I sprayed some easy start into the air intake (just small sprays at a time) to fire the engine and pull the diesel through, only took a couple of trys
 
Refurbished injector fitted and started up easy but a bit smokey. Took it for a long run and it ran good with no smoke. Left overnight and still lumpy tick over and smoke by not to bad. Pulled away and smoke clears. Stopped after a minute and held revs at 2k and lumpy running and clouds of blueish smoke. Drove on no smoke and stopped when u to temp and held revs a 2k and no smoke and no lumpy running. So still smoke and lumpy running when cold. Seems a common problem with no one with an answer.
 
Refurbished injector fitted and started up easy but a bit smokey. Took it for a long run and it ran good with no smoke. Left overnight and still lumpy tick over and smoke by not to bad. Pulled away and smoke clears. Stopped after a minute and held revs at 2k and lumpy running and clouds of blueish smoke. Drove on no smoke and stopped when u to temp and held revs a 2k and no smoke and no lumpy running. So still smoke and lumpy running when cold. Seems a common problem with no one with an answer.

Try cleaning the air in take temperature sensor iv had similar issues with mine
 
Refurbished injector fitted and started up easy but a bit smokey. Took it for a long run and it ran good with no smoke. Left overnight and still lumpy tick over and smoke by not to bad. Pulled away and smoke clears. Stopped after a minute and held revs at 2k and lumpy running and clouds of blueish smoke. Drove on no smoke and stopped when u to temp and held revs a 2k and no smoke and no lumpy running. So still smoke and lumpy running when cold. Seems a common problem with no one with an answer.

Hello Jim, Not been on here for a while so just seen this post. As your car stops smoking when 'warm/hot' it maybe that the injectors are not seated correctly, especially if someone has been in there before yourself. Think you mentioned doing all the necessary's regards new washers and o rings but I would check the injector clamps are secured...I did this with mine when I failed to clean the injectors(last ditch attempt before buying refurbed) but during the rebuild missed a nut on one of the injector securing clamps..didn't make much difference to the running of my TD4 but I'm usually fairly methodical and still 'feck'd it up'...Did read somewhere that running poorly after an injector swap is common and it may take driving under varying conditions for them to settle down.....or you may also find that there is another injector in the process of failing (or the rest?) Hope things settle down for you..
 
This morning the weather was a good bit milder and the smoke looked more blueish. The intercooler hoses had a bit of oil in it more than I remember my previous td4 had. I am now thinking it's pooling overnight and first start it is being burnt off but not sure about lumpy tick over. Another thing I noticed tonight after work when I started it up and floored the accelerator and it took 2to3 seconds before the revs started to increase. Not sure if this is normal. Once warm no issues at all. When oil is blown into pcv where dose it drain into, just another thought.
 
This morning the weather was a good bit milder and the smoke looked more blueish. The intercooler hoses had a bit of oil in it more than I remember my previous td4 had. I am now thinking it's pooling overnight and first start it is being burnt off but not sure about lumpy tick over. Another thing I noticed tonight after work when I started it up and floored the accelerator and it took 2to3 seconds before the revs started to increase. Not sure if this is normal. Once warm no issues at all. When oil is blown into pcv where dose it drain into, just another thought.

Hello Jim, Firstly have you serviced the PCV/changed the filter etc or do you have a BMW 'vortex' style upgrade. Where it goes exactly would be down to Nodge or someone who has 'fiddled' with the TD4 more regularly...the 'filtered' oil recovered would go back to the engine but any that gets past the filter, I'm not 100% sure...probably into the hoses you mentioned...My TD4 has a similar symptom whether that's a major issue I'm not sure..
 
Hi mollynomad, yes it has the bmw pcv, egr bypass, silicon hoses. I think the previous owner has had a go at curing this and that's why he sold it. I test drove it warm and it goes good. Thinking if it had anything to do with the other injectors it would show up when warm also.
 
your lumpy tick over could be the high pressure sensor on the end of the fuel rail if you get a new one be sure you have the right one as there are two
 
Hi mollynomad, yes it has the bmw pcv, egr bypass, silicon hoses. I think the previous owner has had a go at curing this and that's why he sold it. I test drove it warm and it goes good. Thinking if it had anything to do with the other injectors it would show up when warm also.
Sometimes fitting the vortex breather can induce some oil into the inlet tract. I don't like the later vortex type myself, preferring the fluffy cotton wool filter instead.
 
Checked intercooler hoses after it had been stood for 3 hours and the oil had pooled a few places. Does anyone know how the oil gets into the hoses and would it be possible to fit a catch tank
 
Checked intercooler hoses after it had been stood for 3 hours and the oil had pooled a few places. Does anyone know how the oil gets into the hoses and would it be possible to fit a catch tank

The oil gets into the induction pipework from the turbo. The oil is thrown into the air stream as a fine mist when the turbo is spinning.
This problem gets worse as the turbo seal wears with mileage. A catch tank won't help, but a complete clean out of the induction system will help for a bit.
 

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