Is yours a 1984?
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
You could remove the switch and blank it off until you have time to sort it out properly.
Hazards only became law after 1st April 1986, strictly speaking, if it's not fitted then it can't be tested and as it was manufactured before April 86 they can't force you to fit them either.
Hazards only became law after 1st April 1986, strictly speaking, if it's not fitted then it can't be tested and as it was manufactured before April 86 they can't force you to fit them either.
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
Harry moved under his own steam for the first time in 4 year today 
We drove all of 3 feet.
I replaced the leaking rear brake cylinder with a Delphi replacement and bleed both rears again; that all went to plan. One thing that did crop up is that the new Delphi Cylinder is a smaller bore than the one that came off, but more significantly, smaller than the the one still fitted on the other side.
I'm guessing this will introduce some interesting braking characteristics so I guess I better replace the existing 'big' cylinder with a similar sized Delphi equivalent. New Mintex shoes went on ok. I've read pages and pages about "leading shoes" and "trailing shoes" and the importance for getting them the right way round. I understand the difference and why its important but the new shoes just don't have a leading or trailing shoes; you get one with the pin for the adjuster and that can only go one one side and one way and the friction material is in the middle on all shoes. I'm stumped. Bollocks to it, I cant see there is any other way.
Got the dash all back together after re-routing the wiper actuator arm underneath the wiper pivot to getting going in the opposite direction, all that looks good now. No pictures, we all know what a Series 3 dash looks like
The new Driver and Passenger seat belts are in, they were straight forward as I was replacing pre-existing units. They look good and operate nicely. I've a lap belt for the Little One's seat in the middle but no way of mounting in. I'll ask the local garage to sort this as I don't have the tools for fabricating spreader plates.
Fitted a few more bolts into the bonnet hinges which I was short of last time. also bonnet related - no one tells you that if you upgrade the front wing fixing bolts at the front to S/S screws then you wont be able to refit the plate that holds the bonnet prop up by the battery. Having been scuppered by this, I got some more (3 needed) 1/4" x 1" bolts and replaced the S/S screws as necessary (its the 2 at the top). Sorry, forgot a picture but this is the bracket (picture stolen from Series123.com, ta very much).
I also got the door bottoms on and adjusted to a nice 'clunk' close with a gentle push. I've heard this can be a bit of a fiddle but this happened quite easily. No doubt it all falls apart when you put the door tops on. Its hard to get good pictures as he's still indoors with not much room around.
There is now so few things to do I'm going to start a list on here and begin ticking them off. I'll get an MOT booked to add a bit of impetus to proceedings. In no particular order...
1. Replace oversized near side rear brake cylinder with Delphi replacement
2. Fit bonnet & prop
3. Fit grill (removing aftermarket Land Rover badge first)
4. Fit door tops (glue slider handle back on)
5. Fit Front & Rear 'wing ties' (find out where they go first)
6. Tighten anything that is / might leak
7. Find & fit air replacement heater matrix ducting (gaffer tape if not)
8. Fit rear door including drilling mount for check strap bolt
9. Re-fit Vehicle ID tag & interior fascia plates on bulkhead
10. Refit original steering wheel
11. Fit jack, handle etc
12. Fix hazard warning light circuit and refit centre dash panels.
13. Tidy inner front wing wiring
14. Secure driver's side dash end panel, find & fit air director knob
15. Get local garage to fit centre lap belt
16. Tyre pressures
Then its a run through in preparation for the MOT -
1. Re-check all fluid levels
2. Re-check all bulbs
3. Wash
After that its some 'luxury' items...
1. Finish replacement steering wheel and fit
2. Re-trim replacement Defender seats and fit
3.Door / bonnet repairs - the steel frames are doing the usual so repair / replace as necessary. I've various second hand bits and pieces to chop and change with.
After all this time getting through this I'm starting to worry about the fear of missing out ("FOMO") once its done!
