D

David Leech

Well-Known Member
Morning all, 1979 Diesel. I spotted some pin hole leaks in the bottom of the tank but when aggressively wire brushing some more serious ones appeared. So, is it worth trying to repair the 'leaks' and if so whats the best long term option, brazing, mig? The rest of the metal is in fantastic condition.
If it is recommended to fit a replacement tank where is the best place to get one that fits straight in? I've been reading about having to make adaptions/adjustments when fitting a new one which seems to me is down to a 'lazy' manufacturer.....

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I fitted a Britpart tank to a series three 88" some years ago. Awful fit with a lot of bodywork trimming involved. Never was happy but at least it didn't leak.
 
Blackburn said:
GDI products on ebay have a good reputation for tanks.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROV...737611?hash=item1ab69aa44b:g:ol0AAOxytdlQ-IHt
Other items
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/gdiproducts/Land-Rover-Series/_i.html?_storecat=4305101011&_pgn=2
Click to expand...

Thanks Blackburn, that's a great price. The Ebay link says they don't 'post' to Ireland, which is where I happen to be, but I'll contact them and see what they say. It's a project so I'm just really dismantling things at the moment.....
 
divie said:
I fitted a Britpart tank to a series three 88" some years ago. Awful fit with a lot of bodywork trimming involved. Never was happy but at least it didn't leak.
Click to expand...

Yep, mine's 88" too. I was reading across a number of 'forums' that some tanks are a nightmare to fit. So Britpart are to be avoided, I'll steer clear of them. Thanks.....
 
Brazing, You can also sweat small copper patches on. If i were mine I'd have a go. My rear diff cover has been repair in the past, probably in the 1970's when the Army had it, they have brazed a big tear in the cover, probably in-situe. Its still working 40 + years on.
 
rob1miles said:
Brazing, You can also sweat small copper patches on. If i were mine I'd have a go. My rear diff cover has been repair in the past, probably in the 1970's when the Army had it, they have brazed a big tear in the cover, probably in-situe. Its still working 40 + years on.
Click to expand...
I like the copper idea Rob, I have an old hot water cylinder that might do the trick. I'll do a sample patch and see how it goes. Maybe get the holes near the drain brazed.....
 
I tried the internal sealer and holes too bad, yours too by looks of it. Sod to clean too thought I’d got my arm stuck past the elbow:eek:
Are you going tdi or Di
The winch is same as mine , I was worried that the driveshaft would not line up but that was fine.
I had some resin in garage so just needed some mat
This stuff cuts easily and does not part like some types, and a few packs of tank putty belt and braces
The support plate fitted back on too secured with some sealant
 

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steve2286w said:
I tried the internal sealer and holes too bad, yours too by looks of it. Sod to clean too thought I’d got my arm stuck past the elbow:eek:
Are you going tdi or Di
The winch is same as mine , I was worried that the driveshaft would not line up but that was fine.
I had some resin in garage so just needed some mat
This stuff cuts easily and does not part like some types, and a few packs of tank putty belt and braces
The support plate fitted back on too secured with some sealant
Click to expand...

I'm hoping to go Tdi, I have all the Turbo bits and got a 300 intercooler, but this is a learning curve for me so I'll adapt as I go along.
As to the winch, I'm missing the Drive Dog and the 'guide' that fits to the crossmember so I'll, no doubt, be in touch with you again.....

29037093917_a8fa602562_c.jpg
 
I've not had success with glass fibre with fuel, it seems to be able to leach along the joint and get under the fibregalss. Plastic metal seems to work with oil but again I'm not sure with petrol. I would either braze of soft solder patches. They repair old motor bike tanks with soldered on copper patches. Use an acid flus and a decent blowlamp and aim to get the solder into a puddle.
 
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