any one changed any and is it a take the swivle off and strip it down job thanks.


Yep take it off and re do it, not a hard job, but the bolts holding swivel to axle are a pain in the btm.
need a rat**** spanner as ya can't get socket in, couple hours job done, and put one shot in
you can get kits with all gaskets needed in one box

seem to remember a thread on here where some one said cut the gasket to put it on, try a search it will come up, but me personally took the swivels off to do it, but then I needed a one new swivel any way
 
You have to shim the top and bottom of the swivel ball to allow you to tighten the top and bottom nut up to the bearing - as it wears, you remove shims so you can tighten the nuts up and remove play. Bad explanation but once you take it apart, you;ll see what I mean. I thought I needed a new swivel ball for MOT when I bought mine and it turned out it still had the full shim set in it. Removed a couple of these, tightened up, been fine ever since.
 
You shim the top one as this provides the pressure on the bearing below and holds it all together nicely, no wobbles or stiff steering

not hard to do just follow RAVE, can't remember the exact lbs of pull you need but its around 3 kg of pull on the steering arm with nothing attached
fit shims
tighten it
pull on balance
undo it all and add / remove shims
tighten it
pull on balance


repeat until weight to pull is what it should be, easy but boring
more shims (thicker)= less pull needed
less shims (thinner)= more pull needed
 
Just read RAVE And these are the words

47. Attach a spring balance to ball joint bore and pull
balance to determine effort required to turn
swivel pin housing.
Resistance, once initial inertia has been
overcome, should be 1.16 to 1.46 kg. Adjust by
removing or adding shims to top swivel pin.
48. When setting is correct remove top swivel bolts,
apply Loctite 270 or equivalent. Refit to 78 Nm,
and bend over lock tabs.
49. Apply recommended grease between lips of
swivel oil seal.
50. Fit oil seal, joint washer and retaining plate with
seven bolts and spring washers to 11 Nm.
51. Fit tie rod and drag link and secure with new
cotter pins. Tighten to 40 Nm.
52. Fit brake disc shield.
53. Loosely fit lock stop bolt and nut.
54. Apply a recommended grease between lips of
swivel housing oil seal.
55. Secure oil seal with retaining plate and securing
bolts. Tighten to 11 Nm.
56. Fit track-rod and drag link and secure with new
cotter pins.
57. Loosely fit lock stop bolt for later adjustment.
58. Fit brake disc shield.
 
if there was play in the ball would it seam like a wheel bearing kinda play.

play is in the swivel pins not the swivel ball it'self and is checked by Jacking front wheel up and grabbing wheel top and bottom, and rocking the wheel. if theirs any movement you need to check the shims and/or replace swivel bearing and top pin.
 
Depends how bad the leak is but if not too bad with oil it's possible just draining the oil and replacing with "one shot" grease could solve your problem without any dismantling.
 

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