitted last week under warrenty, so they are certainly not unavailable.
Part number is STC4198 or 4188 - memory a bit fuzzy after a few bevvys :)

When I rang my local Hartwell, they didn't have one in stock, but said Hartwell LR in Leicester had some...

Cheers

d.
 
hi i had that prob it was caused by the turbo overpresherizing there is a canister on the rhs of your motor attached to the vacuum hose on your motor assuming it is a td4 there is a small pipe that runs under the motor cover alongside the injectors etc it goes down the rhs of the motor and attaches to the pressure switch thingy that operates the turbo take this pipe of and check it for holes mine was ok but it was so worn it was kinking and sucking flat i replaced it with a 1.5m length of injector return hose i begged of the local garage as he had a big roll of it ,i re rooted the new hose allonge the bulkhead to give it a easy life and the problem was fixed if this fails check the turbo linkage has not fell to bits if this is ok replace the pressure switch for the turbo and its small filter aprox £40 hope this helps ian
ps lr wanted £1000 for a new turbo or £500 for a garret
hope this helps it is a bit old and it may have been done ian​
 
Hi guys
so at the end of the day does anybody know the answer to the loss of power at 70mph /turbo cutting out problem.
iv read all the posts on both threads and am still no the wiser please remember im thick
iv already had all the injectors replaced (was told that was the problem) , both turbo hoses replaced and yet the problem continues its all right for a few days please people help :praise:
 
ray abbott said:
Hi guys
so at the end of the day does anybody know the answer to the loss of power at 70mph /turbo cutting out problem.
iv read all the posts on both threads and am still no the wiser please remember im thick
iv already had all the injectors replaced (was told that was the problem) , both turbo hoses replaced and yet the problem continues its all right for a few days please people help :praise:
Click to expand...

Hi, on mine it turned out to be the boost control solenoid after having spent a fortune on other parts, seems no two are the same and different failures give similar results.

atvb Paul.
 
i had the same problem with mine it was 1 of the vains in the turbo sticking closed which was why it only did it higher up the rev range higher speed my local specialist took the turbo off cleaned it out it was just gunked up with carbon deposits fitted it back together runs sweet as a nut now !!!!!!!!!!! fingers crossed lol .

my symptoms were it would be ok to 65-70 then just stop there wouldnt go higher come to a hill and the speed would just drop off down to about 50 then it would be ok again or driving at 50 come to a hill put my foot down top go and nothing .

hope this helps

paul:crazy_driver::crazy_driver::crazy_driver:
 
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