T

twin_cam_turbo

New Member
Got a td4 facelift 2004 with 127000 miles on the clock.

If you press the clutch in slowly it will remain on the floor. If you push it in at normal speed it functions just fine. There is an inch or so of pedal travel before you get any real feel in it but i wouldn't say bite point is low.

There is no fluid loss. Reservoir level is full and nobody has topped it up.

Watcha reckon? Slave or master?
 
Probably the slave: it was the first on mine that went.
However, the dealerships will do BOTH at the same time because you have to go past one to get to the other. Master is at the top of the engine block, slave at the lower point, if I can recall properly. Dealer is probably about £2000 ??

When my mechanic fixed mine, it was £800 or so for the slave and the same again for the master. Find an independent dealer and get them done. Trust me, it's best if you get them done as the other won't be that far behind it in failing.

Sorry I cannot be the newest bearer of better news!!
 
Same prob as mine have a look on eBay for the parts typed mine in and the parts are £42.00 upwards don't know if they are hard to fit or how long it would take a garage?
 
£800 for slave and the same again for the master!........you well and truly got stuffed.
A complete clutch with slave should cost you no more than approx £600 as to do the slave the gear box has to come out.......so you may as well do the clutch at the same time.
For the later td4 the slave and master comes in 2 parts and are joined with a quick connector.......so the master can be done on its own....the part costs approx £100ish and should take no longer than an hour to do including bleeding the system through.
Paying any more than £200 for the master to be done is well over the top........it's an easy job that most people should be able to do themselves.
 
Thanks chaps. I suspect the slave but at the same time, with no fluid leak it makes me wonder if it's just the master. Might chuck a new master cylinder on it to see if that cures it. I've been quoted £1k for a new clutch kit and master/slave by 2 different indys so know the ball park i'm batting in.

Shame they fitted such a terrible hydraulic system to an otherwise acceptable engine!
 
I'd go for the master 1st ......cheapest option and easy to do on your own.
Just do a search for clutch master cylinder and there's a few useful guides on how to do it.
Then bleed the system.........I think there's a sticky at the top of the Freelander home page with tells you how to do it.
I would suggest buying LUK parts as they are good quality.........eBay or eurocarparts probably cheapest
 
mjrimmer said:
£800 for slave and the same again for the master!........you well and truly got stuffed.
A complete clutch with slave should cost you no more than approx £600 as to do the slave the gear box has to come out.......so you may as well do the clutch at the same time.
For the later td4 the slave and master comes in 2 parts and are joined with a quick connector.......so the master can be done on its own....the part costs approx £100ish and should take no longer than an hour to do including bleeding the system through.
Paying any more than £200 for the master to be done is well over the top........it's an easy job that most people should be able to do themselves.
Click to expand...

That is, IF you're qualified and capable of doing this yourself. I am not.
 
Xara said:
That is, IF you're qualified and capable of doing this yourself. I am not.
Click to expand...

Fair enough......but I would not be going back to the garage you used again as they seriously over charged you, I would expect to pay no more than approx £800 for a new clutch including a new slave and master cylinder at a good independent........what you paid is nearly main dealer prices and they lied to you about the master cylinder.
 
You know if you bleed the system up firstly.

Then split the master from the slave on the quick release connector.

Sit in the drivers seat and push down firmly on the clutch pedal.

If it slowly sinks down, your master has failed.

If it remains firmly in position, your slave has failed.





Might be a worthwhile test to do if your unsure of the failure.
 
Vissie said:
You know if you bleed the system up firstly.

Then split the master from the slave on the quick release connector.

Sit in the drivers seat and push down firmly on the clutch pedal.

If it slowly sinks down, your master has failed.

If it remains firmly in position, your slave has failed.





Might be a worthwhile test to do if your unsure of the failure.
Click to expand...

Now that's a great idea.....good one Vissie
 
That's a very good idea vissie. My only concern with that is whether or not either end would remain sealed. I'm sure I've read somewhere on this site that you shouldn't depress the master cylinder before the system is connected.

Maybe i should worry less...not easy owning a freelander...
 
OK, did the test and the clutch was a little improved, but would still sink to the floor so off it went for a new clutch, salave, M/C and the rest of the crap that goes with it.

Saw the old clutch - that thing was well past it!

Thankfully, the flywheel was fine. My wallet can stop groaning.
Now, I need to replace front brake discs and pads, and replace the auxiliary belts. Looks like a fun job...!
 
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