T

Trevt

New Member
Hi all, been a lurker on the site for a while after joining to pick up advice for my wifes Freelander. Well now I've properly joined the club and got the Range Rover I always wanted - a P38 4.6 HSE with LPG conversion.

Unfortunately my first post suggests I might have missed something on my inspection (grrrrr). So my plea for help.......

I've just bought a 1998 P38 which seemed fine and good when viewed and when I drove it home two days later. However it's been sat for a couple of days and seems to have lowered to bumnp stops.
When starting the engine it doesn't rise, even when I try to push it to highest setting. I do not have the EAS fault message.
However the height indicator light is showing the lowest level light permanently plus either the standard or highest level light (depending which I have selected).

The previous owner told me that he had recently replaced the airbags. I'm wondering if he has re-calibrated (or needs to?) or whether there is something else I should look for?

Any advice on what the issue might be and how I should resolve gratefully received.

Thanks
 
Hi and welcome.

Try leaving it with an open door with the motor running for ten minutes and then close the door and select high and see if it rises. If it does it's a sign the compressor is running but it is not in good shape or there is aleak somewhere.

Donload RAVE and take the time to read how the EAS system works. very useful to understeand what's wrong.
 
Do you have any of the doors or the tailgate open, as this inhibits the suspension height change... Lowering to the bumpstops happens because the car tries to adjust/level it's height by lowering to the lowest corner's height every few (6, IIRC) hours.

Do you hear/feel the compressor running? It's in a box on the rear right side of the engine bay when standing in front of the car.

Try and run the engine for a few minutes with one door open, so the pump fills the tank, then try to close all doors and put in neutral, the car should rise.
 
Do the compressor output check as detailed in "How To" section. Sounds like you have a problem with air supply.
 
i had this problem twice on my p38 on the first time i found that the piston in the compressor had snapped in half and burnt the motor out second time the seal on the end of the piston in the compressor had folded back on its self and split it so i would take the compressor out and unbolt the end plate and check the piston
 
Thanks guys

First time I tried I did have the drivers door open.....

Been out again, this time let it run a bit with door open, closed door and sat for a while. Couldn't feel any upwards sensation nor hear the compressor. Also opened the bonnet and couldn't hear the compressor.

I'm assuming I wouldn't miss the noise (can't imagine it being that quiet). So assuming it's not being switched on, is faulty or isn't getting power. But surely they would all lead to a fault message?

Hadn't time to check further earlier but will be out tomorrow with multi-meter checking feed (green +tive and black -tive). And will check fuses :)

Still waiting for RAVE to download and will have a look. Am I missing something?

Suppose it could be a loose connection if it's stopped suddenly. When I first viewed the car I watched it rise no problem (and quite quickly).
 
Trevt said:
Thanks guys

First time I tried I did have the drivers door open.....

Been out again, this time let it run a bit with door open, closed door and sat for a while. Couldn't feel any upwards sensation nor hear the compressor. Also opened the bonnet and couldn't hear the compressor.

I'm assuming I wouldn't miss the noise (can't imagine it being that quiet). So assuming it's not being switched on, is faulty or isn't getting power. But surely they would all lead to a fault message?

Hadn't time to check further earlier but will be out tomorrow with multi-meter checking feed (green +tive and black -tive). And will check fuses :)

Still waiting for RAVE to download and will have a look. Am I missing something?

Suppose it could be a loose connection if it's stopped suddenly. When I first viewed the car I watched it rise no problem (and quite quickly).
Click to expand...

Compressor noise can often be quite difficult to distiguish from all the other noises under the bonnet, especially if P38s are new to you. I found the best way was to put my hand on top of the EAS box, as if it is running, you will feel some vibration.

Also, bear in mind that height changes are inhibitied if your foot is on the brake...

If it's trying to do a height change, but can't get / doesn't yet have enough pressure, the current height should be solid on the indicator, with the demanded height flashing... is that right, Wammers / Data? Not sure what two different solid lights at once means, if that's what you have...
 
Check the under bonnet fuse box for signs/smells of burning while you are looking at fuses and also check the relay. Could also be the thermal trip has gone on the compressor.
 
Clarky130 said:
Compressor noise can often be quite difficult to distiguish from all the other noises under the bonnet, especially if P38s are new to you. I found the best way was to put my hand on top of the EAS box, as if it is running, you will feel some vibration.

Also, bear in mind that height changes are inhibitied if your foot is on the brake...

If it's trying to do a height change, but can't get / doesn't yet have enough pressure, the current height should be solid on the indicator, with the demanded height flashing... is that right, Wammers / Data? Not sure what two different solid lights at once means, if that's what you have...
Click to expand...
Not sure what it means either, I think it is the ECU a bit confused.....when it happens to mine, I select Access, wait for it to lower, then select Standard, and up she goes....

The EAS Compressor is surprisingly quiet, well mine is anyway...

Do the Wammers Air Check as mentioned, if output is strong, time to leak check the pipes and bags....

Run the car for 10 minutes with a door open, close the door and select access, let the car settle, then select Standard....

Leaving the car for 10 minutes gives the compressor time to mostly fill the tank.....as it is the tank pressure that lifts the car and not the compressor - all thats there for is to fill the tank.

If the output is strong, you have given enough time to fill the tank, and it still won't rise, me thinks there is a leak in the supply side (Tank and Valve etc).

If it rises, but keeps readjusting level and compressor always running, you have a leaky airbag or associated pipe/valve....

The Wammer and Datatek are super clued up on the system, and Datatek can supply the EAS Software and Lead (Plus a copy of RAVE I believe) for around £11 + P&P so PM him to get hold of it (note to self: PM Datatek and request same....)

