IanSG19

IanSG19

Member
Hi all

Just a quick straw poll really. Getting quotes for replacement of my TD4 clutch, as the noise from the failing release bearing has gone to a new level!
Which of the following would you get quotes from (or trust) to do the best VFM job?
A. LR main dealer
B. LR specialist
C. Clutch specialist
D. Do it yourself
E. General garage

Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
IanSG19 said:
Hi all

Just a quick straw poll really. Getting quotes for replacement of my TD4 clutch, as the noise from the failing release bearing has gone to a new level!
Which of the following would you get quotes from (or trust) to do the best VFM job?
A. LR main dealer
B. LR specialist
C. Clutch specialist

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
(D. Do it yourself!)

B.
 
^^ Yes, I wouldn’t suggest a Freelander as your first clutch job. It has the worst of both worlds - a transverse engine like a FWD to limit space, and the extra hassle of the 4WD bits. But then again, I gained the ‘expertise’ to do clutches by... doing clutches.

As for infrastructure, a jack and stands, spanners, socket set etc are all that’s needed. Standard stuff.

A good clutch kit (such as AP) should be around £150. You’re unlikely to need a new DMF. Getting it done at a reasonable indy should be around £600-ish, but I’ve heard £550-900. LR book time is 5 hours (ha ha ha), but my book time was a weekend.
 
Is it advisable to replace the clutch with the engine in situ, or is it easiest to bite the bullet and hoist the engine/box/IRD out and do the job with good access and without the constraints of an engine bay?

Maybe take the opportunity to do the cambelt with good access to for non-TD4 cars?
 
GrumpyGel said:
Is it advisable to replace the clutch with the engine in situ, or is it easiest to bite the bullet and hoist the engine/box/IRD out and do the job with good access and without the constraints of an engine bay?

Maybe take the opportunity to do the cambelt with good access to for non-TD4 cars?
Click to expand...
Having got the gearbox free, there wouldn’t be many more things to undo to drop the whole engine/transmission out of the bottom.

You would drop the unit onto a pallet, raise the body, then slide everything out. Much easier to get at the gearbox and other things then. I might do this next time. I’m not sure where the fuel lines would disconnect, though.

There was a user on here, Dave29147 or something, who did that, and took pics.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Is it advisable to replace the clutch with the engine in situ, or is it easiest to bite the bullet and hoist the engine/box/IRD out and do the job with good access and without the constraints of an engine bay?
Click to expand...

Definitely leave the engine in the engine bay. The gearbox comes off easy enough to warrant total power unit removal completely unnecessary.
 
Had mine done by a clutch place recommended by a friend who is also a mechanic. Looked like enormous scope to totally wreck the car for my limited skill set. Cost a fortune but trust my friends recommendation. Felt like I was wussing out though, but as Clint said; ‘a good man knows his limitations’.
 
Philgt50 said:
Had mine done by a clutch place recommended by a friend who is also a mechanic. Looked like enormous scope to totally wreck the car for my limited skill set. Cost a fortune but trust my friends recommendation. Felt like I was wussing out though, but as Clint said; ‘a good man knows his limitations’.
Click to expand...
Exactly my thoughts when it came to replacing the belts.

Considering how little space there is to see what you're doing down the end of the engine and the fact that if you get it wrong there's no 2nd chance - I thought why risk it. In the 8 years of ownership, I've done everything else on the car myself, but that was just past my limitations (twice).
 
D or E if I need it done quick/cheap (some OK local garages up here in the valleys).

Had a Freelander 1 TD4 for a few months and the clutch's biting point has always been high. Drives fine, mind. No slipping or sketchy noises. Read a few posts on here that suggest it's pretty normal for an FL1. Anybody have an opinion?
 
Had mine replaced by Egdon Motors - indy Landy specialist near Worcester.
Gave me an honest commentary on the DMF, but i chose not to go for it, as i had no symptoms of vibration, and the car probably won't last beyond another 2 years.
Cost a little over £600. Biting point now very low but light as a feather, and runs lovely. Only gripe was the pile of sh*t Peugeot 307 they gave me as a "courtesy"!
 
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