thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
Can you get someone to press down switch while you pushndown on the window?
Will give that a try before I take it apart could save some time with a bit of luck.... Actually can do it when I unlock it as the window just open anyway.
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
Worth a try, I'd guess there a tangled cable on the motor spool, if you end upstripping the cables off, look up on how to put them back there a pain in the ass..
You have checked the heated rear screen wires arnt fowling? And are connected it won't calibrate if their undone I don't think?..
You have checked the heated rear screen wires arnt fowling? And are connected it won't calibrate if their undone I don't think?..
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
Also try loosening the bottom 2 runner nuts as they control the camber of the window maybe they are over tight?
teddywood1
Well-Known Member
I think your cables are stuck
Solved
After removing the rear tailgate glass it appeared that the runner on the drivers side was actually catching the rear door itself, so I removed the spare wheel and it looks like the previous owner had reversed into something pushing the door in just enough to stop the window from going all the way down. So a strap round the spare wheel bracket then attached to my wife's car and I managed to pull the tailgate out the centimetre or so it needed to get clearance, and after fitting the window back in, it recalibrated straight away didn't even need to disconnect the battery again, so one very happy chappy here now it's all fixed.
And a big thanks guys for your help I wouldn't have stripped it down had it not been for your ideas.
After removing the rear tailgate glass it appeared that the runner on the drivers side was actually catching the rear door itself, so I removed the spare wheel and it looks like the previous owner had reversed into something pushing the door in just enough to stop the window from going all the way down. So a strap round the spare wheel bracket then attached to my wife's car and I managed to pull the tailgate out the centimetre or so it needed to get clearance, and after fitting the window back in, it recalibrated straight away didn't even need to disconnect the battery again, so one very happy chappy here now it's all fixed.
And a big thanks guys for your help I wouldn't have stripped it down had it not been for your ideas.
thequeenscheese
Well-Known Member
Well done, another 1 keeps trundling on..
Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
Great stuff.
So we have learnt recently that the rear window goes all the way down. If it doesn't then when you disconnect the battery it won't recalibrate.
Also there can be multiple reasons for the window not to go down, like sticking on wires, bent tailgate or the runners tight.
That is before we talk about the window not dropping at all, which seems to be electrical.
Oh the joys of owning a Land Rover Freelander.
I wouldn't have it any other way
So we have learnt recently that the rear window goes all the way down. If it doesn't then when you disconnect the battery it won't recalibrate.
Also there can be multiple reasons for the window not to go down, like sticking on wires, bent tailgate or the runners tight.
That is before we talk about the window not dropping at all, which seems to be electrical.
Oh the joys of owning a Land Rover Freelander.
I wouldn't have it any other way
lenny1234
Active Member
On another it was catching on wires to the wiper motor.
Unless you know that you have bent the door, all that pulling it out will do is damage the door unnecessarily.