Keep coming back on here the EAS is simple to work on and is not as unreliable as it seems, just needs maintenance is all.....as Datatek likes to remind us - the Airbags only have a 7-8 year life (80k miles or so) before they will need to be changed....
 
Guys, again thanks for the useful info. Had some time to fiddle a little tonight and started with "is the compressor pumping?"

Couldn't hear it, couldn't feel any vibration when I wrapped my hand around it and no sign of heat build up. The engine was running, gear in P and all doors (except bonnet) closed. As for dash indicators - solid on access level and flashing on standard. No error lights or messages on dash.

Checked all fuses (17 & 44 OK) but not sure how I can check a relay (it wasn't clicking which I would expect if it was switching on/off). Tested continuity of connection on compressor end of electrical plug (ok) and then checked voltage across car end of same connected. It did flicker on test meter but only at mV - seems no power to the compressor.

Will try to get hold of a new relay as that seems favourite to me? Or is it still worth trying the "leave the door open for 10 mins" advice in case the ECU is confused, given that the indicator shows the ECU is trying to change height?

Also when engine is switched off there seemed to be a release of air from the valves in the same housing as the compressor - as if it was releasing air in one or two bags. A pfft rather than a pffffffffffft.

Have read through the manual and agree it seems straightforward system and, while not a mechanic, I'm able to do most things if I can understand it.

Sorry for long posts but trying to make sure I don't miss anything relevant in my ignorance.

Thanks

Trevor
 
The compressor will not run if the system is up to pressure, the sound of air releasing suggests there is pressure in the system. Best way forward IMO is to hot wire the compressor to see if it makes pressure. No pressure, fix compressor, good pressure look for electrical fault stopping the solenoids actuating like a bad earth, corroded connector etc.
 
Ours was doing similar and it turned out that our driver had packed up. Replaced it with a used one and it's all been working fine since. Hope you sort it soon!
 
Well the good news......

jumped the relay connections and the compressor kicked in, ran the engine and left it to do it's business for 10 mins. I now have a Range Rover sitting proudly on standard. Given the length of time it ran before rising majestically (and within a few minutes back & front) suspect there was no pressure at all and filled the reserve first. Very happy man :)

Now my next question.... is the relay specific or more than the average jobby bought off the shelf? I passed a motor factors today and picked a 30A relay with same connections and it didn't make a difference. Also put an LED lamp across the low amp terminal expecting it to light up as soon as the engine ran. :confused:

That leads me to believe there's a fault on that circuit and maybe the relay is good? But as the lights all work and there is no fault I'm guessing one of the switches.

Does that sound likely or do I need to worry about the ECU (assume if it was dodgy would show a fault in self-diagnosis?)

And the next problem.......ABS light has decided to come on for a show. Won't worry too much on that one until I've blasted her up the road. See if it rights itself as it's only appeared since I jostled the relays. :confused:

And final question - recommended source of parts? For switches and relays I'll go new so looking at Paddocks, Rimmers. As Emmotts aren't far away they are an option especially for used.

In less than a week my new baby is putting a smile on my face and I've only driven her 20 miles home! :bounce:
 
Trevt said:
Well the good news......

jumped the relay connections and the compressor kicked in, ran the engine and left it to do it's business for 10 mins. I now have a Range Rover sitting proudly on standard. Given the length of time it ran before rising majestically (and within a few minutes back & front) suspect there was no pressure at all and filled the reserve first. Very happy man :)

Now my next question.... is the relay specific or more than the average jobby bought off the shelf? I passed a motor factors today and picked a 30A relay with same connections and it didn't make a difference. Also put an LED lamp across the low amp terminal expecting it to light up as soon as the engine ran. :confused:

That leads me to believe there's a fault on that circuit and maybe the relay is good? But as the lights all work and there is no fault I'm guessing one of the switches.

Does that sound likely or do I need to worry about the ECU (assume if it was dodgy would show a fault in self-diagnosis?)

And the next problem.......ABS light has decided to come on for a show. Won't worry too much on that one until I've blasted her up the road. See if it rights itself as it's only appeared since I jostled the relays. :confused:

And final question - recommended source of parts? For switches and relays I'll go new so looking at Paddocks, Rimmers. As Emmotts aren't far away they are an option especially for used.

In less than a week my new baby is putting a smile on my face and I've only driven her 20 miles home! :bounce:
Click to expand...


Sounds like the thermal switch is stuffed. Peel back a bit of covering from the Orange wire, don't disconnect it from loom. And wire it to earth. If compressor runs switch is duff. Don't leave it like that though, unless you have a good fire extinguisher.
 
Last edited:
Just to calm you down a bit, the ABS light stays on after every start of the car until you reach certain speed, IIRC around 10 mph.

If the compressor works when jumping the relay and nothing happens when you swap the relay with a good one, i'd suspect the thermal switch inside the pump is inhibiting the EAS computer. You can check the thermal switch by checking continuity on the compressor connector between the black and orange wire. No continuity --> duff thermal switch.

As my switch is also gone, i shorted the orange wire to the chassis earth, but mind you, this could ruin your compressor if your air suspension is not OK otherwise, because you override the temperature failsafe and compressor can overheat.
 
Duff thermal switch it seems then. Somebody suggested that first off :rolleyes:

No continuity between the orange & black pins on the compressor plug.
 
You can get it here or search eBay for yourself ;)

The swap is simple, if you don't mind using soldering iron. Good luck :)
 
Trevt said:
Duff thermal switch it seems then. Somebody suggested that first off :rolleyes:

No continuity between the orange & black pins on the compressor plug.
Click to expand...


That was in this thread, Keith. It was a good call. No continuity proves it. You will have to take the brush holder plate off the back of the compressor
to replace it. If when you get that off the commutator is knackered better to replace the compressor.
 
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