Frustratingly I've got a couple of busy weekends and work is bazerk at the moment so I cant just get on with it
Thanks for reading.
We drove all of 3 feet.I replaced the leaking rear brake cylinder with a Delphi replacement and bleed both rears again; that all went to plan. One thing that did crop up is that the new Delphi Cylinder is a smaller bore than the one that came off, but more significantly, smaller than the the one still fitted on the other side.
I'm guessing this will introduce some interesting braking characteristics so I guess I better replace the existing 'big' cylinder with a similar sized Delphi equivalent. New Mintex shoes went on ok. I've read pages and pages about "leading shoes" and "trailing shoes" and the importance for getting them the right way round. I understand the difference and why its important but the new shoes just don't have a leading or trailing shoes; you get one with the pin for the adjuster and that can only go one one side and one way and the friction material is in the middle on all shoes. I'm stumped. Bollocks to it, I cant see there is any other way.
Got the dash all back together after re-routing the wiper actuator arm underneath the wiper pivot to getting going in the opposite direction, all that looks good now. No pictures, we all know what a Series 3 dash looks like
The new Driver and Passenger seat belts are in, they were straight forward as I was replacing pre-existing units. They look good and operate nicely. I've a lap belt for the Little One's seat in the middle but no way of mounting in. I'll ask the local garage to sort this as I don't have the tools for fabricating spreader plates.
Fitted a few more bolts into the bonnet hinges which I was short of last time. also bonnet related - no one tells you that if you upgrade the front wing fixing bolts at the front to S/S screws then you wont be able to refit the plate that holds the bonnet prop up by the battery. Having been scuppered by this, I got some more (3 needed) 1/4" x 1" bolts and replaced the S/S screws as necessary (its the 2 at the top). Sorry, forgot a picture but this is the bracket (picture stolen from Series123.com, ta very much).
I also got the door bottoms on and adjusted to a nice 'clunk' close with a gentle push. I've heard this can be a bit of a fiddle but this happened quite easily. No doubt it all falls apart when you put the door tops on. Its hard to get good pictures as he's still indoors with not much room around.
There is now so few things to do I'm going to start a list on here and begin ticking them off. I'll get an MOT booked to add a bit of impetus to proceedings. In no particular order...
1. Replace oversized near side rear brake cylinder with Delphi replacement
2. Fit bonnet & prop
3. Fit grill (removing aftermarket Land Rover badge first)
4. Fit door tops (glue slider handle back on)
5. Fit Front & Rear 'wing ties' (find out where they go first)
6. Tighten anything that is / might leak
7. Find & fit air replacement heater matrix ducting (gaffer tape if not)
8. Fit rear door including drilling mount for check strap bolt
9. Re-fit Vehicle ID tag & interior fascia plates on bulkhead
10. Refit original steering wheel
11. Fit jack, handle etc
12. Fix hazard warning light circuit
and refit centre dash panels.13. Tidy inner front wing wiring
14. Secure driver's side dash end panel, find & fit air director knob
15. Get local garage to fit centre lap belt
16. Tyre pressures
Then its a run through in preparation for the MOT -
1. Re-check all fluid levels
2. Re-check all bulbs
3. Wash
After that its some 'luxury' items...
1. Finish replacement steering wheel and fit
2. Re-trim replacement Defender seats and fit
3.Door / bonnet repairs - the steel frames are doing the usual so repair / replace as necessary. I've various second hand bits and pieces to chop and change with.
After all this time getting through this I'm starting to worry about the fear of missing out ("FOMO") once its done!
Frustratingly I've got a couple of busy weekends and work is bazerk at the moment so I cant just get on with it
Thanks for reading.
Last edited:
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
Yes, 11" TLS on the front so could well have been 1 1/4 on the back. From memory the one that came off might have been 1 1/2". The Delphi is marked as correct all the way through to end of series production so a bit miffed if it's wrong. I'll go for a like-for-like replacement on the other side and hope we don't lock up at the back.
