Heard that rumour myself, think its more likely people use easy start etc to get them out of a bind and then never get round to fixing the underlying problem
 
so my next step is either 24v start dont really want to do this of try and get a starting handle, because it goes to start but diue to the nature of the starter as soon as it starts to run it drops out and stops the engine so i think its needs abit more turn over onece it fires??
 
A mate had similar problems with a 300tdi he fitted into a series...in the end dragged it round and round and eventually it ran... But only after the rag his dad had left in the air intake had been combusted!
 
Second the check for inlet manifold leaks
Try varying the timing when it it trying to run.
Check compression.
Good luck
 
Just a long shot, but have you checked for 12v supply at coil when engine being cranked.
I have had problems in past when ignition switch gave 12v at normal running position but lost supply when ignition switch was at starting position.
 
yes there is 12v to the coil, using a seperate battery for the coil than the starter, and i would love to drag it up and down the road, but the bulkhead isnt fitted yet so only have the engine in, coil bolted crudely to engine block lol
 
If it's worse with the air filter on I would look for a blockage somewhere along the pipes, it's probably something stupid like a rag being left in a port when you were having it re-ground. Put in to stop Swarf getting in and overlooked on the rebuild.
Just be methodical and keep your temper, it's only a lump of metal after all, no malice or ill intentions, although I wonder sometimes.
That's my twopennorth anyway, good luck.
 
Guys thanks for all your help, i am a rodney!!..the problem was i did mark both pullies when stripping the engine, and once i thought about it, the camshaft wasnt marked and i must of put the pully back on at the right mark but the camshaft was out.....it now purrs like a kitten....thanks again
 

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