Rye

Member
Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a 06 td4 sport and I've had issues starting from day 1. It's been to a diesel injection specialist twice now and I honestly believe they don't know what the fault is they've changed 2 injectors and replaced my battery but still it struggles/ fails on occasion, it doesn't seam to matter if it's warm or cold, the diagnostics arn't showing anything, any ideas?
 
Does anyone have a TD4 that starts OK?

I'm sure there's been more TD4 starting issue threads on here of late than there were TD4s produced.

Does anyone have the will to live enough still to find a thread that answers this and make it a stickey or put it in the technical archive - which I presume is what MHM describes as the CFAQ.

At least then when OP's fail to do the simplest of searches or just look down the Freelander thread list a tiny way - we could at least have a URL to point them to.

@Rye are you sure its a Freelander 2? If you really believe its a Freelander 2, cos its probably a Freelander 1, stick a pic up of it.
 
Does anyone have a TD4 that starts OK?

I'm sure there's been more TD4 starting issue threads on here of late than there were TD4s produced.


Define OK.

Mine starts fine, but does require a couple of seconds cranking. No longer than the 2 year old family Ford Kuga cranks for though.
Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a 06 td4 sport and I've had issues starting from day 1. It's been to a diesel injection specialist twice now and I honestly believe they don't know what the fault is they've changed 2 injectors and replaced my battery but still it struggles/ fails on occasion, it doesn't seam to matter if it's warm or cold, the diagnostics arn't showing anything, any ideas?

It's very common for the high pressure fuel pump regulator O rings to split. This will make starting difficult or impossible. The fuel rail sensor wiring is another potential cause of non starting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rye
Does anyone have a TD4 that starts OK?

I'm sure there's been more TD4 starting issue threads on here of late than there were TD4s produced.

Does anyone have the will to live enough still to find a thread that answers this and make it a stickey or put it in the technical archive - which I presume is what MHM describes as the CFAQ.

At least then when OP's fail to do the simplest of searches or just look down the Freelander thread list a tiny way - we could at least have a URL to point them to.

@Rye are you sure its a Freelander 2? If you really believe its a Freelander 2, cos its probably a Freelander 1, stick a pic up of it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0409.JPG
    IMG_0409.JPG
    274.9 KB · Views: 275
Td
hope this helps? Just hoping for some ideas before I have a go myself, can't afford to take it to the garage again, especially as they can't find what is wrong with it, only other option is to get rid of the car, but I don't really want to do that, everything else is fine except for the starting issue
 
Define OK.
Mine starts fine, but does require a couple of seconds cranking. No longer than the 2 year old family Ford Kuga cranks for though.


It's very common for the high pressure fuel pump regulator O rings to split. This will make starting difficult or impossible. The fuel rail sensor wiring is another potential cause of non starting.

Its a, very nice looking, F1. Not an F2.

Follow Nodge's suggestions.

Thanks for the help, are these something a novice can attempt or would you recommend a mechanic?
 
sounds like broken high pressure fuel rail sensor wiring most have had the repair harness from lr

Thanks mate, that sounds expensive! I will check the fuel pump regulator first and hope that it solves it, don't think I can afford to send it to LR, thanks for the input though mate, I'm a novice and need all the help I can get
 
that sounds expensive!
unplug the sensor and give the contacts a good clean
water ingress there is a known td4 issue
be only millivolts n up to 5v thru that sensor
little bit of grime/corrosion causes umpteen running issues
[ corrosion can work its way into the harness wiring as well]
get some 'contralube-770' ..
use on electrical connections
 
Thanks mate, that sounds expensive! I will check the fuel pump regulator first and hope that it solves it, don't think I can afford to send it to LR, thanks for the input though mate, I'm a novice and need all the help I can get

The rail sensor overly harness is about £40. If you can't clean up the contacts on the current plugs.
 
The rail sensor overly harness is about £40. If you can't clean up the contacts on the current plugs.

Thanks nodge, after reading the thread put on by kernoWsvenski it seems this could be the fault cheers, I will have a look, I will have to get some help though, I've never touched a car before, luckily my neighbour used to be a mechanic. I'll let you know how it goes
 
Cheers mate, going to try and clean it first, see if it's any better, once I know it's this though I will get a new part, do you think I should change the sensor at the same time?

LR recommend replacing the sensor with the later part number version. This has contacts more resistant to corrosion.
There is a kit of both harness and replacement sensor available.
Check your current sensor and harness first, before splashing out on unnecessary new parts.
 
LR recommend replacing the sensor with the later part number version. This has contacts more resistant to corrosion.
There is a kit of both harness and replacement sensor available.
Check your current sensor and harness first, before splashing out on unnecessary new parts.
Hi all,
Finally got to look at the motor today, noticed that the wiring loom has already been chanced, but I cleaned it anyway. I've noticed that the fuel pump doesn't cut off so can't be reaching pressure, my question is, is there any way of testing the sensor before removal? I notice a new one is quite costly, or can I just replace just the o ring? If so a link to a shop &a part would be appreciated, every time I search the part I get a different parts number
 
Change the high pressure fuel pump regulator O ring. This costs a few quid and often solves non starting issues.
You could do with looking at the live data so you can check for fuel delivery pressure anomalies.
 

Similar threads