2.0_hippo

Well-Known Member
As title really, had a little search and im just trying to confirm my problem i am experiencing.

since owning my 2002 TD6 i have noticed that when traveling along and you hit a rut or bump in the road my drivers side suspension makes a knock / clonk noise. i believe from searching about it could be worn bushes on the track control bars / wishbones ?

as when getting my front tyres changed my garage told me it looks like there was a lot of movement there.

does this sound right to you ? i havent managed to have a good look at the condition of them yet but does anyone know the best way to check if there is a lot of movement within the bushes ?

(jack it up and try to twist the wheel ?)

am i right in thinking there are two arms per wheel (top and bottom)

i understand i can buy the complete arm with bushes installed, are they pretty easy to fit yourself ? and should i change both left and right sides of the car at once ?

i have no history of the bushes ever being changed, the cars on 140k now so it could be time to change them :confused:


Sorry for the questions, and i hope someone can help me out.


much appreciated guys
2.0_hippo ;)
 
Last edited:
im out in your home town tonite,, give me a call later or in morning. and we can sort a time out.
 
ok on the front suspension there is
inner track rods both side
outer track rod ends
front and rear lower arm ball joints

rear suspension
lower and upper hub carrier bushs
track control arms

most coman is the inner track rods if the tyres are wearing hard on the inner edges
 
Morning chaps, new here but been active on rr.net and fullfat for a while.

2.0_Hippo.

Did you trace your knock?

I've got one on the nearside of my L322.

Done all the obvious (reduced to shotgun mechanicing), ARB links, both arms, complete strut, outer track rod end, but still knocking over potholes and manhole covers.

Losing the will, and running out of inspiration.

Any thoughts appreciated.

David
 
Morning chaps, new here but been active on rr.net and fullfat for a while.

2.0_Hippo.

Did you trace your knock?

I've got one on the nearside of my L322.

Done all the obvious (reduced to shotgun mechanicing), ARB links, both arms, complete strut, outer track rod end, but still knocking over potholes and manhole covers.

Losing the will, and running out of inspiration.

Any thoughts appreciated.

David


Shock absorbers can develop a knock:)
 
Morning chaps, new here but been active on rr.net and fullfat for a while.

2.0_Hippo.

Did you trace your knock?

I've got one on the nearside of my L322.

Done all the obvious (reduced to shotgun mechanicing), ARB links, both arms, complete strut, outer track rod end, but still knocking over potholes and manhole covers.

Losing the will, and running out of inspiration.

Any thoughts appreciated.

David

Hi,

Well I checked and found that my lower suspension arm was worn, so I changed this and the knocking was reduced but a slight knock still exists.

I think my upper arm needs changing also.
 
Shock absorbers can develop a knock

Interesting. My gut feel is that the new strut (including shock) may be faulty. No cheap or easy way of telling that I can see though, save throwing another strut at it...

Hope upper arm sorts yours hippo, will keep an eye on this thread.

David
 
I only have just put a brand new strut with air bag on the side that was knocking as my air bag split.

It didn't make any difference to the knocking Noise. So shock was not causing it in my situation
 
Understood.

Was your knock identical before and after the strut change?

I changed a strut chasing the knock, and though I think the knock got better it did not go completely.

Was your strut direct from LR?

David
 
Hi
It was the drivers side strut I changed, it was a Dunlop one not Land rover.
Landrover ones where 3 times the price.

The knock was a lot better after I changed the suspension arm.
My steering also improved as the bushes where very worn.

I only get knocking when I hit large pot holes whereas before any small bump in the road caused it to knock.
 
i have just bought the latest chassis ear for this kind of problem dont want to charge a fortune just swapping parts on the disco3 it pays for its self in days and replace what is at fault not a cheap kit but well worth it
 
Re-awakening this as I can't find an L322 upper and lower ball joint replacement thread. Anyone done this, is there a special tool, or is it heat it and hope?
 
Are you doing just the fronts??

If so there is only a lower ball joint....ball joint replacement is the same process as any other...needs to be split out of the socket and then unbolted from the bottom of the hub by the looks of it...

I trust you have RAVE!!
 

Similar threads