The silencer on this looks a bit different than the one in the first post.

Looks like the bits to me:)

This is the back ground to the problem main one is the compressor.
Now you know the parts can be got, you can pull the broken silencer out and clean out the crap and see if you can get the compressor going again. check for power and blown fuses etc.

If you win you just need the silencer/ pipe set, if not you need to spend more cash, or you could just convert to springs.:blabla:
 
Looks like the bits to me:)

If you win you just need the silencer/ pipe set, if not you need to spend more cash, or you could just convert to springs.:blabla:

I hope u dont think i have the problem here m8.....i have just butted in trying to help kristinjaksic.....my SLS is fine:)
 
ok...so just got work from my friend the mechanic and he said compressor is fine, fuses are good...he fixed the cannister up/sealed crack etc and turned on ignition and nothing!!

He is going to switch L and R height sensors right now and see if that helps....

What else could it be? Unless the cannister needs to be AIR TIGHT not siliconed up etc..

Is there a way to manually pump up airbags??

I really appreciate everyones help with my situation!!!!!!
 
Did he start the car rather than just turn the ignition on engine needs to be Running with all doors shut
 
ok...so just got work from my friend the mechanic and he said compressor is fine, fuses are good...he fixed the cannister up/sealed crack etc and turned on ignition and nothing!!

He is going to switch L and R height sensors right now and see if that helps....

What else could it be? Unless the cannister needs to be AIR TIGHT not siliconed up etc..

Is there a way to manually pump up airbags??

I really appreciate everyones help with my situation!!!!!!

I the compressor is really fine(though i'm wondering how the mechanic knew that if he didnt make it work......cos if he could have made it work he would have inflated the bags:rolleyes:).....anyway, to inflate tem manually make an improvisation with wires as to feed directly the air supply valves and the compressor at the same time. For that u have to remove the compressor housing cover, unplug the air supply valves and the compressor plug then wire up in parallel all the three input plugs in the compressor assy and give them direct feed from the battery.....be very carefull when the height is normal stop feeding them cos it will overinflate...if accidentally u over inflate the bags then unplug the exhaust valve and feed this one untill it drops to normal......if u go to a scrapyard and get hold of these kind of plugs u can make a wiring improvisation which will help u manually infate and deflate the bags like this., here u have the scheme in case u dont have RAVE(3'rd post) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/td5-2000-air-compressor-137241.html , if u have RAVE then u can try to diagnose it this way >>


open RAVE at Rear suspension> Description SLS and go forward untill u see the SLS ECU connector pin details(page 1023 of 1672, 64-18....if there is the same RAVE variant....but it must be in any RAVE)... how to reach the ECU it's shown in Brakes > Repairs > ECU

Now... u have to pull out C0655 and check for earth on pins 1 and 2 with a door /taildoor open then with all doors and taildoor closed the earth must dissapear

If there is no earth with all the doors/taildoor closed on both pins 1 and 2(cos if it is the ECU thinks a door or taildoor is open) put the connector back start the engin, push ORM and check for +12V on pin 6 (u must be able to do it from behind where the wire enters the connector). If there is +12V it means it's a wiring issue untill the relay...if 12v is missing then the guy from the garage was right and u need a new ECU.

In case of wiring fault open Electrical library > Description and operation > Self levelling and anti lock brake systems and u can follow the connectors along the circuit...the pointed connectors are detailed with pics in Connector views ...

Good luck
 
ok...so just got work from my friend the mechanic and he said compressor is fine, fuses are good...he fixed the cannister up/sealed crack etc and turned on ignition and nothing!!

He is going to switch L and R height sensors right now and see if that helps....

What else could it be? Unless the cannister needs to be AIR TIGHT not siliconed up etc..

Is there a way to manually pump up airbags??

I really appreciate everyones help with my situation!!!!!!

If you are saying the compressor is working Could it be that the canister has two internal compartments and they are now leaking between each other? it could just be pumping round and not building pressure?
 
If you are saying the compressor is working Could it be that the canister has two internal compartments and they are now leaking between each other? it could just be pumping round and not building pressure?

The man said "turned on ignition and nothing!!" ...i suppose that means that the compressor is not working(u can hear it if it works)... everything i wrote is for that situation.....cos if the compressor is pumping then u might be right.
 
