zicotd4md

New Member
Hi all, got our first problem with our 52 plate td4 freelander. Only being used on mainly short journeys and has started to over run when ignition switched off mainly when the engine is cold?:eek: From what I've read and found on here as to what the possible cause could be, I'm thinking of changeing crank case filter for the BMW one (not sure if this has been done before) Also found some thick sluggy oil deposits on the oil cooler pipes and hoses, under the bonnet shut pannel drivers side? :confused: Would I be right in thinking that EGR and hoses have a build up of oilly carbon sludge? and need a good clean. Any thoughts and sensible advice would be very welcome :rolleyes: but please go easy on me as I'm a newbee;)
 
change the crank case breather as a matter of course, not expensive, but could well save your engine and/or turbo.

as for the hoses, they become porous with age, what you are seeing is seepage.

simple to replace, about £30 for the big one, about £14 for the little elbow one.

also might be worth looking in EGR and cleaning that out or fit a bypass.

good luck, welcome to the forum.
 
Hi all, got our first problem with our 52 plate td4 freelander. Only being used on mainly short journeys and has started to over run when ignition switched off mainly when the engine is cold?:eek: From what I've read and found on here as to what the possible cause could be, I'm thinking of changeing crank case filter for the BMW one (not sure if this has been done before) Also found some thick sluggy oil deposits on the oil cooler pipes and hoses, under the bonnet shut pannel drivers side? :confused: Would I be right in thinking that EGR and hoses have a build up of oilly carbon sludge? and need a good clean. Any thoughts and sensible advice would be very welcome :rolleyes: but please go easy on me as I'm a newbee;)
Hi,
I too have a td4 of the same vintage and over winter time have used it for shop and back and work and back with no long runs.
I had to change the intank fuel pump and since then it started to run on sometimes when switching off ign.Also mil came on when decelerating never when engine revving and under load and a lumpy tickover and smell of diesel from tail pipe.
I had it plugged into a reader and came up p1190 fuel rail pressure control, so i did the fuel filter , egr, crankcase breather ,rail pressure sensor etc but no improvement , so i kept a note on when the mil came on and it was getting less and less so added diesel injector cleaner to some shell v-power and went on a run of 100 miles , came back and it was a different car with no run on . So not sure if it had anything to do with short runs but it cant help the engine on just short runs , i think they need to be worked hard from time to time . ohh if you pull out the fuel relay from the drivers side fuse box does it stop ok , mine did ......

Hope this helps

Alan
Hope this helps
 
Go with what OP says and use a Decent Brand of fuel like Shell V Power and 200 ml of 2 stroke oil mixed in with the fuel.Will help smooth out the engine and less noise.
 
The fuel pressure regulator controls engine shut off so seems like it's sticking/faulty.
That would explain the code, mil light on overrun and why fuel system cleaner helped in Alan's case...
 
Thanks for the replies I will be following Optimus Prime's advice over the next few weeks.
Great web site with all this experience on tap:biggrin1:
 
i had this problem,on my td4 engine running on after turning the key off,it gradually got worse and put the mil light on,i plugged it in to my trusty laptop and scanned it and got a fuel rail pressure error,thats not the sensor on the fuel rail,the one that causes this is on the back of the high pressure pump which shuts the fuel on n off ,its held on with 2 torx bolts,once you get the inlet manifold off n out of the way you can see it,its a bit of a sod to get the torx bit in but can be done,you dont have to buy the whole fuel solonoid i bought a repair kit off fleabay for 8 quid that consists of a metal gasket an o ring and a fibre seal,took me about n hour to do it,not difficult at all,cars running fine now.
 
i had this problem,on my td4 engine running on after turning the key off,it gradually got worse and put the mil light on,i plugged it in to my trusty laptop and scanned it and got a fuel rail pressure error,thats not the sensor on the fuel rail,the one that causes this is on the back of the high pressure pump which shuts the fuel on n off ,its held on with 2 torx bolts,once you get the inlet manifold off n out of the way you can see it,its a bit of a sod to get the torx bit in but can be done,you dont have to buy the whole fuel solonoid i bought a repair kit off fleabay for 8 quid that consists of a metal gasket an o ring and a fibre seal,took me about n hour to do it,not difficult at all,cars running fine now.

That's the fuel rail pressure regulator and it's seals you are talking about. This won't be responsible for running on in the TD4. The TD4 is a common rail engine, so the regulator it's not responsible for fuelling. The regulator is there to maintain the fuel pressure at an optimum pressure for clean burning.

A common rail diesel uses electronic powered injectors to add fuel. The injectors open when the ECU tells them to. Then the ECU shuts down, so do the injectors. The only way a common rail can run on is if it's fed oil from another source. So you need to check the crank case filter and turbo seals before calling it a fix. ;)
 
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crank breathers are fine already checked em n it had a new turbo last month changing those 2 small seals stopped it running on thats all i did n problem has gone so engine running fine ,to me thats a fix
 

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