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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Jul 26, 2016

• #1

Hi everyone,

Just purchased a 2000 Freelander TD4. However, it keeps cutting out round about 1300 rpm without fail. The engine will start and idle fine but when you rev it and it hits about 1300 rpm it cuts out everytime.

So far, I'v checked the continuety of the wires from the Fuel Rail Sensor and they are fine. does anyone know the ohm reading of the sensor and I can check that?
I've also checked the wiring from the sensor on the fuel filter to the ECU and they are also good.

It's started ****ing down outside so this is all I have managed. Any Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 26, 2016

• #2

I don't believe the HPFR sensor can be Ohm tested. As far as I know, it's an active sensor which sends a PWM signal to the ECU. You can test these kinds sensors, but this requires an oscilloscope and the necessary back probs.
The wiring is a known issue with them, which can produce the symptoms you describe.
Do you have access to a diagnostic tool that will display the live data from the high pressure fuel rail sensor?

 

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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Jul 26, 2016

• #3

I have an osciloscope, could scope it

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Jul 26, 2016

• #4

Scott McDonald said:

I have an osciloscope, could scope it

Click to expand...

That's half way there. I don't know what the signal from the sensor means as that is interpreted by the ECU. You can however test that the PWM signal changes when the throttle is applied. Obviously if you have access to a diagnostic device then the data is already converted into meaningful information for you

 

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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Jul 26, 2016

• #5

I have some Delphi software that I will run tomorrow and get the codes. I will also get the scope out and see what they sensors are saying ... fingers crossed something shows up

 

Arctic2

Well-Known Member

• Jul 27, 2016

• #6

Is the 2000 model where you have the fuel filter in the engine bay, if so try unplugging low pressure sensor, and see if it starts and runs also revs past 1300, also it maybe worth changing the fuel filter.
Unplug only the sensor wiring connection, not the outlet fuel line.

 

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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Jul 27, 2016

• #7

Unplugged the sensor still starts and runs but as soon as hits 1300 rpm ... she dies

I unplugged connection to fuel rail sensor, 3 wires go to it. 2 of them have a 5 volt feed from the ecu, the signal wire puts out approx 4.17 at idle and doesnt change even when revved to 1200? Should it not change?

Cheers

 

Skinny Mike

Well-Known Member

• Jul 28, 2016

• #8

Unplug the maf sensor next to the air filter. This will put the car into a default mode. If it revs past 1300, it's your maf sensor, if not, you really need to plug it into a landrover diagnostic tool. Not a standard obd2, being a 2000 model year, obd2 won't read the codes.
Mike

 

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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Jul 30, 2016

• #9

So lads.

Unplugged maf no difference.

Checked the solenoid at back of high pressure pump
12volt supply and then the wire to the ecu has about 3.4?
Shouldnt it be a switched earth?
Gave it an earth and couldnt hear any clicking? ( fuel pressure regulator )

Any ideas?

 

hd3

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jul 30, 2016

• #10

.. the solenoid at back of high pressure pump

Click to expand...

some pics ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Jul 30, 2016

• #11

Thats a good read but i feel has confused me more lol. How do i know it the solenoid is good or not? haha

Bloody motors!

 

Arctic2

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2016

• #12

Remove the regulator and see if the O-rings is split if so replace it, to do this you will need to remove the manifold, Air box and intercooler section, starter motor so not a quick job at all.

 

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Scott McDonald

New Member

• Aug 3, 2016

• #13

Update *

Haven't check the regulator yet, did scan the car finally and it came up with some fault codes, one being the crankshaft sensor and the other being the camshaft sensor, aswell as some fuel related ones. Will post them later tonight.

I removed the crankshaft sensor, 2 pins (must be inductive) I have 585 ohms across the terminals and with the sensor out and it on the scope I was able to get a signal using a screwdriver (would of liked to do this but starter was out) I have good continuty from the wires to the ECU so not sure why that code is up!