85Santana3

Active Member
Hello
Since I have broken my rear halfshaft again (#6 or 7 since I bought the truck) I need to change it and this time I want to do it myself maybe I would have better luck with it.
I checked the manual and several videos but did not find a clear guide as how to do this. I imagine I do not have to take the tire out or lift the truck. There are several bolts around the damned thing. Can I just open those and pull out the axle?
Also, the number of splines are different in the ads. How do you know which one is correct?

Heaven knows I have seen it often enough in the past but each time car was on the lift and tire out for something else. So I am not sure.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
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you can undo the drive member and pull a shaft out, if drive member is stuck on wheel off makes it easier,
the snapped piece of shaft often sticks in the diff gear as it twists, so its either removing diff or trying to punch it out from the other side,which is easier said than done as usually its drivers side short half shaft that snaps first
 
Thanks for reply James.
we opened and took out the halfshaft to see that the other end of it is cut so neatly as if by a machine. It was stuck in the diff and no matter what we did could not get it out. So we had to take the truck to the mechanic which spend half an hour hammering a rod from the opposite end without results. Finally he said the diff has to come off.
I was too disgusted to stay and watch, I left.
 
If your mechanic just put a rod down the opposite axle tube [ the one that was not broken ] and hammered, all he was doing was
whacking the heck out of the diff cross pin and now that my need replacement.
:rolleyes:o_O:(
Punching out can only be done with a fine half moon rod that can pass the diff pin and hit the broken end of the shaft.
 
What are you doing to keep breaking half shafts? Do you have huge tyres or have you changed the engine for something with loads of torque?
 
If your mechanic just put a rod down the opposite axle tube [ the one that was not broken ] and hammered, all he was doing was
whacking the heck out of the diff cross pin and now that my need replacement.
:rolleyes:o_O:(
Punching out can only be done with a fine half moon rod that can pass the diff pin and hit the broken end of the shaft.
If your mechanic was hammering the diff pin as Tottot suspects: you need to get a better mechanic as well as getting the damage fixed. The broken ends usually tap out easily but you need a rod thin enough to pass the diff pin.
 
What are you doing to keep breaking half shafts? Do you have huge tyres or have you changed the engine for something with loads of torque?
I can't figure this out myself. Engine is original 2.25 petrol. Ties are standard size. I guess its my driving.
you need to get a better mechanic
I agree entirely.
To be honest I am starting think I should buy all the necessary tools little by little and do everything myself. These are not complicated cars. With proper instructions and guidance (thanks to you guys) most people should be able to do at least 3/4 of maintenance themselves. Parts are available and these trucks are going to work another 30 years easily if maintained properly which makes them great long term investment and a lot of fun with huge cool factor. You park an old LR next to a fully loaded Jeep or any other truck you know they look like juniors next to the real deal. It's a shame it doesn't perform at the same level.
 
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Are you driving in 4 Wheel drive on hard surfaces such as road asphalt?

Unlike many more modern 4x4 vehicles, the series transfer box has no centre differential. When driving with 4x4 engaged, the wheels must be able to slip to a degree. The wheels cannot slip on hard surfaces. This causes stress known as wind-up between the front and rear drive line components.

This will put strain on the drive line parts until something breaks.

4 Wheel drive is strictly for soft or loose surfaces such as mud, sand or snow with these vehicles.
 
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That can't be it Webley I even use "locking hubs" (in front) which are on "free" almost all the time. Could that be a reason?! Puzzling thing is why always the same rear driver side halfshaft?
 
You are not driving in low box with locking hubs in the free position are you ? Shure way of putting to much torque through the rear axle. It is the short shaft that tends to break the most.
 
That can't be it Webley I even use "locking hubs" (in front) which are on "free" almost all the time. Could that be a reason?! Puzzling thing is why always the same rear driver side halfshaft?
because of the length of the shaft, the longer one has more give ie it will twist more like a spring than the short one
 
I've read and watched many articles and videos about this gear system and to be honest they make something simple very complicated. This is what I do:
1. normal driving: yellow UP + red FORWARD + hub FREE
2.light 4x4: yellow DOWN + red FORWARD + hub LOCK
3. heavy 4x4: yellow DOWN + red BACKWARD + hub LOCK
4. When parked in places when it might get stolen : yellow UP red MIDDLE :) we can hope the thieves are as confused about land rover gears as rest of people
Am I doing it wrong?
 
What you are doing is fine, and as long as you are not dumping the clutch hard then I can only think that the replacement shafts you are getting are a bit rubbish. Have they all come from the same place? I have been driving Series 2a / 3s for nearly fifty years and have only broken three I can remember.
 
No tottot they were different after market parts except for one which was a used original LR with no signs of wear (lasted 7 weeks!). I have paid close attention to the moment they break (afterward of course) there was no sudden acceleration or pressure on the part. This last one snapped when I was slowly getting out of a parking spot.
They must have gradually deformed till they finally snap. It must be my driving. Lesson this time was that when they warn me that it need changing I should not delay. It costs a lot more to take the broken piece out. Thank you all.
 

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