PRO · Dec 1, 2019

Hi everyone, been talking to andyfreelandy for the past hour and I think it's a better idea to ask here, maybe somebody can shed some light on my issue.
I seem to have a serious power loss, need to switch like mad to get to 50 mph, 1st gear is dead flat and second is alrightish, 3rd is so-so... can barely reach 70 and I think 0-100 is like 20+

So far this car has recon turbo/injectors and new lp pump(pierburg), map sensor, turbo solenoid, egr solenoid, glow plugs(bosch), air filter.
All hoses including the boost ones are checked, no split or leak. EGR valve pulled out and checked with pressure gauge.
Not a single drop of fluid anywhere.

The MAF was also replaced with land rover original part, which is a bosch with bmw mark meaning is oem: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322822454278
Suspicious price but the seller is not suspicious at all nor the box it came in.

Comparing mine vs Andy's mine does seem to have reduced air flow, for some reasons.
Attaching what I can read with wow wurth, maybe somebody can give me an idea where to look further, please.

andyfreelandy · Dec 1, 2019

Yes my airflow was 590 for same revs. Suggested dis MAF and try with default values to eliminate that.

PRO · Dec 1, 2019

actually will do that now, be right back

PRO · Dec 1, 2019

Right, disconnecting the MAF "reports" 512 mg/injection and -40 on inlet temp, I am sure because of the integrated temp sensor.
Therefore, current maf reads lower than generated.
Silly question could this be because I could not and did not screw the back torx on that plastic air filter cover? might get SOME air there...
I really doubt the 3rd and most promising MAF is faulty.

Arctic2 · Dec 1, 2019

The air filter cover must be just that air tight, so make sure all the Allen key bolts are secured, as you say I doubt the MAF is going to be the problem after changing it for a third time.

PRO · Dec 2, 2019

well that last screw won't go in, even through I do guide it properly in that left channel.
is going to be a challenge for tomorrow but I won't sleep until this is sorted.
this makes me feel bad for returning the bosch one to rtg

2late now.

Arctic2 · Dec 2, 2019

PRO said:
well that last screw won't go in, even through I do guide it properly in that left channel.
is going to be a challenge for tomorrow but I won't sleep until this is sorted.
this makes me feel bad for returning the bosch one to rtg 2late now.

What you need to do is remove the air filter cover off the car completely, check around the edge on the side of the MAF as sometimes the channel on the end gets damages as in the photo's below, remove the damage part with some pliers, then try fitting it again, always do the left Allen bolt first the one at the back in it's recess, then the opposite corner followed by the top ones.

1

2

3

Air filter cover off the car.

4

corner bolt.

5

MAF end recess bolt.

6

Top bolts

7

Half circle that fits over the filter end top.

8

Rear corner near MAF check its not damaged.

9

Damage must be removed

10

cut out the bent channel

11

nice clean edge ready to fit at rear.

12

Offer the cover to the filter case, starter nearest the drivers side, lower it on.

13

once you feel you have it on its channel right, start with the recess bolt so it grips a little.

14

The go to opposite corner, nip it up

15

Do the top ones nip them up

16

Finally do the last turns to tighten again rear first & so on.

17

Sometimes these go on it about a couple of minutes, other times it can take 20 minutes to line the cover up.

PRO · Dec 2, 2019

Thank you Arctic2, I will give it a go today.
Can this make such difference in car performance?

andyfreelandy · Dec 2, 2019

I agree that it needs to be fitted right. Mine, however, runs perfectly well without the housing on at all. Test runs after engine work have confirmed that. Manifold leaks is another issue and they do affect the engine performance.

Nodge68 · Dec 2, 2019

PRO said:
Right, disconnecting the MAF "reports" 512 mg/injection and -40 on inlet temp, I am sure because of the integrated temp sensor.

A -40 shows the EDC can't read the intake temperature, which of course it can't if the MAF is disconnected.

PRO · Dec 3, 2019

Air filter housing fitted no air leaks there, it should not affect that bad anyway.
I am going to HD3 to put the hawkeye in, as far as I remember we can see more stuff there.
I suspect the mighty synergy will be my only option.

PRO · Dec 9, 2019

I have found the issue today. Basically, is not the maf... the turbo wastegate keeps moving up and down, dropping the pressure I think.
Tomorrow I will check the hoses and vacuum, and perhaps replace the turbo solenoid although the one I have is new.
The wastegate "arm" goes up, then drops goes up again and so on. My car wizzard says the turbo is not kicking almost at all...
I need to source another wastegate from a failed turbo perhaps and replace it with care, if my issue is not in the hoses etc.

andyfreelandy · Dec 9, 2019

That is good news. Glad I wasn't too far out when I said..
'Sounds like the turbo boost is not working. If the MAP is new, then you can check all vacuum pipes from the black tank by the battery to the turbo solenoid - down by drivers feet but fitted to engine. Ideally get someone to rev up whilst watching the actuator arm to the turbo. I had one with similar problems and it was the small black reservoir tank that had a broken pipe connector.'

Close up by changing thread to Solved, this helps others following with similar symptoms.

PRO · Dec 9, 2019

map is new and I get good pressure values, if it would be failed I would get crap readings. I am hoping not to be the wastegate itself, hell to replace that with turbo on car. Maybe some dirt got somewhere and that is it.

PRO · Dec 11, 2019

After replacing the wastegate which seemed to be my issue, I have now sold the car and will never get another freelander or british designed car.
Still have loads of bits for sale, which I will soon, here ebay and or marketplace.
Will still keep notifications on this forum and pop a comment when I can.

Nodge68 · Dec 11, 2019

PRO said:
will never get another freelander or british designed car.

The engine and most other parts of the Freelander that go wrong aren't British, but German. In fact the British designed and made stuff is more reliable than the German crap it inherited from BMW.

PRO · Dec 11, 2019

That is true. Had the k series as well.. Nothing bmw there.
It is of course not worse than any car of that time. But past experiences with jaguar as well made me reach the conclusion with british cars.
Good cars but zero tolerance to negligence and that is all they get.

teddywood1 · Dec 11, 2019

mine was like that after the vacuum pipes were put on wrong .the number 8 pipe in the picture MUST go to the back of the vacuum chamber and not to the front it does look as though it should go to the front but no and number 12 goes down the valve on the turbo hope this helps you.

Nodge68 · Dec 11, 2019

PRO said:
Had the k series as well.. Nothing bmw there.

A few bits are from BMW, but mostly the K series was a Rover engine.

PRO said:
It is of course not worse than any car of that time.

That's very true.

PRO said:
But past experiences with jaguar as well made me reach the conclusion with british cars.

They're getting better than Jags of old.

PRO said:
Good cars but zero tolerance to negligence and that is all they get.

That's the same with many vehicles from a similar period in time.

I find that all vehicles have issues, some more than others. I find that BMW are particularly poor if neglected, yet VW aren't bothered, unless it's the V6 engines.

I tend to stick to the Freelander myself. Sure it does have some issues, but rectification is normally quick and easy, and the cost of parts is modest.

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