Now I have it open, it’s time to remove the complete door.
I’ve had a search online for any guidance on tailgate removal, not coming up with much.

The only thing really that I’m not sure about is how to get the wiring out?
I was expecting a multi plug type thing.
Confused.com

:-/
 
HoldFast said:
Now I have it open, it’s time to remove the complete door.
I’ve had a search online for any guidance on tailgate removal, not coming up with much.

The only thing really that I’m not sure about is how to get the wiring out?
I was expecting a multi plug type thing.
Confused.com

:-/
Click to expand...

Why do you want to remove the whole door? You just need to fix the internal mechanism. ;)
 
Ah that makes sense. The hinge bolts are on the inside of the door. You need to take the trim off to gain access to them. ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Ah that makes sense. The hinge bolts are on the inside of the door. You need to take the trim off to gain access to them. ;)
Click to expand...

Hi Nodge68:

I have found the hinge bolts ok.
It’s the tailgate wiring loom that I’m not sure what to do with.
Guess i have to try and feed it back and out through?

Thanks.
 
HoldFast said:
Hi Nodge68:

I have found the hinge bolts ok.
It’s the tailgate wiring loom that I’m not sure what to do with.
Guess i have to try and feed it back and out through?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

The loom terminates in the door. So you have to disconnect every connection, then pull it out the door. The harness can then be kept clear of the door, so the replacement can be fitted.
 
If you pull off the rear quarter plastic panel on the hinge side, there's two or three connectors for the door wiring. Not sure if it would be easier disconnecting them there or pulling out the wires from the door but now you have it open you can decide.
The decision might be made for you when you get the 2nd hand door as the supplier may just cut the wires.
 
D063B7A4-8B66-45D7-BB1C-613326B701D2.jpeg
Door now off, thank goodness..!
Feed all the wiring back out the door, then whipped the door off.
By christ it’s a heavy brute - wow’zers.
Hopefully fitting the replacement will go to plan, fingers crossed..

Thanks to all for help and advice, much appreciated.

Cheers!
 
Check the new handle where the threaded insert goes into the plastic. Mine rusted, expanding and cracking the plastic. Then when I tried opening the door, the whole lot came off in my hand.
 
Nodge68 said:
Ok. That sounds like some other wire has been cut. There's a position switch in the motor, that tells the CCU the window is low enough for the door to open. Once the window is at the correct position to allow opening, the window should stop and the door lock should release. Your window motor obviously didn't tell the CCU that it was at the correct place, so the lock didn't release.
You really need to get all the wiring out of the door and rear panel to check for damage.
Click to expand...

Not wanting to hijack this thread - Nodge a colleague yanked the FL rear door open without letting the glass drop and since then it only drops about half the required distance - I have to prize it down the last cm or so. Is there an adjustment on position switch? The window operates as it should with the 'dash' switch and the key & Fob. Door handle functions correctly except for that glass not dropping fully.
 
htr said:
Not wanting to hijack this thread - Nodge a colleague yanked the FL rear door open without letting the glass drop and since then it only drops about half the required distance - I have to prize it down the last cm or so. Is there an adjustment on position switch? The window operates as it should with the 'dash' switch and the key & Fob. Door handle functions correctly except for that glass not dropping fully.
Click to expand...
Have you tried disconnecting the battery to reset it?
 
As Ali said. Try to recalibrate the window first. The glass dropping is controlled by the motor and a ratchet assembly in the cable. It's actually quite a complex operation but is shared by 2 door BMW frame less side windows.
 
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