If you must remove the glow plugs, soak them well in WD40 first and use a 1/4" ratchet so you can't apply too much torque. They break off for a pastime. Turn them very gradually, going forwards and backwards and reapplying WD40 regularly.

Thanks for the warning - I have form for breaking that kind of thing :(. Too used to heavy-duty boat ironmongery.
Plus-Gas for me rather than WD40, though.

Pete
 
Oh, and talking of simpler times, I know what you mean. I have a Fordson Super Dexta with a nice little 3 cylinder Perkins. With an old 1/2" / 3/8" double-ended spanner in my back pocket I can pretty much pull apart and fix the whole fuel system in the time it takes to boot up the laptop to scan the damned Td4...
 
As a
Hi guys,

Thanks for your help with the VCU-change advice last week - that's all sorted, but now I have a new problem :-(

For the last couple of months I've noticed the car taking a bit longer to start, but nothing too drastic. Then over the last few days it has ceased to start at all. Not a battery problem, it turns over strongly, but doesn't fire.

The glow-plug light on the dash lights for the normal amount of time, then goes out. The wheel-arch fuel pump is whirring away as normal.

I found mention of the "injector leak test" as described here, but couldn't see any diesel rising in the tops of the injectors. My first attempt at clamping the disconnected hose wasn't very successful, resulting in diesel flowing pretty freely out of the T-pieces - I don't know whether that's normal or significant?

I've been able to get it going a couple of times using Easy-Start (which obviously I dislike doing). Once running, it runs smoothly. There's a little white smoke/vapour in the exhaust, but that could be normal for a cold morning, I don't normally look. Certainly nothing excessive. If stopped, it will restart ok at least within the next hour.

I need the car to get to work, so after the injector test came up with nothing I decided it was time to take it to a garage. However, my local LR specialist is always booked up for weeks in advance, and the diesel place someone recommended also can't look at it for at least seven days. Hence the mention of Southampton (home) and Fareham (work) in the subject - perhaps any local LZers can recommend a place?

In the meantime, any other suggestions for things to try are welcome.

Thanks,

Pete

As a quick test to try would be to turn ignition on until the glow plug light goes out without starting the car then turn the ignition off. Then turn the ignition on again until the glow plug light goes out and then try and start the car. If it fires up I would say Glow plugs need replacing. If not one of the other guys suggestions.
 
I'd be changing the pressure regulator O ring anyway. They cost almost nothing and can cure non starting and sluggish starting issues. It doesn't take much O ring damage to seriously affect fuel pressure at the injectors. If the pressure is down, full fuel atomisation can't take place. This leads to sluggish staring and lower fuel economy.
 
I'd be changing the pressure regulator O ring anyway. They cost almost nothing and can cure non starting and sluggish starting issues. It doesn't take much O ring damage to seriously affect fuel pressure at the injectors. If the pressure is down, full fuel atomisation can't take place. This leads to sluggish staring and lower fuel economy.

Already ordered, given the price. Though the appeal of getting under the car in the dark after a long day at work is not high. And whoever designed the bumper so that it hides the mounting points for the under-tray deserves a slap...

No South Coast users with garage recommendations, then? ;)

Pete
 
Already ordered, given the price. Though the appeal of getting under the car in the dark after a long day at work is not high. And whoever designed the bumper so that it hides the mounting points for the under-tray deserves a slap...

No South Coast users with garage recommendations, then? ;)

Pete
1. You can do the O-ring without getting under the car, or removing the undertray.
2. Use a hole saw to make some access holes for the front undertray mounts. Summer job for you ;)
 
The HP regulator is mounted on the end of the HP pump. It's accessible from above, but removing the inlet manifold is preferred. It'll need cleaning of the accumulated goop anyway.
Removal of the starter is necessary to get the regulator out. Once out, the O rings are visible and easy changed. Clean the mounting faces and refit using the new gasket in the kit.
After that, it's just a case of refitting everything back from whence it came. It sounds long winded, but only takes an hour or so to complete.
 
Ah, ok, that's good news. I don't really know where on the engine we're talking about, though I'm sure it'll become clear with the thing in front of me (and the Haynes book if necessary).

Good idea!

Pete

HI Pete
Click the link below
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/dreaded-td4-fuel-pump-dorset.310656/#post-3913251

This will aid you in removing the starter motor even though it is an R40 same principle
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=227316
 

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