digitaldan
New Member
Fella's
Ok, Ive got the rear up on axle stands, and when I turn the rear wheels the opposite wheel turns in the opposite direction (which I presume is correct). It does require a little force to turn them though, although there is no grinding, or any apparent play.
So from this we can rule out a rear brake issue, and also that the diff is ok. Ive run out of light now, so I will check/reseat the gearbox loom connector tomorrow.
The connector has like a plastic circlip around the top of it. Do I just remove this, and then the two halves will come apart?
Dan
Always good to start with checking those brakes, easy and free to rule out. There will be some resistance in turning compared to a front wheel drive because they you are rotating a diff, the other wheel and the propshaft.
Now you can turn to the gearbox.
Do the wiring checks first - after that the best money spent may well be a visit to an Independant with the right plug-in diagnostics.
Now you can turn to the gearbox.
Do the wiring checks first - after that the best money spent may well be a visit to an Independant with the right plug-in diagnostics.
digitaldan
New Member
Thanks guys, and yes it was definately worth ruling the breaks out. I'll report back in the morning.
DD
DD
digitaldan
New Member
Finally managed to get a 4x4 specialist out to plug the car in and make a diagnosis. No faults appearing, but he did say that the main shaft in the gearbox was not spinning. From this thinks that it is most likely a gearbox failure. Didnt really fill me with confidence, as he was only there 5 minutes.
He has just come back with a quote of £1800 for the recon box with a warranty, and then around £550+vat to remove and refit. Not good.
Anyway, I have just phoned a company who specialize solely in Supply and repair of Auto boxes, and they to wanted to either recon mine or supply a recon box, for near enough £2000.
He has said that for £850, they will diagnose the fault, and fix it, but thats it, ie no full strip down clean, guarantee or warrany. What do guys think? I only paid £2k for the car. I reckon this is probably the best option, as I just cannot afford another £2k, I just don't have it.
Dan
He has just come back with a quote of £1800 for the recon box with a warranty, and then around £550+vat to remove and refit. Not good.
Anyway, I have just phoned a company who specialize solely in Supply and repair of Auto boxes, and they to wanted to either recon mine or supply a recon box, for near enough £2000.
He has said that for £850, they will diagnose the fault, and fix it, but thats it, ie no full strip down clean, guarantee or warrany. What do guys think? I only paid £2k for the car. I reckon this is probably the best option, as I just cannot afford another £2k, I just don't have it.
Dan
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Tell him to **** off at that price. LR main dealer charged me £2230 inc vat for my replacement. Supplied and fitted. They kept the old auto. Would be interested to know how he knew the main shaft wasn't turning?
What type of computer did he plug in? He will need something special to talk with the auto. He will need to talk with the auto's computer, via the cars main computer.
£1498 at ashcroft transmissions, and they ARE the independent eggsperts when it comes to Freelander auto's. Supply and replace same day. They keep your old auto. See below.
Ashcroft Transmissions - JATCO JF506E
What type of computer did he plug in? He will need something special to talk with the auto. He will need to talk with the auto's computer, via the cars main computer.
£1498 at ashcroft transmissions, and they ARE the independent eggsperts when it comes to Freelander auto's. Supply and replace same day. They keep your old auto. See below.
Ashcroft Transmissions - JATCO JF506E
digitaldan
New Member
Thanks Hippo,
He plugged in an "Autologic" hand held unit, which I saw for myself. Just spoken to someone else who said that the main shaft wouldnt necessarily be turning anyway. Thanks for the Link, that sounds very reasonable indeed, with a same day service. Nice one.
Dan
He plugged in an "Autologic" hand held unit, which I saw for myself. Just spoken to someone else who said that the main shaft wouldnt necessarily be turning anyway. Thanks for the Link, that sounds very reasonable indeed, with a same day service. Nice one.
Dan
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Mine had the following faults, when scanned after the barrel connectors opened. All clear now. I know it’s not the same issue you have, but it shows how clever the auto/car is at knowing/checking its symptoms of failure. Hence my surprise at no codes. Hence wondering if their kit couldn’t extract codes from the auto? They should know what they’re doing in they’re specialists. Splitting the barrel connectors and scanning again would prove this either way.
