That's definitely running on 3 maybe 3 1/2 cylinders.
Definitely worth getting the compression checked.
High and low pressure fuel pumps look fine. The MAP is showing a lower value than I would have expected. I would expect to see 100Kpa (atmospheric pressure) at idle and more as the revs increase.
Is the EGR valve still functioning? If so, is the inlet manifold clear of sooty goop? A blocked inlet manifold will lower the dynamic compression ratio.
A blocked MAP sensor port will give an incorrect MAP value.
 
I will get a compression test done asap.. egr valve was bypassed before I got the car, don't know if inlet manifold was cleaned at the time, or if it would benefit from a clean now. Possibly too many £'s need throwing at it now.
 
searchengine said:
I will get a compression test done asap.. egr valve was bypassed before I got the car, don't know if inlet manifold was cleaned at the time, or if it would benefit from a clean now. Possibly too many £'s need throwing at it now.
Click to expand...
The cleanliness of the inlet manifold can be checked in a few minutes. It comes off in 10 minutes so is easy checked. I've only ever see one manifold completely blocked, and it was only the swirl port that was blocked. No 1 is the most likely cylinder to get blocked though, due to lower gas speed at that end of the manifold.
I would say you need to prove or eliminate low compression on No 1 first. Then depending on that outcome of that, start questioning the injection system.

It does give symptoms of low compression, because the misfire goes at higher revs. The reason for this is, As the revs rise, boost pressure increases, filling the cylinder enough increase compression pressure, restoring firing to normal.
So more investigation is going to be needed.
If it does turn out to be the engine, then a working second hand replacement can be found from a reasonable sum of cash.
 
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Nodge68...
I will remove the inlet manifold and give it a good clean and check the gaskets for nicks or splits before refitting. Looking at other threads apparently the best way to do this is to remove and soak with oven cleaner or alternative de-greaser overnight and use a bottle brush to breakdown gunk and flush to finish. When re-fitted, if issue not resolved on to compression test.
 
searchengine said:
Nodge68...
I will remove the inlet manifold and give it a good clean and check the gaskets for nicks or splits before refitting. Looking at other threads apparently the best way to do this is to remove and soak with oven cleaner or alternative de-greaser overnight and use a bottle brush to breakdown gunk and flush to finish. When re-fitted, if issue not resolved on to compression test.
Click to expand...
I use kerosene to clean the inlet manifold. It cheap and plentiful, as I have over 1000 litres of the suff in a tank in the back garden!
Oven cleaner or any powerful degreaser will do the job. ;)
 
I suppose it's possible that the previous owner blanked the egr and didn't clean anything at the time. This could have dislodged some gunk that's worked its way into the manifold and would explain @Nodge68 theory. Fingers crossed it is this, as it would prove cheap and easy to fix.
I use Mr muscle oven cleaner. Try not to loose the orange gaskets that are attached to the manifold. These are reusable.
Mike
 
Guys...
Thanks for your continued input and recommendations... I will get the inlet manifold off a bit later today. I prey it's filthy and that a good clean will help. I will let you know how it turns out.
 
GrumpyGel...
Thanks for the heads up, I will be extra careful around the gunk... her indoors would not be best pleased if I bring any in the house. :)
 
I assume the garage that fitted recon injector had the inlet manifold off to do the job. The first thing I noticed when taking the manifold off was that the bottom nuts were all overtight as I had to use 'gorilla' strength to undo them... but I was astonished at the top bolts as only 3 of them were tight, the others were not even what I would call hand tight. Inlet manifold was not sealed properly. I will clean and refit next. Pictures below.
 

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GrumpyGel said:
Would it not be blowing it out? ie under pressure from the turbo.

I'm not sure that would give the problems described because the problems appear to be a low revs where it doesn't need much oxygen in the cylinder.
Click to expand...
Some people are soooo picky!
Yes, alright, blowing. But it's still not right;)
Mike
 
Yeah, not shocked about air blowing from no.1 and expect it was leaking from others as 5 of the top 8 bolts were not even finger tight, Also with manifold off found a 4mm vacuum hose that has burnt thru (the one next to hose that goes to egr blank).

Cleaning not going to plan, asked the wife to run into shop and get me 3 or 4 tins of mr. muscle. She told me they didn't have, but got me alternative that was oven/barbeque cleaner. I said that's fine that'll do, but didn't look at it until we had returned home in the car and I had stripped the manifold off. When I asked for the cleaner to be handed out, the wife produced 3 bottles of 'liquid cleaner. Need to get my daughter to get a few tins of Mr. Muscle (foam) at Asda and drop it off. lol.
 
searchengine said:
Yeah, not shocked about air blowing from no.1 and expect it was leaking from others as 5 of the top 8 bolts were not even finger tight, Also with manifold off found a 4mm vacuum hose that has burnt thru (the one next to hose that goes to egr blank).

Cleaning not going to plan, asked the wife to run into shop and get me 3 or 4 tins of mr. muscle. She told me they didn't have, but got me alternative that was oven/barbeque cleaner. I said that's fine that'll do, but didn't look at it until we had returned home in the car and I had stripped the manifold off. When I asked for the cleaner to be handed out, the wife produced 3 bottles of 'liquid cleaner. Need to get my daughter to get a few tins of Mr. Muscle (foam) at Asda and drop it off. lol.
Click to expand...

All the manifold bolts need nipping up and a bit more. They definitely don't need to be wound up silly tight.
I'm not convinced that the loose bolts or goop in the manifold are to blame though. I've had TD4's running much better than yours, with much more goop blocking the manifold runners and inlet ports.
While cleaning the manifold, make sure you remove the MAP sensor and make sure it's port is clean. Don't probe at the port though, or you'll damage the membrane inside. I find spraying WD40 across the port, is enough to clean it. I believe the foaming ovan cleaner is best but I use kerosene, which is very runny.
 
Nodge68...
I will take care with the Map sensor, and clean as per your recommendations. I will pay close attention to the condition of the rubber gaskets and clean them carefully. I will also check the grooves they sit in and thoroughly clean to make sure no crusty gunk stops a good seal, and will make sure the mating surfaces are well cleaned before re-fitting the manifold and tightening the bolts to nipped up and a bit more.

I'm not convinced the goop in the manifold is cause of my issues, but the slackness of the top bolts give me a slither of hope that escaping air may well be a factor.

Hoping to have the manifold back on the car late afternoon tomorrow, and I will advise status.
 
Inlet manifold still soaking in oven cleaner, but in the meantime...

1. Replaced HPFP o'ring and gasket (arrived today)
2. Replaced HP Fuel Rail Sensor (previously fitted update wire harness)
3. Replaced leaking vacuum hose (next to egr bypass hose)
4. Replaced Fuel injector wire harness with one from salvage yard (just in case of intermittent/weak signals)
5. Removed MAP sensor from inlet manifold and cleaned.

Fuel injector leak test kit arrived today, so I will test injectors tomorrow after refit of inlet manifold.
 
Inlet manifold cleaned and all parts back on car.... still not running right.

Injector leak test done and results are a bit baffling... icarsoft diagnostic scanner continues to report injector no.1 at fault, but makes no mention of injector no.3.

Pictures of leak test attached (no.1 injector is the recon).
 

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