I agree with Sierrafery. How does the mechanic know the compresor is fine if the bags are not inflating. And If it was me that cannistor would have been replaced or bypassed at the start of this to rule it out of the equation. Silicon..WTF are you trying to achieve with that.:confused:
 
lol mEEGO.... your last comment made me laugh. ANyways, he tested the compressor with a voltmeter...so I assume there was electricity going to it.

The cannister thing that was cracked is what he siliconed. Was able to get ahold of land rover parts and they said that it would take 4 days for air pipe harness to come in. My cracked cannister thing looks different from the air pipe but at least it does the same thing. Is there a way to bypass the cannister altogether? I believe my friend put on T pipes on the air pipes and ran it through the broken cannister and then siliconed the cannister up.

Questiion.....is the silicone strong enough to hold air in the cannister? Perhaps that is the reason why the compressor turns on and then stops after a few seconds...is it because it recognises that the cannister is not air tight and has a leak?

I just wish I had more information on the stupid mystery cannister....Does it need to be air tight and will silicone make it air tight??

Thanks for manual inflation info!!
 
Does anyone know how to bypass the cannister?
If it was mine I would mark it up for orentation cut it in half as it is ( fu*ked) broken and work out where the lines come in and go out cut the ends and joint them. hook it up and see what happens.
Worst case it does not work and you have to wait four days, best case you can get the thing to pump up and you have your Disco back and run it while waiting for the bits.

Once you have done this you can up load the photos and info to us all. then when one of us hits the same problem you will be the main man.

Hope you can get it to run:)
 
From what u said before i understood that the compressor is not working at all:doh:.......anyway untill a new pipe assy is coming to u , cut the pipes, throw away the silencer and put a piece of proper diameter tube instead of it and fix it with clamps.... it's no big pressure there just air flowing through(.... at least on the intake pipe cos that one has a filter at the other end(it's behind the LH tail lamp....u bette order one of this too cos it might be clogged)....the exhaust pipe could remain short for a while.
It's strange anyway that the compressor stops after some seconds.....before u do anything look at the scheme of the assy in the link i gave u and disconnect the intake and exhaust hoses (3 and 7...they are easy fit types..pull the ring and it'll come out) .... then start the car...if the comressor will stop again that means u have a height controll or management issue....or even the compressor itself is fu**ed.
 
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lol mEEGO.... your last comment made me laugh. ANyways, he tested the compressor with a voltmeter...so I assume there was electricity going to it.

The cannister thing that was cracked is what he siliconed. Was able to get ahold of land rover parts and they said that it would take 4 days for air pipe harness to come in. My cracked cannister thing looks different from the air pipe but at least it does the same thing. Is there a way to bypass the cannister altogether? I believe my friend put on T pipes on the air pipes and ran it through the broken cannister and then siliconed the cannister up.

Questiion.....is the silicone strong enough to hold air in the cannister? Perhaps that is the reason why the compressor turns on and then stops after a few seconds...is it because it recognises that the cannister is not air tight and has a leak?

I just wish I had more information on the stupid mystery cannister....Does it need to be air tight and will silicone make it air tight??

Thanks for manual inflation info!!

Glad you have a sense of humour mate. You need it on here sometimes...well most of the time actually..:)
 
sierra,

Could you explain step by step how to manually inflate? What kind of wire would I need to connect to battery? And when I do connect......do I touch positive or negative.

please and thanks!
 
The intake and exhaust pipes which are crossing the silencer are not under pressure....but as i said before u cut everything u must be sure the compressor will not stop with intake and exhaust disconnected. To inflate the bags from "outside" i say again watch the scheme to see which is which...unplug all connectors in the compressor assy ...all those plugs have a black(earth) and a two coloured(+) wire...."hook" the 3 earths together and the 3 (+) together from the LH, RH air intake valves and the compressor......take two longer wires and connect + to the + of the compressor and valves wire and (-) to earth if the compressor and the valves are faultless it will start to inflate...stop feeding it when the height is normal(u dont want to blow the bags, do u?)...now read again my previous post about what to watch or how to deflate if overinflated......i cant be clearer then this, sorry
 
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Hi Guys, The inlet and outlet unions on the compressor are not pressurised or airtight have no 'O' rings or brass fittings. The nylon clips are hardly water tight or even airtight therefore the cannister does not need to be totally pressure sensitive.

Tommo
 

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