crailman

New Member
Hi. My 2004 TD4 is idling roughly, keeps dropping revs and not smooth. Also seems very keen to stall. Done 120,000 miles, but full dealer service- one recently. Any ideas ? Has not been chipped ...yet. Could this help ?
 
Try unplugging your MAF which is a common issue, Crankcase breather (PCV) is another one. Which if your car has done 120K then i would do anyway. Easy to do.

Clean your egr and manifold and then unplug your EGR (see sticky thread) or you could always get an EGR bypass.
I am learning by experience myself and have done all this.
 
Injectors or possibly even crank sensor. No a chip wouldn't help disguise any problems, usually the exact opposite. Try a new fuel filter & running with Millers Powersport 4 Diesel additive to see if that helps before committing to more expensive courses of action.

Oh & as Mick says do that breather asap.
 
Get it on Testbook and watch cylinder compensation values,any cylinder with a positive value of more than 3 needs changing.
Very common,and another good reason not to bother with a BMW engine.Oh,and they can be a real git to remove.
 
Get it on Testbook and watch cylinder compensation values,any cylinder with a positive value of more than 3 needs changing.
Very common,and another good reason not to bother with a BMW engine.Oh,and they can be a real git to remove.


Yeah, I've heard some real horror stories about people having to scrap their heads because the injectors have totally "welded" themselves in.
 
Yeah, I've heard some real horror stories about people having to scrap their heads because the injectors have totally "welded" themselves in.
The trick is preventative maintainance, a squirt of penetrating oil round the injectors regularly and they slide out beautifully when necessary.
 
Thanks for the advice, been putting it off, but now running rough if it will start at all. Will have to do something now. Let you know result.
 
The trick is preventative maintainance, a squirt of penetrating oil round the injectors regularly and they slide out beautifully when necessary.

Sorry if I'm wrong but I understand the reason for the injectors not to come out is the layer of crap/grit which is carbonised at the inside on the injector. Would giving it regularly a squirt of WD40, ON THE OUTSIDE, be able to remove/avoid this inside building up ?? In other words does the penetrating oil really help or is it just a coïncidence Dan's came out without a problem ??
 
Sorry if I'm wrong but I understand the reason for the injectors not to come out is the layer of crap/grit which is carbonised at the inside on the injector. Would giving it regularly a squirt of WD40, ON THE OUTSIDE, be able to remove/avoid this inside building up ?? In other words does the penetrating oil really help or is it just a coïncidence Dan's came out without a problem ??


That's another reason I use the Millers as hopefully it'll help, though I'm not sure if it can clean up anything within the combustion zone.
 
A search will reveal unfortunate occasions when TD4 cylinder heads were scrapped due to damage caused whilst attempting to remove corroded injectors. A post by 'MING the merciless' some time ago showed that water dripping from leaking washer pipe connections and under bonnet condensation caused severe corrosion between the injectors and the cylinder head. A regular application of penetrating oil not WD40 around the injector bases solves the problem.
 
A search will reveal unfortunate occasions when TD4 cylinder heads were scrapped due to damage caused whilst attempting to remove corroded injectors. A post by 'MING the merciless' some time ago showed that water dripping from leaking washer pipe connections and under bonnet condensation caused severe corrosion between the injectors and the cylinder head. A regular application of penetrating oil not WD40 around the injector bases solves the problem.

Aha, to avoid the external sticking of the injectors against the engine block than ?? (I thought WD40 was penetrating oil ??:eek:)
 
I know mine was running rough just before fuel pump went on the low pressure in tank jobby. It was an intermittent fault thou. Normally when miles from anywhere
 
WD40 is a truly amazing general purpose lubricant/moisture dispersant which I use a lot, but true penetrating oils e.g PLUS GAS, ZX1 etc have the ability to be absorbed within the corroded metals over time.
 
See my new thread re tech bulletin 00052 before ripping out the injectors.

The parts cured a recent TD4 with those symptoms. (Maf & Mafam was tried first but didn't help)

Ron
 
Fixed at last, by independent Land Rover workshop. No. 3 injector shot, loom to fuel pressure sensor corroded - changed, fuel pressure sensor . Also changed engine breather filter ( can blow turbo seals ) and fuel filter. Cost £795 all in. Most I have spent on a vehicle since my Subaru Legacy blew the head gaskets. Must go and lie down now.
 
Fixed at last, by independent Land Rover workshop. No. 3 injector shot, loom to fuel pressure sensor corroded - changed, fuel pressure sensor . Also changed engine breather filter ( can blow turbo seals ) and fuel filter. Cost £795 all in. Most I have spent on a vehicle since my Subaru Legacy blew the head gaskets. Must go and lie down now.
They have a big front window ? I'd only work one day a week at those rates.....
 

Similar threads