GingerPuss · Aug 19, 2016

Hi folks

I have finished the annual service on my '99 D2 TD5.
Last year (after I bought it) I noticed the sump plug had been rounded off by a previous owner/mechanic. I was prepared this year with a new drain plug and an Irwin bolt remover.

The bolt remover works really well and managed to grip and bite into the rounded plug. The problem was that even with a lengthy breaker bar, it wouldn't turn (the bar was bending with the force). I know I could have put more torque on it, but it occurred to me that one of two things might happen if I did:

The drain plug would shear off leaving me with a real problem
The drain plug might turn and come out - but could be cross-threaded which would mean my new drain plug would not go on without the hole being drilled and tapped (in which case I would need another size of drain plug)

I decided to suck the oil out again like last year using a pump that goes down the dipstick tube. I got 7L out.
How likely is it that my two scenarios above could happen? Am I looking at needing a new sump or should I gamble with applying more force with the breaker bar? Or maybe let sleeping Rovers lie and keep on using the pump!
Also, why the F*** is the oil filter canister so hard to put ON (it came off OK with the special toothed ring tool) but I spent ages fiddling with a mirror to spin the new one on. Does anyone make a remote oil filter kit?

Cheers.

Ipcress · Aug 19, 2016

Sorry to begin with `another problem`, but as you don`t know the condition of the sump inside `goo` wise, it really has to come off as I found out earlier this year. Its far better to have a clean sump even if you need to replace it in the process this time, otherwise each oil change on an old Landy is virtually pointless due to the built up baked on carbon deposits avec accompanying sludge in said sump which mix `nicely` with your new oil and filter that you`ve just spent time and money on. No pump up the dipstick or wherever will clear that. If however that`s `not an issue`, and I can`t believe it would be if only you knew what your sump could look like inside potentially having never come off before, I`d still go for it as it just ain`t right not being able to properly drain ones Landy sump (just sayin`..).

Not sure how many different TD5 sumps there are (if any) but here`s one currently on fleabay for £45 or so:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...418224?hash=item236c374a70:g:MBIAAOSwOVpXWmj8

So, definitely go the whole way applying more force to the sump plug... and if it is sheared and/or otherwise, get a new sump which will come all nice clean and shiny for you. And its worth remembering that even if you do get the plug out and its okay and think all the oil is drained ... much of the sludge and deposits remain, even a flush will not remove it all; believe it.

Pictures of my sump before and after cleanup are here : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-9i-look-what-i-found-in-the-sump.298199/page-2

Rgds

GingerPuss · Aug 20, 2016

Ipcress said:
Sorry to begin with `another problem`, but as you don`t know the condition of the sump inside `goo` wise, it really has to come off as I found out earlier this year. Its far better to have a clean sump even if you need to replace it in the process this time, otherwise each oil change on an old Landy is virtually pointless due to the built up baked on carbon deposits avec accompanying sludge in said sump which mix `nicely` with your new oil and filter that you`ve just spent time and money on. No pump up the dipstick or wherever will clear that. If however that`s `not an issue`, and I can`t believe it would be if only you knew what your sump could look like inside potentially having never come off before, I`d still go for it as it just ain`t right not being able to properly drain ones Landy sump (just sayin`..).

Not sure how many different TD5 sumps there are (if any) but here`s one currently on fleabay for £45 or so:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...418224?hash=item236c374a70:g:MBIAAOSwOVpXWmj8

So, definitely go the whole way applying more force to the sump plug... and if it is sheared and/or otherwise, get a new sump which will come all nice clean and shiny for you. And its worth remembering that even if you do get the plug out and its okay and think all the oil is drained ... much of the sludge and deposits remain, even a flush will not remove it all; believe it.

Pictures of my sump before and after cleanup are here : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-9i-look-what-i-found-in-the-sump.298199/page-2

Rgds

Cheers Ipcress. I have no idea whether the crucial oil pump pulley bolt has been checked for tightness and threadlocked - so I may remove the sump to sort out both issues. I could always re-sell the replacement sump if I manage to get the original sump plug out with no issues.

sierrafery · Aug 21, 2016

If i was you I'd try this https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/lub...reeze-and-release-400ml-aerosol/p/LOC7258040W , i've used it in many similar issues and in 90% of cases worked a treat, at that price even if it doesnt help in this particular case it's good to have it within reach IMO

Gordy88 · Aug 21, 2016

Remove the sump.

Take to a small engineering shop for plug removal.

If threads OK, job done. If not, he can drill it out and re-tap it, and then run you up a suitable sump plug.

Cheers

Dipsterson · Aug 22, 2016

+1 on the above

I had same issue and found a replacement sump going cheap on e-bay. Wanted to make sure it was right and had a good clean.
Also an ideal opportunity to check/replace the oil pump bolt as there have been some issues with them - http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html

GingerPuss

Active Member

Ipcress

Member

GingerPuss

Active Member

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

Gordy88

Active Member

Dipsterson

Member

Similar threads