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
List from previous post-
1. Replace oversized near side rear brake cylinder with Delphi replacement DONE
2. Fit bonnet & prop DONE
3. Fit grill (removing aftermarket Land Rover badge first) DONE
4. Fit door tops (glue slider handle back on) DONE
5. Fit Front & Rear 'wing ties' (find out where they go first)
6. Tighten anything that is / might leak
7. Find & fit air replacement heater matrix ducting (gaffer tape if not)
8. Fit rear door including drilling mount for check strap bolt
9. Re-fit Vehicle ID tag & interior fascia plates on bulkhead DONE
10. Refit original steering wheel DONE
11. Fit jack, handle etc ???
12. Fix hazard warning light circuit and refit centre dash panels. DASH BACK TOGETHER, hazard switch removed for the time being
13. Tidy inner front wing wiring
14. Secure driver's side dash end panel, find & fit air director knob DONE, Still needs air director knob
15. Get local garage to fit centre lap belt
16. Tyre pressures
New and old brake cylinders again...
Gunson Eazibleed in progress...
Bonnet with new hinges & prop going back on...
Clean up the VIN plate, here's a 50/50 shot getting the ingrained crap off... (I've editted out the end of the VIN number, rather than it not being there)
Got both refurbished door tops back on and readjusted the door closing. I've got a reasonably tight fit on the seals without having to slam them so hopefully that will be enough to keep water out too. Time will tell.
Rear door - the original is shot around the check strap mount. Fortunately, I picked up a second hand replacement ages ago with a better frame. I think in due course I will strip both down, tart up the replacement frame and put it back in the original skin.
Original rear door bottom...
Second hand replacement - looks worse in the pictures than it is but will need to be investigated fully. A new door frame or complete door might be the answer.
Remaining items-
1. Wing Ties - Can anyone explain where these go?
2. Check tightness of anything & everything
3. Replace heater matrix ducting
4. Temp fit original rear door
5. Can anyone post pictures of where the jack, and various handles go?
6. Tidy front wing wiring
7.Check tyre pressures all round.
8. Book MOT.
Any help on these last bits gratefully received.
1. Replace oversized near side rear brake cylinder with Delphi replacement DONE
2. Fit bonnet & prop DONE
3. Fit grill (removing aftermarket Land Rover badge first) DONE
4. Fit door tops (glue slider handle back on) DONE
5. Fit Front & Rear 'wing ties' (find out where they go first)
6. Tighten anything that is / might leak
7. Find & fit air replacement heater matrix ducting (gaffer tape if not)
8. Fit rear door including drilling mount for check strap bolt
9. Re-fit Vehicle ID tag & interior fascia plates on bulkhead DONE
10. Refit original steering wheel DONE
11. Fit jack, handle etc ???
12. Fix hazard warning light circuit
and refit centre dash panels. DASH BACK TOGETHER, hazard switch removed for the time being13. Tidy inner front wing wiring
14. Secure driver's side dash end panel, find & fit air director knob DONE, Still needs air director knob
15. Get local garage to fit centre lap belt
16. Tyre pressures
New and old brake cylinders again...
Gunson Eazibleed in progress...
Bonnet with new hinges & prop going back on...
Clean up the VIN plate, here's a 50/50 shot getting the ingrained crap off... (I've editted out the end of the VIN number, rather than it not being there)
Got both refurbished door tops back on and readjusted the door closing. I've got a reasonably tight fit on the seals without having to slam them so hopefully that will be enough to keep water out too. Time will tell.
Rear door - the original is shot around the check strap mount. Fortunately, I picked up a second hand replacement ages ago with a better frame. I think in due course I will strip both down, tart up the replacement frame and put it back in the original skin.
Original rear door bottom...
Second hand replacement - looks worse in the pictures than it is but will need to be investigated fully. A new door frame or complete door might be the answer.
