Land Raver
Well-Known Member
....and you can put the rug back in front of the fireplace now! 
There's the small problem of the oil filter outline in one corner. Now I've had time to drive it there are some intersting comparisons with the old engine. The old engine was clapped out but I thought it ran OK, now I have one which is pretty much new it really shows what is different:
Much quieter, what I assumed was diesel knock was the bottom end and pistons, I just thought "well Perkins are loud" but the new engine isn't loud.
Runs a lot cooler, so its wasting less fuel, should be more economical
Starts much faster - will start on first swing even with no throttle, the old engine needed a lot of throttle to start
I would now say if your diesel is noisy, hard to start and overheats don't waste time looking for faults, its probably time for a rebuild
Much quieter, what I assumed was diesel knock was the bottom end and pistons, I just thought "well Perkins are loud" but the new engine isn't loud.
Runs a lot cooler, so its wasting less fuel, should be more economical
Starts much faster - will start on first swing even with no throttle, the old engine needed a lot of throttle to start
I would now say if your diesel is noisy, hard to start and overheats don't waste time looking for faults, its probably time for a rebuild
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
I second that request.
OK. I had 16mm stud and used that to practice on the old engine, but this failed because the sleeves were chrome steel and very hard to get out even after I drove a screwdriver between the liner and block. The M16 stud was 6.6 but the nuts were soft and deformed seizing on the thread. I used a 100mm sq heavy washer - these are 6mm thick steel and filed one round by scibing round the piston plus 1mm - they come with a 20mm square hole. This was a long job of sawing and filing as I don't have a lathe, got it to within 10 thou. On top I had a 2" square heavy section across the bore packed on 4x2. It was clear it needed a bigger stud so I got M20 8.8 (1m) and the fastener place (Apex, Slough) recommended stud joiners not nuts, this was great advice - they are 6.6 but have loads more thread area and run really smooth. I got assorted washers and nuts in case. The new engine had the correct cast iron liners and keen to save the puller for getting them in I opted to make a 3/16 wedge (a curved screwdriver end) and drove this between the liners and bore, this worked really well and took a neat strip ou, it was made from some 3/16 / 5mm carbon steel rod from a sofabed liner. Only problem was keeping the metal chips out the crank, even wrapped in clingfilm bits got down the main bearing caps - in the end I washed and airlined out every possible crevice. Had I not had the airline fall back was jetwasher, bear in mind you can jet down the bores too.. The square blocks are 3/4" ally, but the square washer would do with some soft packing, the larger fits over the sleeve and the smaller drops down the bore and locks under the block. I honed the bare block to remove any dings. With boiling water in the block and sleeves from the freezer they would go in about 4" with a mallet and wood block and not much force. This made sure they were straight after that the temp had equalised and they had to be pulled. It took both hands on a 18" spanner to get them moving so there's probably 1/2 ton or more force but they go smoothly. I would back off every 1" or so to let the stud centralise. The M20 8.8 with the st
ud joiners showed no wear at the end so it was up to the job - all the fixings (stud, washers, joiners etc) were under £20.
