P38_Ireland

P38_Ireland

Well-Known Member
Hi Lads,

had a new engine fitted a few months back and noticing that its taking longer to start, some times 5-6 seconds of cranking the very odd time even longer. now i know my in pump tank need changing when it goes to 1/4 of a tank i conk out etc (have a new pump there just need time to change it) i wonder are the problems related or is it something else? new glow plugs maybe???
 
You have a duff pump so why go looking for something else? If the FIP has to do the work of sucking the bloody fuel through cos the in tank pump is duff it's likely to crank for a while.
 
Datatek said:
You have a duff pump so why go looking for something else? If the FIP has to do the work of sucking the bloody fuel through cos the in tank pump is duff it's likely to crank for a while.
Click to expand...

do you reckon?? ill change the pump and see if its any different.

will update you.
 
I have noticed the same recently after just a few degrees drop in morning temp. I have already changed to new plugs, battery and pump. I think it may be a glowplug relay problem, it still preheats for the same 5-7 seconds but takes longer cranking to fire. Also noticed after the preheat light has gone out if I wait few more seconds it seems to fire with slightly less cranking.
Scratching head slightly!
 
This bmw engine has this as a common fault.
normally its when it is hot.

Ie, re-starting within 30 mins or so of turning engine off from a previous run.

If i remember there is a cable under no 4 injector that if you unplug it can cure this issue.
do a search on here for hot start issue
 
Thats Bollocks said:
This bmw engine has this as a common fault.
normally its when it is hot.

Ie, re-starting within 30 mins or so of turning engine off from a previous run.

If i remember there is a cable under no 4 injector that if you unplug it can cure this issue.
do a search on here for hot start issue
Click to expand...

Since the number 4 injector needle lift sensor is used for injection timing and along with the crank sensor to determine engine revs, disconnecting it would not be a good idea. When the needle lift sensor fails, the engine runs like ****.
 
Datatek said:
Since the number 4 injector needle lift sensor is used for injection timing and along with the crank sensor to determine engine revs, disconnecting it would not be a good idea. When the needle lift sensor fails, the engine runs like ****.
Click to expand...


Didnt know that!:doh:

I think there is a fix, If i remember when engine is slightly hot glow plugs dont come on?.
i think i spotted a few years back a kit that fetches glow plugs on even when hot.
 
what about natural wear in the timing chain and gears which would retard the timing and it would make it hard to start i advanced mine last year and it starts first turn every time hot or cold made a huge difference also a friend of mine whose p38 dse used to turn forever when hot he advanced his timing and now starts first time and has better power also
 
Now i know you all laughed at me when i turned my plugs on 3 times before i started and i even had new plugs in etc , anyway after my MOT hassle the guy at the garage siad we had a tiny fuel leak somewhere too to fix after doing all the radiator work ..... there appeared to be a tiny hole in the injector spill pipe ... shoved a new piece of pipe on and would you believe it ?? my starting problem has disappeared !!!!!! it starts first time , no coughs or clouds of black smoke !!!!
Could be well worth a check P38 Ireland as we hadn't seen the leak ...
 
seanmull said:
what about natural wear in the timing chain and gears which would retard the timing and it would make it hard to start i advanced mine last year and it starts first turn every time hot or cold made a huge difference also a friend of mine whose p38 dse used to turn forever when hot he advanced his timing and now starts first time and has better power also
Click to expand...

So am I right in thinking that you are not advancing the timing as such, but putting it back to where it should be when new i.e. with unworn timing chain and gears?

Is this something that any diesel tuning shop should be able to do, or does it need specialist RR or BMW tools?

I would love to get to the bottom of this issue and sort it on my car too, but don't want a bodge solution eg glowplugs when hot.

Nobody ever suggests putting a new timing chain on to cure this hot start issue - is it a really hideous job? Seems to me that this would be the only way of curing the root cause of the problem.....

My car starts fine on glowplugs when cold btw so don't think it is a return pipe leak issue...


Cheers,

Jerry
 
its not a difficult job slacken the 2 nuts tightning the injector pump and there is also a bracket at the back of the pump that has to be loosened turn your pump in towards the engine a slight fraction. one of the 2 nuts holding the injector pump is difficult to get at
 
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