Remaining items-
1. Wing Ties - Can anyone explain where these go?
2. Check tightness of anything & everything
3. Replace heater matrix ducting
4. Temp fit original rear door
5. Can anyone post pictures of where the jack, and various handles go?
6. Tidy front wing wiring
7.Check tyre pressures all round.
8. Book MOT.
Any help on these last bits gratefully received.
btiratsoo
Member
No.5 - the jack in my S3 was found user the passenger seat in the tool compartment(?) along with the wooden handle. No idea where the two metal sections of handle go as too long for that box. On the bulkhead behind the rear seats I have mountings for a starting handle. Can only assume the jack handles go there as well.....great thread.
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ashley. Yes, I'll take some pictures of the seatbelt install. It was easy for me as the driver & passenger had belts installed already, there is a bit of hardware required in order to mount the reel and anchorage points securely.
Yeah that makes sense (jack and small bits under passenger seat). I've got clips on the bulkhead behind the seats for the longer things - starting handle, and I think jack handle too, if I can find it now.
Thanks for your kind words.
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the radio silence in the last few weeks, I'm having computer trouble and can't upload photos. I've been beavering away, completed the let few outstanding bits for the MOT and dropped him off for the test. That first drive was bloody terrifying. I've just stopped for pint and bowl of chips in the sunshine.
Sadly, I know he won't pass. Last thing Saturday I discovered a weeping front brake cylinder and pulling to the right under braking. This is because I didn't replace those components when the rebuilt the front axle. More fool me.
Anyway, drums, shoes and cylinders on order and I'm hoping to get it sorted for a retest in the 10 day limit.
I also saw a few oil spots on the floor, looking like front crank seal. I did replace that already but remember not being certain it went in straight. At least I had the foresight to modify the the timing cover to make the seal mud cover removable
Nearly there!
Sadly, I know he won't pass. Last thing Saturday I discovered a weeping front brake cylinder and pulling to the right under braking. This is because I didn't replace those components when the rebuilt the front axle. More fool me.
Anyway, drums, shoes and cylinders on order and I'm hoping to get it sorted for a retest in the 10 day limit.
I also saw a few oil spots on the floor, looking like front crank seal. I did replace that already but remember not being certain it went in straight. At least I had the foresight to modify the the timing cover to make the seal mud cover removable
Nearly there!
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
Evening chaps. Right, well I've been back to the garage to collect him and find out what else needs attention, there are a couple of things-
1. Serious pull to off side under braking. No surprise here, I told them so! (MOT fail item)
2. Lack of steering lock on 'right hand down'. Slightly bemused by this as I thought I'd set it all up correctly, but during the tracking I asked them to do, they discovered there is bugger all right hand lock. I can say with some certainty that this is true as we required a 3-point turn to get out onto the road. I guess I need to re-set the steering box, longitudinal steering tube, steering relay and drag link. Thats all nice and easy to get at.
3. Rear suspension shackle bolts too short. Odd one this as I bought a kit but true enough the ny-lock wasn't engaging with the 2 bolts in the shackles right at the back, both sides, leaving the spring room to shift from side to side. Slackening the nut and tightening the bolt through the threaded shackle brings it all together but the shackle plates are then on a bit of an angle. I think thats because the chassis came with polybushes in.
4. Fit the centre lap belt. I asked them to fit the supplied inertia lap belt to the centre seat but the chap reported the inertia lock device appeared faulty. On getting it home it appears to be working as I would expect it to so not sure what was going on? Either way, it can be fitted using the existing drivers & passenger belt mounts so no fabrication work required.
5. Front side lights not working. Worked when I last checked but I haven't rechecked since the MOT. I imagine the switch has gone or a connection come apart somewhere. Most likely connection as it only says the front so I assume the rears are working. (MOT fail item)
6. Fog light 'tell light' not working. The tell light is the light inside to show whats on (I'd never heard this expression before). I know the connections in the switch are iffy and it was working when last checked so I kind of just left it. I'll need to give it a proper clean up. (MOT fail item)
7. Clutch Slave has a weep of fluid on it. I wasn't aware of this so will investigate. Hopefully just requires nipping up.
