Hi all,

2002 Td4 S clutch coming up. A few questions:

1. I've seen a few US vids on Youtube about clutch changes and the kits they have all seem to come with a neat little plastic alignment tool. Do any UK ones have this? It seems a nice feature.

2. Any tips on how to assess the DMF? I have a 55,000 mile one sitting about (versus the 175,000 mile one in the car) so will assess both and decide which one to fit. No, the car isn't worth a brand new one.

3. Dare I use a Britpart kit? I was put off recently by an exhaust back box from them which rusted out within 16 months. The retailer initially said it was out of the 12-month warranty, but I rang Britpart who confirmed it was 24 months ... naughty ... I am currently waiting for them to assess the exhaust (which has the structural integrity of stale Pringles).They made me pay return postage too .

Cheers

Close one eye and align the clutch by sight. Failing that, wrap electrical tape around a bit of rod until it is the right diameter to use as an alignment tool.

I dont know what is "acceptable" but mine had a lot of free movement in either direction before the spring started to compress and could be lifted up a few mm and rocked side to side. I assume it was kippered but it never gave any typical symptoms of a failed DMF.

fck Britpart in the eyes. Trading on what was once a good name but now pedalling useless Chinese pish that is whole unsuited to the job. See also Borg and Beck - DO NOT use a Borg and Beck slave cylinder.

Personally, I fitted a Valeo single mass flywheel conversion (which has made absolutely ZERO difference to the way the car drives, no vibrations, no negatives at all and it gets hard use) and the fatal mistake of a Borg and Beck slave cylinder. I chose that because like Britpart they were once a well respected manufacturer. A few others on here had had trouble with their slave cylinder. It will have to all come apart again at some point so I can change that for a part that doesnt fail at the one single job is has to do. in the mean-time I have to bleed the clutch once a fortnight.
(the quick release coupling leaks, allowing fluid out and air in. Its just not able to seal against the male end of the master cylinder pipe. And yes, I have tried three different master cylinders. Typically, the fittings on the new slave are a different size so I cant re-use the coupling from my old slave cylinder.)

Thanks, Dave.

And here I was thinking that Borg and Beck was a good make - perhaps just because it sounds German.

I see Island 4x4 do AP clutch kits - any good?

I used LUK

No problem with it - ŷet at least

also they make slaves in metal now

From some research, AP appears to be related to Borg and Beck, so perhaps I'll avoid that one.

Looks like Valeo or LuK then.

Any more thoughts on the DMF and assessing how serviceable it is?

Edit: Also, any good online suppliers of Valeo and LuK? I don't trust eBay.