Freelander 1, Td4, 2006. BMW engine.

When I bought my Freelander, almost 2 years ago, I went through a systematic process of upgrading it with mod’s; alterations that were mentioned in LandyZone as being beneficial, which all have been.

However, there was something I did that changed the engine starts – where instead of a smooth tick-over from scratch, it tended to chug for a bit instead. And having replaced so many parts, including the sensors, it was impossible to determine the cause of the tick-over change. Until yesterday…

Having watched a Sci-Fi movie on the TV, and still too early for my slumber, I watched some YouTube videos, with an emphasis on the Freelander 1. I have learned a lot by watching YouTube videos, and last night was no exception.

It was made by ‘Bodgit & Leggit’ and concentrated on the replacement of the Crankcase Filter. See the following Link...


Now, as I already said, I had replaced a good many parts and the BMW plastic Crankcase Filter Mod was one of ‘em. The video I watched showed how replacing the standard foam-filter, which fixed a chugging tick-over. It did for for me too - I am pleased to say.

Having just fitted the foam filter (one hour ago) I have to say the start is smooth-and-steady right from the first engine turn-over. I didn’t start the engine prior to carrying out the replacement as this would not have been a strictly cold engine and I wanted to do a comparison from previous starts on earlier days.

I’m off shopping tomorrow, I’ve been informed by my other-half, so will see if there are any other changes to add.

See the photo’s…

Oh, and before anyone questions it, the plastic clip that goes over the foam-filter was fitted before inserting it into the housing.
One other question arises from this. The BMW Mod seems to act like a cyclone-fliter, going by its design, but with any filter there should be a mothod of removing offending particulates. The foam will tend to hold the muck in-situ until it is replaced, but what about the BMW Mod? There doesn't seem to be any method of muck removal? Can anyone add to this? Because if this is true, then any offending particles are being allowed to recirculate, unlike the foam-filter that should stop most.

The crankcase filter is there to remove oil from the gasses (by-products of combustion) before the gasses are fed to the inlet tract to be burned. The BMW cyclone mod filter works by spinning the oil out, where it simply drips back into the sump. It stands to reason that any hard accumulations of carbon will also be returned to the sump along with the oil. The fluffy cotton wool filter works in a different way altogether, and very similar in operation to the oil filter. The oil content will be captured by the fluff and slowly drip back to the sump. However the carbon particles are caught and retained in the fluff, which is why they go crusty and black. It's not a problem as the carbon is removed from the engine when the filter is changed, much like any metal particles are removed from the engine when oil filter is changed.

This is why I didn't like or use the cyclone filter, simply because the carbon particles are never effectively removed from the engine at annual intervals.

Nodge68 said:

The crankcase filter is there to remove oil from the gasses (by-products of combustion) before the gasses are fes into the inlet tract to be burned. The BMW cyclone mod filter works by spinning the oil out, where it simply drips back into the sump. It stands to reason that any hard accumulations of carbon will also be returned to the sump. The fluffy cotton wool filter works in a different way altogether, and very similar to a normal oil filter. The oil content will be captured by the fluff and slowly drip back to the sump. However the carbon particles are caught and retained in the fluff, which is why they go crusty. It's not a problem as the carbon is removed from the engine when the filter is changed, much like any metal particles are removed from the when oil filter is changed.

This is why I didn't like or use the cyclone filter, simply because the carbon particles are never effectively removed from the engine at annual intervals.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Nodge68. It's as I imagined.
I'll do a small write-up tomorrow - post shopping trip.

I have never liked the cyclone BMW filter, it is supposed to be fit and forget but it isn't as need cleaning out about every 2yrs and as above which John states I always preferred the wool filter. I have seen these fitters solid hard due to not being changed for years, personally I change mine every 2yrs very low cost for big gain.

Arctic2 said:

I have never liked the cyclone BMW filter, it is supposed to be fit and forget but it isn't as need cleaning out about every 2yrs and as above which John states I always preferred the wool filter. I have seen these fitters solid hard due to not being changed for years, personally I change mine every 2yrs very low cost for big gain.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Arctic, and I couldn't agree more. When I did change the wool/plastic filter it looked like it had never, ever been changed, even though the 4X4's Service Record showed it should have been.
I'll stick - no pun intended lol , to the original type instead of the BMW plastic thingy.
For Sale: One used BMW Crankcase Filter Mod. One owner since new. Cheap. lol

In addition to my previous...
I took the car out today and it went like a dream. Starting, cruising, accelerating, etc. I do not know - or even pretend to understand why, but the change of Crankase Filter has made a large difference - for the better.
I'm pleased I made the retro-step.