Thanks @kermit_rr. In the end with the amount of work to remove the manifold and potential of more broken studs/bolts I decided to drill the stud out in situ which was a pita but all done now. I don't have a tap set and can't seem to find a m10x5mm tap on line. Do you know if Is there any reason I can't use a nut and bolt in place of a stud assuming it can be torqued to the right setting? The other two connections would be studs?
I can't answer, not sure.. rave page if it helps...
upload_2023-2-14_14-5-23.png
 
Thanks @kermit_rr. Will definitely go through the wheel arch. I've been reading up regarding removing the intermediate shaft which I've not done before. I've seen some comments about tying the steering wheel to prevent it turning. Also making sure the steering lock isn't on. I didn't see any of these in Rave. When you did the job did you have any issues with removing shaft or any tips that I should be aware off? Cheers

You mustn't move the shaft after it is off. In order to get it off you may need a second person in the car wobbling the steering side-to-side.

Some people seem to manage without taking the intermediate shaft out but damned if I could get in there without taking it out. Maybe I need more tools!
 
You mustn't move the shaft after it is off. In order to get it off you may need a second person in the car wobbling the steering side-to-side.

Some people seem to manage without taking the intermediate shaft out but damned if I could get in there without taking it out. Maybe I need more tools!
Movement of the wheel while disconnected can damage the clock spring
 
The only reason I can see a stud being necessary is if access is tight.

No, cos sometimes there's not enough space to pull off the stud. The downpipe conection is fine as its

I don't have a tap set and can't seem to find a m10x5mm tap on line.

Think you are searching wrong, I would take a guess at 10x1 or 10x 1.5(unlikely). But I dont have any idea of the size, but will soon as am about to attack some myself
Putting a bolt in would work till you try and bend your arm to do it up and god help the next person to have to take it off:eek:.

J
 
Thanks @kermit_rr. In the end with the amount of work to remove the manifold and potential of more broken studs/bolts I decided to drill the stud out in situ which was a pita but all done now. I don't have a tap set and can't seem to find a m10x5mm tap on line. Do you know if Is there any reason I can't use a nut and bolt in place of a stud assuming it can be torqued to the right setting? The other two connections would be studs?
My PO did that (ie used a bolt) worked absolutely fine... I'd go stainless though
 
Guys, the advice has been amazing, thank you ! So as an update good progress has been made. No need to remove manifold , steering shaft etc as I have had my first bit of good luck on my exhaust journey and after drilling out the old stud the new one screwed back in perfectly :) All studs ready and present to reconnect y-pipe (and rest of new exhaust system in place). To avoid any last minute errors could anyone help me with which way up the gasket between manifold and y-pipe goes .. it has a ridge , rather than being flat, and just want to make sure.

On a total side issue for future reference, when looking at the intermediate steering shaft which a view to remove, the head of the bolt to the steering shaft was to the left (if looking from the front of the car). Is this normal as it seems virtually impossible to get a socket or spanner to it and is also the opposite way round in Rave? Would be simple to remove if head to right,

Thanks again for all the help :)
 
Got to love it though 3 needed for each flange and it’s a 5 pack:rolleyes:.

J

I can beat that. I needed nuts for something when I was doing head on the M51 engine. I needed 12 nuts and Land Rover only sell in packs of 10 and the dealer refused to split the pack because " we don't work on anything that old". So I have 8 spares somewhere. B*st*rds. They charge enough as it is.
 
I can beat that. I needed nuts for something when I was doing head on the M51 engine. I needed 12 nuts and Land Rover only sell in packs of 10 and the dealer refused to split the pack because " we don't work on anything that old". So I have 8 spares somewhere. B*st*rds. They charge enough as it is.
So go to a nut and bolt supplier next time and you also get the benefit of not paying JLR stupid money.
 
So go to a nut and bolt supplier next time and you also get the benefit of not paying JLR stupid money.

Didn't have time to f*ck about and there was something odd about them. Westfield Fasteners aren't far from me and have most things if I have time. They do online as well.
 
A big thank you for all the help guys. All back together and looking good but I forgot to order new blanking nuts for the post cat o2 sensor holes and the old ones sheared straight off .... durrr :( So another few days until she's back on the road.
 

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