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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
Does anyone have a list or diagrams of the fuel lines for a Series 3 SWB diesel? I am thinking of pipe lengths and types of connectors.

This doesn't seem to be covered in the green book. I would like an idea of the bits and pieces I would need to order to put a new set together. This is unless I can buy a set ready made?

Thanks for any info.
 
Use string. Tape one end to the pipe connector on the tank and take it the route you want up to the filter. Dont cut it, just mark the string with tape. do this for all connections and you have a pretty accurate way of measuring hose lengths. Its how we measure up for running Morse cables on the boats in work and should work fine for this
 
Does anyone know the types and numbers of connectors I would need for this? Also, can anyone recommend a source for them?
 
My 2 cents:

Some years ago I've changed the plastic pipes for translucid rubber ones (transparent).

Bought by metre, something about 1.5 pounds/metre here in Brazil. Used about 4 metres with some left over. They are used in some petrol cars, so the rubber is "petrol / diesel certified".

Conected them directly to the outlets of the fuel tank, sedimentator, diesel filter, and return outlets from fuel injectors.

Just follow the diagram of the Green Book. Very simple. Start doing the longer connections (from sedimentator to diesel filter, from lift pump to diesel filter and from the number 4 injector return spill to fuel tank), then the others.

The only one that not fit was the bottom pipe of the lift pump to injection pump. For this I use a wider one, "normal" petrol rubber pipe that fits.

I used plastic tie wraps to fix them to the conectors.

No leakings since 2009.

Bleedind the fuel system with transparent rubber pipes is dead easy!

Sorry for the english...

Regards
 
I like the idea of transparent pipes! you can see if fuels coming through without disconnecting anything, might do that on a future project
 
If the tubing does not leak you do not need to see what is inside .
Black nylon / plastic tubing has run for years without any issue.
Half of the problems with conversions are caused by penny pinching and fitting rubber tubing over the unions / pipes with poorly fitted jubilee clips . If this was a viable option that his how Landriover would have installed them.
Fitted my 200DI two years ago and fitted the same style tubing used on the discovery and had no problems whatsoever.
 
Blackburn said:
If the tubing does not leak you do not need to see what is inside .
Black nylon / plastic tubing has run for years without any issue.
Half of the problems with conversions are caused by penny pinching and fitting rubber tubing over the unions / pipes with poorly fitted jubilee clips . If this was a viable option that his how Landriover would have installed them.
Fitted my 200DI two years ago and fitted the same style tubing used on the discovery and had no problems whatsoever.
Click to expand...

I menat when bleeding the system to check fuels coming through fine
 
Mad Hat Man, they don't turned yellow nor opaqued yet. They're like almost new. Five years since I put them there.

Rubber fuel ducts here are tough because they're used for ethanol veyhicles. Plastic pipes for this LR here is non existent...

Importing these pipes with 60% federal customs + 18% state tax was not a option...
 
As an aside, I remember reading on the internet that diesel vehicles were banned for private use in Brazil. Is that true?
 
Webley1991 said:
As an aside, I remember reading on the internet that diesel vehicles were banned for private use in Brazil. Is that true?
Click to expand...

Nope.

Almost 90% of all cargo and passenger transport in Brazil is made by diesel trucks and buses. Ban this use would be impossible.

An old law here banned diesels in small cars. Even 100% of the motors factories build diesels for small cars but they are not allowed to sell them to automakers.

Almost all of the small diesels 2.0 and below were exported to EU, Asia and other Latin America countries. VW Camper (named "Kombi" here) was the sole example here, using a under 2.0 engine.

Cars allowed to use diesel engines here must have a) loading capacity bigger than 1 metric tonne or b) transfer box with low gears and 4 wheel drive.

The b) statement were put into the law to permit Toyota's Land Cruiser been fabricate here, since the 60's. Thus, some diesel LR could be imported without problems.

For example, until LR proved that their Traction Control + inteligent gearbox of the Freelander 2 is "similar" to a transfer box + gearbox configuration of other cars they were not allowed to import diesel models. All of Freelander 1 imported here are petrol ones. If you try to put a diesel in a FL 1 you won't get your "MOT" here...
Webley1991 said:
As an aside, I remember reading on the internet that diesel vehicles were banned for private use in Brazil. Is that true?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the reply.

Maybe my question was badly worded. What I meant by "private use" was as in personal cars as opposed to business use such as buses and haulage. It seems like I only read part of the imformation when I first read about this law.
 
I managed to replace all of these pipes in the end.

The piping itself isn't the problem, but the banjo fittings aren't available anymore, so I wire-brushed the rust off and re-used them. With a coat of black spray paint (obviously not on the sealing surfaces) they look good as new.

I also had propblems making the 90 degree bend for the spill return from the injectors back to the tank. In the end I used a 2 inch offcut of 3/16" copper brake pipe bent at 90 degrees. This fits nicely into the end of the 1/4" Nylon tube when heated with a heat gun. Would the smaller bore size of the tube be a problem? How much fuel ends up going back to the tank?
 
I mean the pipe that goes from the end of the row of injectors back to the fuel tank. The one feeding the bottom of the pump doesn't have any restriction. The photo shows the part I am talking about.

It seems almost impossible to bend this tubing without kinking it. I read somewhere else online that the way to do it was this:

1) Cable tie it to a metal rod bent into the shape you want.
2) Soak it in a pan of boiling water for 10 minutes.
3) Take it out and quench it in cold water.
4) Cut off cable ties, pipe should be bent to shape wanted.

I tried it, but it still didn't come out very well. Does anyone have any other suggestions?


Also, are the to/from tank pipes simply loose in the engine bay from the
clip on top of the chassis rail to the lift pump and end of injectors? Mine were when I took the vehicle apart, but I would think they should ideally be secured in some way.
 

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