Creeeg

Creeeg

Well-Known Member
Been suffering with the tailgate glass being stuck in the up position of late. No amount of jiggery-pokery with the remote fob or window switch inside will persuade it to lower. As a result the tailgate won't open as the glass cannot drop.

The rear wiper intermittently works in this state, but this seems to have no apparent effect on the window opening.

Sometimes in this state when I lock the vehicle the horn beeps as, I assume, the CCU thinks the tailgate is open. Even though as far as I'm concerned it's not :mad:

Weird thing is that this only ever happens when the weather's hot! As soon as the sun goes away for the night or the ****ing rain returns the window works perfectly on the tailgate handle or the inside switch.

I took the panel off the tailgate yesterday hoping to find a loose connection or a chafed wire: nothing. I also took the inside window switch out and took it apart: that was as clean as a whistle :confused:

I know similar issues have been posted about this, but I can't find any definitive answers, so, has anyone got any ideas?
 
Does yer door open warning light on the dash light up when it should?

If you need to open the tailgate and it won't, then try the self test mode. Get someone to pull the tailgate open as you go through the tests. This will at least prove half the circuit works if the tailgate lock releases.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1634385-post10.html
 
sounds very much like the window motor encoder is fooked [its all part of the motor] sometimes if you disconnect battery and reconnect [make sure you have radio code] you will be able to open it , but the fault can be intermittent and so is likely to return , its a stupid design and only cure is changing the motor assuming up down relays and wiring are OK . . . . .
 
Yep, the light seems to work OK. If the horn beeps on "lock" and then I unlock it again, get in, shut the door, put the key in the ignition, the "door open" lamp is on. If the horn doesn't beep then the lamp stays off.

I shall try self test mode next time it does this (it's fine at the moment).

One thing I forgot to mention last eve was that I can hear a vague click from the back if the window is stuck and I try to lower it on the switch. Maybe that does mean the motor is getting power, but is semi-shagged.

Ming, I spotted in another thread you made some mods to override this crap design. Any chance of sharing your ideas as I might be tempted to do the same?

Cheers.
 
Creeeg said:
.

Ming, I spotted in another thread you made some mods to override this crap design. Any chance of sharing your ideas as I might be tempted to do the same?

Cheers.
Click to expand...
yes correct i modded it about a year ago but only cos i could not be bothered to change the motor[and encode] lazy bastid. . . . . stupid thing was the window has worked without fail since i did it:eek: i keep meaning to put the mod up but have been reluctant as many missdiagnose tail gate faults and might do the mod rather than a simple fix ;)
 
No probs. I get what you're saying.

If I do end up changing the motor though, do I really have to encode it in some way...? Surely it's just a case of swapping the regulator (and guide rails, as most replacements I've seen come as a whole kit) over and plugging it in? :confused:
 
The tailgate window won't drop if your Freelander thinks the tailgate is open. The door warning light on the dash is a signal that it thinks a door is open. It sounds like your Freelander thinks the tailgate is open, hence not allowing the window to operate. When this happens put it into self test mode and operate the tailgate window (follow instructions in link above) to force the tailgate to operate. This will prove if the motor is fekked or not. Just be careful not to shut the tailgate with the window fully up. I guess the tailgate closed sensor is in the tailgate lock, simular to doors having their sensor in the lock?
 
The warning light/horn beep doesn't always occur. Just.... sometimes, which is quite frustrating. Even more frustrating is that it is absolutely baking outside now and the tailgate is working fine. Even facing the sun, as it is. Tis weird, but it does occur exclusively when it's hot and never in the cold :confused:

Anyway, I will put it into ST mode next time it happens and see what that reveals, if anything. Thanks for the link to that.

Not that I can drive the thing yet as my leg's still in plaster :(
 
Tailgate problems -again! First, door wouldn't open on latch. Turned out to be a solenoid, but unable to obtain. Garage rigged up a neat manual 'fix' to open the door. Glass was working OK. Now glass has stuck in 'up' position. I was lowering it (via dash switch) and halfway down it made a horrible grinding noise! I stopped then tried again. It went up and stayed there. What's this likely to be? Sure something broke! I hate this tailgate mechanism - SO complicated and unnecessary. It's an old car - 2001 V6, but most of it works fine. Reluctant to pension it off for a tailgate.
 
daisymay said:
Tailgate problems -again! First, door wouldn't open on latch. Turned out to be a solenoid, but unable to obtain. Garage rigged up a neat manual 'fix' to open the door. Glass was working OK. Now glass has stuck in 'up' position. I was lowering it (via dash switch) and halfway down it made a horrible grinding noise! I stopped then tried again. It went up and stayed there. What's this likely to be? Sure something broke! I hate this tailgate mechanism - SO complicated and unnecessary. It's an old car - 2001 V6, but most of it works fine. Reluctant to pension it off for a tailgate.
Click to expand...

It'll be the cable I would think. The tail gate is actually quiet reliable. I know of many 10 year old + FL1s that have all there original tail gate internals, still working the way they should. The door solenoids are a failure point as is the external door switch. Otherwise the tail gate is pretty reliable and very easy to restore to perfect working order.
 
Yep will go with the cables, take the cover off and have a feel to see if anthing broke if not try and lube things up, it could also be ****e in yer runners for the glass, silly cone is best for that, if its snapped cable it can be fixed but pig of a job and will have to re position time the phooter,that is more easy than it sounds go to search its in there .:) best oh luck Earth
ling
 
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