So the "mudball/slug" will be going in the garage soon(if 3 months is soon) for its summer service & general TLC.

The MOT man has been waggling his finger at me about the brakes for the last couple of years. So now is the year.
I have non vented on now and everything is standard. (1996 2.0MPI). But dont let that fool you.
I have looked at possible pros/cons with fitting vented (apart from needing calipers) and have thought probably not the best way to go. I don't do cleaning very often

So I have thought drilled and/or grooved discs?
Probably get a caliper piston rebuild with SS pistons (less postage/import costs) than just getting new calipers.

Obviously I would get new wheel bearings and seals in at the same time.

So thoughts on brakes please.
I also need a reliable source, as sending stuff back is not the easiest option for me so would rather get the right stuff first time so willing to not go to evilbay, and only pay once.

Thanks for any thoughts.

J

If using Landy in the rough like in your avatar stick with plain discs, grooves/holes just fill with mud. The idea with grooves/holes in discs is to help cool them when worked hard. Hardly an issue with a Landy for most users.

I'd clean and check the calipers for deterioration of the bores before buying new pistons.

marjon said:

So I have thought drilled and/or grooved discs?

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As post 2 - if they are gonna get mucky, then drilled/grooved will fill with crud - and rust, and you'll need to replace them before they are worn out...

marjon said:

Probably get a caliper piston rebuild with SS pistons

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Good call provided the caliper bores are in good order - so +1 on post 3, AND you change the brake fluid regularly, to keep the bores in good order...

marjon said:

Obviously I would get new wheel bearings and seals in at the same time.

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Why? my wheel bearings have done 150K, SWMBO's 120K - I clean and regrease them every couple of years, with proper grease, and they go again... If you feel the need to replace them as a pre-emptive strike, or as some sort of "cost saving" measure, then ONLY Timken, and only Castrol Pyroplex Red grease... Seals ? ONLY Corteco.

Actual brakes - I use Br*tpart XS or Mintex discs, and Delphi OE pads - which are the correct shape..

Suppliers for you ? not sure really, but what about Paddocks ? seem to do quite a bit of export ?

Plus one with the wheel bearings as above. Mine have done 180K.

Thanks for the input guys.

I had wondered about mud in the grooves/holes which was why I discounted the vented. So yes as it does get driven in the stuff you see in the avatar, so just stick with the solid standard, got to be better than what I have and keep MOT man happy.
I have about 150k in miles (240k klm) on it and no history of maintenance what's so ever. So for the £20ish a corner I figured it maybe a good thing to do while I am there, but those prices seem to be britpart. So may just see if I can get decent 1s local, there are a couple of bearings shops that have the timken signs dotted about so if I could get the size may be worth a shot.

Wheel bearings thoughts were the same as for the pistons Its a bit of, " if I am in there don't need to be in it again soon" type thing, for the price of those parts.

The luxury I don't have is getting a part "tomorrow" if I suddenly come up short, consequently the car is off the road for another 2 weeks to get the parts. So I have to think worst case without going stupid, Difficult to do sometimes.

Yes have used Paddocks for the P38 last year, and it was a good service as they did all the import docs and tax, so will use them again.

Thanks again guys, more thinking needed, and perhaps a day in the garage to check, cos I think a couple of UJs may go on the list too.

J

The standard solid land rover brakes should be very good. It is well worth a caliper refurb and fitting stainless pistons, just make sure you use oem piston seals and retaining rings. At the same time inspect the flexi hoses and replace if required, if replacing anyway I would fit braided versions personally. If after that the brakes are still not feeling good with a firm pedal feel then it is time for a new master cylinder. Usually the first issue with brakes assuming you have good quality disc and pads is caliper pistons corrode and begin to stick, hence caliper rebuild is the first port of call. If you end up buying new replacement calipers I would still rebuild them with stainless pistons before using them as it will hugely increase the maintenance free life span of the caliper.

tottot said:

If using Landy in the rough like in your avatar stick with plain discs, grooves/holes just fill with mud. The idea with grooves/holes in discs is to help cool them when worked hard. Hardly an issue with a Landy for most users.

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Grooves and holes in a disc allows escape of gases and other brake particles given off under hard braking. In the absence of somewhere to go, they would remain between the pad and the disc, impacting performance.
Pads can get very hot very easily, especially on heavy cars and/or cars driven hard

marjon said:

Wheel bearings thoughts were...

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Don't forget the tab washers! - in fact buy more than you need, because....

Probably worth getting a spare nut or two anorl - they are cheap enough..