Think the following is correct (rough notes at the time):
0715 input turbine speed sensor A circuit
0705 Inhibitor switch input multiple/no signal
0753 shift solinoid A electrical
0758 shift solinoid B electrical
0763 shift solinoid C electrical
1785 shift/timing solinoid
1786 RDCN timing solinoid short circuit to ground/battery
0748 pressure contro, solinoid A electrical
0743 torque converter clutch solinoid electrical
1605 faulty controller eeprom
With there being no sudden bang, loss of power, scraping noise etc whilst moving, and assuming the fault started one day after starting, then I’d be thinking the fault was more of an electrical failure, than mechanical. Thinking out loud here… I’m not an eggspert on cars/auto’s. Hence I’d be thinking of trying out my own tests by measuring the resistance of all the solenoids etc, by splitting the barrel connectors and using a multimeter to measure the resistance. That was done on my auto after the dealers had checked the oil level (mine was leaking though). They considered a resistance check as mandatory to check all the stuff was in spec.
resistance check = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
The following is a jatco auto diag sheet. Shows resistances and where to connect to, to measure them.
http://www.muddyoval.com/articles/fltech/transmission/JF506E Supplement Part 1.pdf
just noticed ashcroft transmissions sell diy rebuild kits
Ashcroft Transmissions
parts
http://ebolinx.no-ip.org/data/jf506e.pdf
more codes
JF506E transmission troubleshooting help, JF506E rebuilding tips, JF506E technical service bulletins
data
Jf506e Gearbox Overview
another eggsample
http://www.helc.net/Transmission_Test/tranxpages/asian/Jatco_5_Speed.pdf
Think the following is correct (rough notes at the time):
0715 input turbine speed sensor A circuit
0705 Inhibitor switch input multiple/no signal
0753 shift solinoid A electrical
0758 shift solinoid B electrical
0763 shift solinoid C electrical
1785 shift/timing solinoid
1786 RDCN timing solinoid short circuit to ground/battery
0748 pressure contro, solinoid A electrical
0743 torque converter clutch solinoid electrical
1605 faulty controller eeprom
With there being no sudden bang, loss of power, scraping noise etc whilst moving, and assuming the fault started one day after starting, then I’d be thinking the fault was more of an electrical failure, than mechanical. Thinking out loud here… I’m not an eggspert on cars/auto’s. Hence I’d be thinking of trying out my own tests by measuring the resistance of all the solenoids etc, by splitting the barrel connectors and using a multimeter to measure the resistance. That was done on my auto after the dealers had checked the oil level (mine was leaking though). They considered a resistance check as mandatory to check all the stuff was in spec.
resistance check = http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
The following is a jatco auto diag sheet. Shows resistances and where to connect to, to measure them.
http://www.muddyoval.com/articles/fltech/transmission/JF506E Supplement Part 1.pdf
just noticed ashcroft transmissions sell diy rebuild kits
Ashcroft Transmissions
parts
http://ebolinx.no-ip.org/data/jf506e.pdf
more codes
JF506E transmission troubleshooting help, JF506E rebuilding tips, JF506E technical service bulletins
data
Jf506e Gearbox Overview
another eggsample
http://www.helc.net/Transmission_Test/tranxpages/asian/Jatco_5_Speed.pdf
Last edited:
digitaldan
New Member
Hippo,
I've got a meter, so I'll have a crack at those solenoids etc.
I'm totally at the end of my tether with this now mate. I don't seem to be able to get anyone with any expertise to just come and diagnose the problem. I'm still waiting for someone who has been recommended to come out and take a look.
You've been so helpful mate, it really is appreciated.
I'll let you know.
Dan
I've got a meter, so I'll have a crack at those solenoids etc.
I'm totally at the end of my tether with this now mate. I don't seem to be able to get anyone with any expertise to just come and diagnose the problem. I'm still waiting for someone who has been recommended to come out and take a look.
You've been so helpful mate, it really is appreciated.
I'll let you know.
Dan
digitaldan
New Member
Hi Fella's
I'm finally at a point where I now need to source a replacement gearbox. Does anyone have one for sale, or know where there's on knocking about. I may still use Ashcroft for one of their recon's, but open to all options.
Dan
I'm finally at a point where I now need to source a replacement gearbox. Does anyone have one for sale, or know where there's on knocking about. I may still use Ashcroft for one of their recon's, but open to all options.
Dan
digitaldan
New Member
Guess who's finally sourced a decent gearbox. Should be delivered in the morning. Fingers crossed.
Dan
Dan
Hi from a new freelander owner.
I have a problem with my 2000 Freelaander TD4 ES.
I have no forward gears, when I try it it creeps forward, the best way to describe it is, if it was a manual you would think that the clutch was slipping. Reverse is fine and there are no clonks coming from the box. Any suggestions before I buy a box of matches.
I have a problem with my 2000 Freelaander TD4 ES.
I have no forward gears, when I try it it creeps forward, the best way to describe it is, if it was a manual you would think that the clutch was slipping. Reverse is fine and there are no clonks coming from the box. Any suggestions before I buy a box of matches.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you probably do have clutch slipping or at least clutch pack,check colour of oil ,alot of faults in box can be done with box in vehicle as most clutch packs are behind cover on outer side of box behind wheel
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
they will only creep forward with low oil pressure or clutch failure ,solenoid fault is on/off type oil colour will confirm
