02Disco2

02Disco2

Well-Known Member
Hi & Happy New Year all!!

1 of the things on my “to do” list before the next MOT is to replace the rear brake pipes, one of which is corroded and has been covered (flagged on the last 2 MOTs) and has been in that state since I bought it.

Searching online I’m thinking that buying a length of replacement brake pipe and the tools to bend/fit it is probably the best/cheapest option but can anyone recommend a decent pipe/supplier and also is this a sensible DIY option?
I’m not a mechanic by any stretch but since buying the disco I’ve had to learn a a fair few new skills so I’m not adverse to giving this a go but as its the brakes I don’t want to start something that is way out of my league especially as its the brakes!

Cheers in advance,
Si
 
Brake flaring kit.

And a good stock of Kunifer brake pipe, with the appropriate "ends" can't think of the name :rolleyes::D

Pipe cutter is also required, ;) :D

It's fiddly not really difficult in a capability sense, you just need patience. :cool:
 
After you've bought the flaring tool & pipe, make a few practice flares on short lengths of pipe to get the hang of it before you commit to flaring the end of the pipe you've spent time bending round the various "obstacles" under the car & then cut to the optimum length.
It's never good to wreck the final flare & then have to cut the pipe shorter to remove it & find the pipe then is too short to be of use - lol.
 
A kit like this off evilbay will be good enough to do the whole vehicle:-

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362172180875

But, if you're thinking of doing more maintenance on other vehicles, then a better flaring kit might be required - certainly I have a sykes pikavant flaring tool which I'd highly recommend - a search on here should find you other flaring tools which folk recommend.

If you want to buy bits separately, then here's the pipe supplier I use:-

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302473434923

IMO only use cunifer / kunifer / copper nickel pipe - do NOT use (pure) copper pipe it is too soft, and when work hardened becomes brittle - this is my opinion, and is also what I do - YMMV.
 
I taught myself pipe making. Practice makes perfect. Buy a range of end fittings, and through connectors. Also, practice double flares, and bubble flares...
Stick them in a small tool box, and keep them on the shelf. Always handy to have. Kunifer better than copper, and also buy a small pipe bender/former as it makes the pipes look more pleasing to the eye...

100% copper is better for small pieces of pipe, as its a little more flexible... kunifer, better for long runs, as it holds its shape better, and resists sagging.
 
Like said, Cunifer is the way to go. If I'm not mistaken, I used 3/16 OD when I did mine. Get yourself a good cutter (I had a Sealey VS0350), a pipe reamer and a quality flaring tool such as Laser 6728. I found it easier to first install the new pipes and fittings and then flare on site. You will also need a pipe bending tool and probably a few P clips too. I'd also replace the flexible pipes when you're there and a diag tool that can bleed the system (including the ABS mod) would make life much easier.
 
100% on the brake pipe flexi's... did my lads 05 BMW and they were all seized due to rust, where the brake pipe connected to the flexi pipes...

Which now gives you the dilemma.... standard or stainless steel braided...
 
tilly2 said:
100% on the brake pipe flexi's... did my lads 05 BMW and they were all seized due to rust, where the brake pipe connected to the flexi pipes...

Which now gives you the dilemma.... standard or stainless steel braided...
Click to expand...
Sorry, my last reply auto corrected badly! Have a 6pc set of stainless braided pipes waiting to be fitted
 
tilly2 said:
Which now gives you the dilemma.... standard or stainless steel braided...
Click to expand...

I went for Goodridge stainless steel braided but it's too early to say if they're at least as good as the original ones, which lasted 18 years !
 
NPG said:
I went for Goodridge stainless steel braided but it's too early to say if they're at least as good as the original ones, which lasted 18 years !
Click to expand...
I looked at the goodridge set having always used them on my bikes - went for the 6pc set from Extreme 4x4 in the end having bought springs from them for the front - the pipes on there are original too, 18 yrs old!!
 
One thing that annoyed me with the Goodridge pipes is that they don't have the key that locks into the caliper to prevent them from turning. Not sure if this is done by design or by omission but without the key, it takes more effort to straighten the pipe and tighten down the banjo bolt so everything clamps into place and stays put. Maybe this is not such a big issue with the rear brakes but the ones in the front experience constant lateral movement and can come loose if not tightened properly.
 
As all have said "Practice makes perfect!! Had to do my old Freelander! And had 3-4 goes before running pipes under with bending tool! And fixing! If memory serves me right! I had about 6-8 inches left at the ends to do to the flaring?? Will have do my D2 some time this year as I did notice them just before it's MOT and they are in need of replacement??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
Disco 2 brake question
Replies
5
Views
640
landynutterme
L
F
Disco 3 (LR3) Dreaded Limp Mode - Suggestions?
Replies
10
Views
918
sierrafery
sierrafery
L
SEPERATING BRAKE CALIPERS - WHY IS THIS A NO NO??
Replies
2
Views
484
Pawl
Pawl
T
Rebuild dual line brake master cylinder
Replies
10
Views
908
tottot
tottot
D
ACE pipe.
Replies
14
Views
1K
sierrafery
sierrafery