8. Minor leak from 'front exhaust'. Pretty vague and I wasn't aware of anything after sealing the obvious leak from the manifold to down pipe joint, perhaps I didn't seal the leak properly originally? Whats the best way of locating this leak? Maybe take the fan belt off so it isn't quite so windy under there and have a feel?
So, nothing too major; the steering is looking like the hardest job there mainly due to access. I've got 10 working days to sort fixes for the 3 fail items to get the free retest. I'll try and get back there next Saturday but given its 10 working days I do have the weekend after too if necessary. I'd like to get the lot done before it goes back ideally.
Sorry for all these lists and lack of photos. (Still struggling with the PC)
I've just had a very quick look at the revised MOT requirements from 20th May and I cant see anything too significant in terms of brakes. In fact, looking at the Fail sheet it looks like they are using the new system anyway. Sadly, Harry's 1982 so we have a few more years yet Actually, I shouldn't role my eyes, it wasnt' long ago that the exemption wasn't even rolling.
1. Serious pull to off side under braking. No surprise here, I told them so! (MOT fail item)
2. Lack of steering lock on 'right hand down'. Slightly bemused by this as I thought I'd set it all up correctly, but during the tracking I asked them to do, they discovered there is bugger all right hand lock. I can say with some certainty that this is true as we required a 3-point turn to get out onto the road
. I guess I need to re-set the steering box, longitudinal steering tube, steering relay and drag link. Thats all nice and easy to get at. 3. Rear suspension shackle bolts too short. Odd one this as I bought a kit but true enough the ny-lock wasn't engaging with the 2 bolts in the shackles right at the back, both sides, leaving the spring room to shift from side to side. Slackening the nut and tightening the bolt through the threaded shackle brings it all together but the shackle plates are then on a bit of an angle. I think thats because the chassis came with polybushes in.
4. Fit the centre lap belt. I asked them to fit the supplied inertia lap belt to the centre seat but the chap reported the inertia lock device appeared faulty. On getting it home it appears to be working as I would expect it to so not sure what was going on? Either way, it can be fitted using the existing drivers & passenger belt mounts so no fabrication work required.
5. Front side lights not working. Worked when I last checked but I haven't rechecked since the MOT. I imagine the switch has gone or a connection come apart somewhere. Most likely connection as it only says the front so I assume the rears are working. (MOT fail item)
6. Fog light 'tell light' not working. The tell light is the light inside to show whats on (I'd never heard this expression before). I know the connections in the switch are iffy and it was working when last checked so I kind of just left it. I'll need to give it a proper clean up. (MOT fail item)
7. Clutch Slave has a weep of fluid on it. I wasn't aware of this so will investigate. Hopefully just requires nipping up.
8. Minor leak from 'front exhaust'. Pretty vague and I wasn't aware of anything after sealing the obvious leak from the manifold to down pipe joint, perhaps I didn't seal the leak properly originally? Whats the best way of locating this leak? Maybe take the fan belt off so it isn't quite so windy under there and have a feel?
So, nothing too major; the steering is looking like the hardest job there mainly due to access. I've got 10 working days to sort fixes for the 3 fail items to get the free retest. I'll try and get back there next Saturday but given its 10 working days I do have the weekend after too if necessary. I'd like to get the lot done before it goes back ideally.
Sorry for all these lists and lack of photos.
(Still struggling with the PC)I've just had a very quick look at the revised MOT requirements from 20th May and I cant see anything too significant in terms of brakes. In fact, looking at the Fail sheet it looks like they are using the new system anyway. Sadly, Harry's 1982 so we have a few more years yet
Actually, I shouldn't role my eyes, it wasnt' long ago that the exemption wasn't even rolling.
