J

Jelbear

New Member
Had a bit of a mare with an oil change over the weekend, feels/looks like the sump plug thread is on it's last legs.

Have managed to get hold of a replacement sump for next to nothing, rather than going down the helicoil route.

I have a couple of questions though

1. Rave makes the removal of the sump seem quite simple (1995 P38 4.6 HSE), other than it being a very messy job, anything I should look out for, do? Any tips?

2. When I'm refitting the new sump, Rave says to use Hylosil type 101 or 106 sealant. I can't seem to find the stuff anywhere.

Does anyone know of a suitable replacement gasket sealant?

Cheers

James
 
Just use RTV Silicone type sealant which is available from Motor Factors. Make sure that the mating faces are completely free of oil traces, use White Spirit or Petrol to make sure.
 
Jelbear said:
Had a bit of a mare with an oil change over the weekend, feels/looks like the sump plug thread is on it's last legs.

Have managed to get hold of a replacement sump for next to nothing, rather than going down the helicoil route.

I have a couple of questions though

1. Rave makes the removal of the sump seem quite simple (1995 P38 4.6 HSE), other than it being a very messy job, anything I should look out for, do? Any tips?

2. When I'm refitting the new sump, Rave says to use Hylosil type 101 or 106 sealant. I can't seem to find the stuff anywhere.

Does anyone know of a suitable replacement gasket sealant?

Cheers

James
Click to expand...

Hylomar best sealant for engines by a mile. RTV is ok also but can be messy. Hylosil is just silicone Hylomar.
 
Agreed, but the sump has a strengthening rib along the flanges which can become slightly distorted when the bolts are tightened and this creates slight gaps which Hylomar cannot seal.
RTV copes with these small discrepancies and is an excellent sealant against oil provided that the surfaces are 100% oil free before application.
When I built up the new engine over 4 years ago, I sealed the sump with RTV and it's still bone dry.....unusual for a Land Rover!!!
:behindsofa:
 
That's the stuff but you would get a cartridge from a motor factors for the same price that you are paying them robbing bastids for a toothpaste size tube.
:eek:
 
Having a crisis of confidence

Am I going to be able to do this on my drive with some axel stands. Will they give me enough clearance to get the sump out?

Or should I just bite the bullet and get the local garage to do it?

I can see refitting the sump being a real pain in the arse, using one hand to hold it place the other to scabble for the bolts, while trying not to let it move for fear of messing up the silicon gasket bead, all while laying on your back.
 
It took me just as long to get the car high enough to do the job (let the axel drop down out of the way far enough) as it did to do all the rest of the job!
 
The sump is not that heavy, raise the car to high profile, open the upper tailgate, place a couple of axle stands under the chassis for safety and the sump will come out easily.
 
Sorry for all the questions

How long should I wait after refitting the sump before refilling with oil and running, does the sealant need a length of time to go off?



cheers

James
 
Jelbear said:
Having a crisis of confidence

Am I going to be able to do this on my drive with some axel stands. Will they give me enough clearance to get the sump out?

Or should I just bite the bullet and get the local garage to do it?

I can see refitting the sump being a real pain in the arse, using one hand to hold it place the other to scabble for the bolts, while trying not to let it move for fear of messing up the silicon gasket bead, all while laying on your back.
Click to expand...


Jel, last time I did a sump (On a Disco) I did as Irish & Fett have said Taint a long job ...BUT.... to make life a little easier I borrowed my sons Mini Trolly jack ( Bout 10 quid from the local DIY store) got the sump into postion & then jacked up the jack with a lump of wood to hold it in position that left BOTH HANDS FREE to get the bolts in

But just remember when bolting up its DIAGONAL tightening until the final NIP!!!
 
Give it about an hour before you fill and run it. Remember not to put loads on as 99% of it will squash out, therefore, there is only a very thin bead which will cure quite quickly once you have bolted up. There is information on RAVE regarding the bead size to put on.
 
Irishrover said:
Agreed, but the sump has a strengthening rib along the flanges which can become slightly distorted when the bolts are tightened and this creates slight gaps which Hylomar cannot seal.
RTV copes with these small discrepancies and is an excellent sealant against oil provided that the surfaces are 100% oil free before application.
When I built up the new engine over 4 years ago, I sealed the sump with RTV and it's still bone dry.....unusual for a Land Rover!!!
:behindsofa:
Click to expand...

Yes if there is distortion maybe best to use silicone, but there are methods of applying Hylomar that will seal almost any gap. Trick is to apply it and wait for half an hour for solvents to evaporate then fit part nip up finger tight then wait another half hour then snug up. On second thoughts use bloody silicone.
 
I think I am going to have to change the sump gasket on my P38 4.6 V8.

When I enquired about buying a replacement at a local indie landrover specialist I was told I dont need one, just use a bead of sealant.

Can anyone confirm whether this is a good idea?

Personally I'm sceptical and would rather replace the gasket and use sealant as detailed previously in this topic.

Steve
 
would hurt most sumps and components are siliconed on with appropiate sealer ,gasket is avaiable lvf100400
 
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