Joezeppy

Joezeppy

Member
my alternator sheared the top two fixing bolts and left the stubs in the mounting bracket. its up on stands in my drive its taken me 3 days to remove every thing so i could repair it had to take bkt off and drill and use stud extractor so i can bolt alternator back on.enough said on the job. reason its taken so long is i am now 71 years old and like to keep the old beast on the road my self but this has taken its toll on the old body .every thing done except the serpentine belt i just dont seem to be able to fit if any one is close and could help me with it i would be so grateful .i live in WYKE IN BRADFORD WEST YORKSHIRE.heres hoping some one can help.thanks in advance to our great members of a great club .
 
Hope someone comes along, well done on sorting the alternator mount.

Bit too far for me from Devon else I'd be round in a shot!!

Secre is the right size ring spanner on the tensioner 15/16 af. Then pack the spanner against the chassis to prevent it sliding off. The nut is thin and soft and won't stand rounding!!

Come on local YORKIES!!
 
thanks for replying i tried a 24mm couldnt get the right purchase on it is there a diagram of which way the belt goes around the pulleys thats where my problem lies.finding it a hard job on my own.cheers again my friend for your response.
 
24mm is too big, you will round the bolt head off as it is so shallow.
Old 15/16 inch AF fits well, flat ring spanner. You may need a tube on the spanner as it is tight ! Also, don't put your fingers between belt and any pulley in case teh spanner slips and takes your pinkies off!!
There is a picture of how the belt runs on this site, I will try and locate it for you.
 
Replacing_belt__Pagina_1.jpg

Here you go - ignore the word DYNAMO ! Think it got lost in translation !
 
thanks buddy thats a great pic of what i need to know of course i dont have a 15/16 spanner i will try and borrow one.this should be fun tomorrow.
 
Make a small wooden wedge out of wood. Fit spanner and drive wedge between spanner head and chassis rail. About 1/2 inch thick from memory.

Last thing you want is knackered bolt head.

Also, look at the diagram and work out which way to turn the spanner, wrong way may unscrew the lock bolt through the tensioner. Again, from memory, I think you push spanner handle towards front of car.
 
thankyou once again Andy i will put these tips to good use tomorrow fingers crossed for a trouble free job. cheers Joe.
 
i got a quote of £76 from a mobile mechanic to fit the belt said he had to supply the belt so as to guarantee his work car is all set up all he has to do is fit it. im a pensioner so money is a little tight do you think this is a fair price for the work thats needed. i may have to try again to do it my self other wise all the work i struggled to do these last few days will be a waste of time so wish me luck tomorrow the diagram of where the belt goes on the pulleys is very good so thanks again for that Andy.
 
Joezeppy said:
i got a quote of £76 from a mobile mechanic to fit the belt said he had to supply the belt so as to guarantee his work car is all set up all he has to do is fit it. im a pensioner so money is a little tight do you think this is a fair price for the work thats needed. i may have to try again to do it my self other wise all the work i struggled to do these last few days will be a waste of time so wish me luck tomorrow the diagram of where the belt goes on the pulleys is very good so thanks again for that Andy.
Click to expand...
Well it depends on whether the mechanic needs to remove and refit the undertray whether $150 is a rip off or not. If it's just fitting a belt then surely that is a 10 minute job. If the undertray needs removing and fitting, then that may take it up to 1/2 a day's work :D
 
Tray can stay on. Three 10mm bolts to take splash panel off.

Op has already done all the prep. 15mins tops and about 15 quid for the belt.
 
Joezeppy said:
i got a quote of £76 from a mobile mechanic to fit the belt said he had to supply the belt so as to guarantee his work car is all set up all he has to do is fit it.
Click to expand...

That does sound excessive for what is effectively 15 minutes work, unless the belt is a genuine one, which would account for half that cost.
 
managed after a long struggle to finally get the new belt on ,the beast roared back into life on Friday morning and is doing every thing it should do.it is now back in my good books after too many days of cursing and swearing .Next job rear silencer hope that goes a lot better
 
Joezeppy said:
thanks for kind remarks Andy .i have been looking at the Freelander 2 they look a very nice beast,if i can find an HSE Auto at a decent price with a no insult part ex i might just try one.
Click to expand...

The FL2 is a good upgrade from the FL1, having just done that myself. I went for a nice condition SE myself, with a faulty engine, as it's easier to fix an engine that bodywork.

I've only driven it 100 miles, but it's very comfortable and quite, and economical too, but mine is a manual.

It lacks the character of the FL1 though, and feels rather sterile, much like our family Mazda CX5, but as a form of transport, its pretty nice.
 
Thanks for all the advice on here guys. Just removed my alternator and made a 'tool'. Cut down a 24mm socket and welded it to a bit of old metal I had. I can confirm from below the car, you move the lever towards the front (anticlockwise).
 
Nodge68 said:
The FL2 is a good upgrade from the FL1, having just done that myself. I went for a nice condition SE myself, with a faulty engine, as it's easier to fix an engine that bodywork.

I've only driven it 100 miles, but it's very comfortable and quite, and economical too, but mine is a manual.

It lacks the character of the FL1 though, and feels rather sterile, much like our family Mazda CX5, but as a form of transport, its pretty nice.
Click to expand...
:eek: Give me a bit of bodywork any day compared to what you've been through.
 
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