hef19898 said:
henry_b, an Unimog? Nice! Really have to get behind the wheel of one one day!

So, the plan is as follows now: replacing the old shocks with standard length Bilsteins (saves some money for new police spec springs if mine a done). Leaving everthing esle like it is, the tires are working just fine (no idea what kit was added previously, should try to get hold of the previous-previous owner). In case the ride is not satisfactory, I can still use the second shock mounts to toy around.

Slowly getting there...
Click to expand...

Unimogs are good fun to drive, built like tanks too... ;)

I fitted Police spec springs to my 91' and it improved not only the handling but the ride too, yes it was firmer but much nicer to drive...
towing was far improved too, the Boge strut had packed in, which made the arse end stupidly low even with a small load in the back...
 
Henry_b said:
the Boge strut had packed in, which made the arse end stupidly low even with a small load in the back...

I think one of the problems with the Boge is lack of usage, though obviously not if you are towing on a regular basis.
I once had the occasion to load the rear of my RRC with three 'large' passengers plus filling the load area at the same time & was alarmed at how the back end dropped … however after a short journey the car (fitted with factory spec. springs) leveled out.
There is an, admittedly complex, method of checking the unit's efficiency. The details elude me now, but it involves imposing a stated load & measuring clearances to the bump stops before & after a drive.
Click to expand...
 
From the manual which assumes normal springs, not lifts.

1. Check levelling unit for excessive oil leakage, if so, change unit. Slight oil seepage is permissible.

2. Remove excessive mud deposits from underneath vehicle and any heavy items from vehicle that are not original equipment.

3. Measure clearance between rear axle bump pad and bump stop rubber at front outer corner on both sides. Average clearance should be in excess of 67mm. If less, remove rear springs and check their free length against Road Spring Data.

4. Replace any spring whose free length is more than 20mm shorter than figure given. If after replacing a spring the average bump clearance is still less than 67mm, replace levelling unit.

5. With rear seat upright, load 450 kg into rear of vehicle, distributing the load evenly. Check bump stop clearance, with driving seat occupied.

6. Drive vehicle for 5km (3 miles) over undulating roads or graded tracks. Stop vehicle without disturbing loading. With driving seat occupied, check bump stop clearance again.

7. If change in clearance is less than 20mm levelling unit must be replaced
 
A set of springs and shocks for mine were a few hundred quid.. ;)

Slightly stiffer springs does wonders for them IMO ;)
 
I just came to realise, there is now way to know for sure that my boge unit is still working... The rear is stiff enough that one might think the Springs are sold rods...

Anyway, just ordered the Bilstein shocks. Won't touch the springs for now. Now I need just some time to get to work on the suspension...
 
Sooo... I have a problem now. Removing the front shocks was easy enough. As was fitting. But now I just can't get enough torque to the top and bottom screws to tighten them up, the shock is always turning with the self tightening nuts... Any ideas?
 
theres a flat on the end of the spigot you could grip with mole grips,the bottom end hold bottom of shocker where its welded with grips or strap wrench
 
Thanks man, saved my day! Would highly appreciate so, if Bilstein made the bottom end bushing a tad smaller, grabbing the end is a major pain! Or maybe it's just me, who knows...
 
Front shocks are in... Not sure if it was necessary so, at least I had something to do today! The rear ones are rusted in place. And them shocks need to be replaced! I guess that means another appointment at JLR next week... Well, it'll only cost me 200 bucks or so.

And I need new tires, one has un ugly slit at the inside wall. Stuff you discover when under the car I guess...
 
Is it the case that the top rubber bushes on the rears are rusted to the brackets?
If so, cut the shock off (by cutting through the round bit at the end) & deal with the rubbers.
You MIGHT find that the long pin on the bracket where the rubbers sit is well corroded.
If that is the case then you need to replace the bracket - and removal might reveal chassis corrosion.
Fun things these Range Rovers:(

You might also find the hole on the axle bracket that the bottom of the shock goes through is corroded & much bigger than it should be.
Easily sorted if you have a mig to hand.......(Fortunately I do!)
 
Last edited:
It is the bottom nut that just won't go off. Already had the angle grinder in hand, when I figured that doing that right under the fuel tank is maybe not such a good idea...

Just came back from a test drive, turns out I prefer the old front shocks, so I'll train my front shock fitting skills tomorrow a little bit more. If anyone is interested in a pair of Bilstein front shocks, driven for 20 km or so, just let me know!
 
Use the angle grinder & a cutting disc through the nut. Just be careful. Worked for me - on both sides.
Happily I only needed to weld up the bottom bracket on one.
And jamesmartin is spot on re the strap wrench - I have one for oil filters.
 
Thanks for the tips, will try the strap wrench as well. The angle grinder will have to wait until next week so, bank holidays and grinders don't go well together! The right one looks ok, the other one is pretty rusted.

That's how the back looks like. IMG_20200530_141225.jpg
 
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