andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Used it for years. Meets the spec and a fraction of the price!!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I use Carlube ATF-U in the Jatco box, which far exceeds the spec of N402, and D3 for that matter!
The Jatco isn't as fussy as LR would have you believe, D2 or D3 being perfectly acceptable. What kills the box (and any other) is the silly extended fluid changes.
If you're doing annually or even bi-annually changes, then pretty much any D2 or D3 will work just fine.
I actually used D2 as an intermediate flushing fluid, as it's cheap enough to used for a month or so, before refilling with something better, which is my preferred ATF-U.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
This afternoon popped the new tank cradle and subframe on then built up both sides with arms, hubs, driveshafts etc.
Photos tomorrow but pleased with the way it is going.
Just the refurbed vcu and prop and handbrake cables to fit.
Must remember to put oil in the diff!!!
Photos tomorrow but pleased with the way it is going.
Just the refurbed vcu and prop and handbrake cables to fit.
Must remember to put oil in the diff!!!
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Some photos for your entertainment and delight !
Left wheel arch undersealed and new components fitted.
Right wheel arch undersealed and new components fitted.
New tank cradle and refurbished subframe.
Just made up new short brake pipes and these with new flexis will be attached and brakes bled.
Handbrake cables will be fitted with new split collars - will photograph as it looks like it might be a good solution to rotting cable clips used by LR.
Then, VCU and prop on, liners in wheel arches, wheels on, drop to ground and torque up.
Need to get it off the ramp to allow the TD4 sport to come in to see how many jelly babies there are hiding in the gear change and to find out why you have to crush the pile of the carpet to get the clutch to disengage !!
I think a clutch mod to master cylinder (prototyped earlier) is in order if the slave is good. But maybe another thread for the silver blue Sport.
Left wheel arch undersealed and new components fitted.
Right wheel arch undersealed and new components fitted.
New tank cradle and refurbished subframe.
Just made up new short brake pipes and these with new flexis will be attached and brakes bled.
Handbrake cables will be fitted with new split collars - will photograph as it looks like it might be a good solution to rotting cable clips used by LR.
Then, VCU and prop on, liners in wheel arches, wheels on, drop to ground and torque up.
Need to get it off the ramp to allow the TD4 sport to come in to see how many jelly babies there are hiding in the gear change and to find out why you have to crush the pile of the carpet to get the clutch to disengage !!
I think a clutch mod to master cylinder (prototyped earlier) is in order if the slave is good. But maybe another thread for the silver blue Sport.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Looking at the photos it deserves a stainless exhaust at some point - it has the sport stainless rear box but it looks SOOO rusty now!!!
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Nearly there with the TD4.
Today fitted replacement brake pipes, hoses, dropped it to the ground, short run around, onto ground based ramps and torqued everything up.
While it is nice and dry I am going to treat it to my special waxoyl recipe while int he workshop. Waxoyl, white spirit and clean engine oil mix!! Yum.
Should be finished later today.
Today fitted replacement brake pipes, hoses, dropped it to the ground, short run around, onto ground based ramps and torqued everything up.
While it is nice and dry I am going to treat it to my special waxoyl recipe while int he workshop. Waxoyl, white spirit and clean engine oil mix!! Yum.
Should be finished later today.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
The split collar handbrake back plate cable retainer mod worked a treat!
I aimed for 10mm or 3/8 inch.
Life might have been easier if I'd got 12mm or 1/2 inch as the screws were a bit short but all worked after a fiddle and wire brushing the rust off.
View inside the rear brake plate.
Did both sides the same.
I aimed for 10mm or 3/8 inch.
Life might have been easier if I'd got 12mm or 1/2 inch as the screws were a bit short but all worked after a fiddle and wire brushing the rust off.
View inside the rear brake plate.
Did both sides the same.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Finished!!
Pumped my special mix wayoyl into every orifice known to man.
Note to self, watch for holes near face when pumping wax mix at high pressure into other end!!
Put about 3 L into it. It is now dripping gently onto an old plastic sheet.
It is solidifying fairly quickly so should be good in a day or too.
Hopefully the TD4 will last another few years now.
Just the drivers seat to replace now, will use a good leather one from another donor as no one has come back to me from seat surgeons. They were asked to quote for replacement covers but despite chasing since Oct last year no one has bothered to reply with a quote.
Pumped my special mix wayoyl into every orifice known to man.
Note to self, watch for holes near face when pumping wax mix at high pressure into other end!!
Put about 3 L into it. It is now dripping gently onto an old plastic sheet.
It is solidifying fairly quickly so should be good in a day or too.
Hopefully the TD4 will last another few years now.
Just the drivers seat to replace now, will use a good leather one from another donor as no one has come back to me from seat surgeons. They were asked to quote for replacement covers but despite chasing since Oct last year no one has bothered to reply with a quote.
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andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Yes that makes it less 'time off the road'.
I bought a donor, stripped off what I needed, bought the new bits and then did the rebuild in a much shorter time.
Donor gives loads of useful spares and works out the cheapest way of buying suspension, subframe, trim, clips etc....
I bought a donor, stripped off what I needed, bought the new bits and then did the rebuild in a much shorter time.
Donor gives loads of useful spares and works out the cheapest way of buying suspension, subframe, trim, clips etc....
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Many photos in thread above. What would you like more photos of?
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
No not really. Put a replacement engine in when my crankshaft broke!! There is a thread on that with photos if you want!!
Engine bay is quite clean actually. Just an egr mod and regular servicing.
Put the rest of the interior back in today.
Hopefully sealed the leak into the boot box but we'll see!!
Engine bay is quite clean actually. Just an egr mod and regular servicing.
Put the rest of the interior back in today.
Hopefully sealed the leak into the boot box but we'll see!!
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Searched and found it! Bit cryptic as it covers a rebuild of a V6 as well.
Lots of photos for you though !
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-completed-v6-completed-rebuild-projects.333116/
Lots of photos for you though !
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-completed-v6-completed-rebuild-projects.333116/
