defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

After replacing the transfer box oil seals twice and it leaking again im gna change them again with better ones. should i go for oe or the viton high temp ones? bearings n flanges are all good, so im puttin it down to crap cheap seals.

jamesmartin · May 8, 2013

oe, ones should do unless you have another issue

defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

what would the other possible issues be? i took great care not to damage the surface of the housing and the seal itself, bearings are good and breathers are clear.

defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

also do the seals need to be put in dry ie no grease on the outer edge?

jamesmartin · May 8, 2013

defenderdan86 said:
also do the seals need to be put in dry ie no grease on the outer edge?

dry but if your tapping them in place you apply grease to inside to hold garter spring in place they easily pop off when seal is tapped , seized prop slide ,worn output bearings ,worn diff bearings can all cause seals to leak

defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

would me applying grease to the outer edge cause it to fail prematurely? as i did this when i changed them.

trax · May 8, 2013

just a thought, but you did use a felt washer or rtv on the splines?

defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

new felt washer.

jamesmartin · May 8, 2013

defenderdan86 said:
would me applying grease to the outer edge cause it to fail prematurely? as i did this when i changed them.

why did you do that ? its supposed to be a good fit ,a smear of loctite is often a good idea

defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

i followed a write up (not on here) and the guy said apply it

i take it its a nono?

jamesmartin · May 8, 2013

defenderdan86 said:
i followed a write up (not on here) and the guy said apply it i take it its a nono?

only to garter spring ,outside needs to be dry or loctited

defenderdan86 · May 8, 2013

may go for the loctite option. 3rd time lucky ey

as i greased both seals and both are leaking i think the grease may have be the culprit.

trax · May 8, 2013

jamesmartin said:
why did you do that ? its supposed to be a good fit ,a smear of loctite is often a good idea

defenderdan86 said:
i followed a write up (not on here) and the guy said apply it i take it its a nono?

think I followed the same thing and stuck on some lube to slide it in, ah well.

How long has it taken (in miles and time) for yours to leak again?

Silverbeard50 · May 8, 2013

There's a breather on top of the box which, if blocked, will potentially cause oil to pass the output flange seal. Mine leaked onto the handbrake shoes; when I looked for the cause, I found that the breather was blocked. Replaced seal and cleared breather; no further problems.

defenderdan86 · May 9, 2013

i had the breather off before i did the seals it was clean to start with but now its super clean, blew down the hose n all was clear. it only took about 2 weeks if that and 500 miles to start leaking again!

trax · May 9, 2013

defenderdan86 said:
i had the breather off before i did the seals it was clean to start with but now its super clean, blew down the hose n all was clear. it only took about 2 weeks if that and 500 miles to start leaking again!

I went with a bearmach flange kit, new flange, seal, washer and the rest. I'll let you know how it holds up. I only put it on last week. Wish I read this about the grease beforehand

defenderdan86 · May 14, 2013

just a quick question, when u say use loctite do you mean the threadlock loctite of the liquid gasket type?

robbh · May 14, 2013

defenderdan86 said:
just a quick question, when u say use loctite do you mean the threadlock loctite of the liquid gasket type?

This is the stuff you want

Loctite 648 General purpose retaining compound - Henkel

defenderdan86 · May 14, 2013

robbh said:
This is the stuff you want

Loctite 648 General purpose retaining compound - Henkel

i have a bottle of 638 already if thats ok to use?

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