You mustn't move the shaft after it is off. In order to get it off you may need a second person in the car wobbling the steering side-to-side.
Some people seem to manage without taking the intermediate shaft out but damned if I could get in there without taking it out. Maybe I need more tools!
The only reason I can see a stud being necessary is if access is tight.
Movement of the wheel while disconnected can damage the clock spring
No, cos sometimes there's not enough space to pull off the stud. The downpipe conection is fine as its
Think you are searching wrong, I would take a guess at 10x1 or 10x 1.5(unlikely). But I dont have any idea of the size, but will soon as am about to attack some myself
Putting a bolt in would work till you try and bend your arm to do it up and god help the next person to have to take it off
.J
My PO did that (ie used a bolt) worked absolutely fine... I'd go stainless though
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Only if you wind the wheel round and round
Fairly sure they are M10x1.25 but not sure. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/exhaust-downpipe-stud-disco-err551l-lr009704-lr009704g-p-7603.html
When I replaced mine, I used non-ferrous nuts, so they shouldn't rust again. . . . . but it is a LR.
When I replaced mine, I used non-ferrous nuts, so they shouldn't rust again. . . . . but it is a LR.
Disco? We are talking P38, not to say they are not the same though
.Got to love it though 3 needed for each flange and it’s a 5 pack
.J
Guys, the advice has been amazing, thank you ! So as an update good progress has been made. No need to remove manifold , steering shaft etc as I have had my first bit of good luck on my exhaust journey and after drilling out the old stud the new one screwed back in perfectly All studs ready and present to reconnect y-pipe (and rest of new exhaust system in place). To avoid any last minute errors could anyone help me with which way up the gasket between manifold and y-pipe goes .. it has a ridge , rather than being flat, and just want to make sure.
On a total side issue for future reference, when looking at the intermediate steering shaft which a view to remove, the head of the bolt to the steering shaft was to the left (if looking from the front of the car). Is this normal as it seems virtually impossible to get a socket or spanner to it and is also the opposite way round in Rave? Would be simple to remove if head to right,
Thanks again for all the help
All studs ready and present to reconnect y-pipe (and rest of new exhaust system in place). To avoid any last minute errors could anyone help me with which way up the gasket between manifold and y-pipe goes .. it has a ridge , rather than being flat, and just want to make sure.On a total side issue for future reference, when looking at the intermediate steering shaft which a view to remove, the head of the bolt to the steering shaft was to the left (if looking from the front of the car). Is this normal as it seems virtually impossible to get a socket or spanner to it and is also the opposite way round in Rave? Would be simple to remove if head to right,
Thanks again for all the help
Why did we stop using brass nuts??
badfluffy
Well-Known Member
when we run out of brass monkeys
Got to love it though 3 needed for each flange and it’s a 5 pack
J
I can beat that. I needed nuts for something when I was doing head on the M51 engine. I needed 12 nuts and Land Rover only sell in packs of 10 and the dealer refused to split the pack because " we don't work on anything that old". So I have 8 spares somewhere. B*st*rds. They charge enough as it is.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
So go to a nut and bolt supplier next time and you also get the benefit of not paying JLR stupid money.
Didn't have time to f*ck about and there was something odd about them. Westfield Fasteners aren't far from me and have most things if I have time. They do online as well.
