fredi250 · Jan 30, 2015

a

After a weeks wait new injector turns up start to remove old injector, wont move, try a sykes pickavant injector remover thats worked for me before still no joy leave soaking in plus gas over night no go.

whilst I am scratching my head and getting ready to do a Basil Fawlty my next door neighbour turns up with his brother who works for BMW who with German efficiency takes charge retightens retaining bolts then slacks of half turn then spins engine over then slacks of another half turn spins engine, another half turn and and spin and its out.
He then explains its the way they do it in the workshop all though not in the BMW workshop manuals.

So well worth a try if you have a sticking injector

Irishrover · Jan 30, 2015

fredi250 said:
a

After a weeks wait new injector turns up start to remove old injector, wont move, try a sykes pickavant injector remover thats worked for me before still no joy leave soaking in plus gas over night no go.

whilst I am scratching my head and getting ready to do a Basil Fawlty my next door neighbour turns up with his brother who works for BMW who with German efficiency takes charge retightens retaining bolts then slacks of half turn then spins engine over then slacks of another half turn spins engine, another half turn and and spin and its out.
He then explains its the way they do it in the workshop all though not in the BMW workshop manuals.

So well worth a try if you have a sticking injector

:behindsofa:
Good tip....very useful especially with the flimsy torx heads on the TD4 injector clamping/extraction bolts, which are prone to shearing off when you come to remove the injectors.

:clap2::clap2:

teddywood1 · Jan 30, 2015

great tip, and those bolts are expensive!

Bizzie · Jan 31, 2015

Good Idea but how do you stop diesel pumping out all over the place.

freelance · Jan 31, 2015

Leave the pipe connected

Bizzie · Jan 31, 2015

freelance said:
Leave the pipe connected

But then the pipe will get bent as the injector comes out.

Irishrover · Jan 31, 2015

All that is needed is to break the initial "Bite" where the rust around the injector shank is holding it to the bore in the cylinder head.
Regarding the studs...there is a lot of confusion amongst suppliers-including LR main stealers.
I bought a set last year from Brit-Car, they were genuine LR and cost around £30 for a set of 8. Some dealers are charging £30 each

I queried this with Brit-Car and they confirmed, after getting on to their main dealer supplier who confirmed 100% that the price is indeed £30 for a set of 8.

teddywood1 · Jan 31, 2015

they are indeed about £30 each from LR a kind man from our local LR place gave me 2 as they had been ordered for a job and were not needed I was not aware that anybody else sold them except main steelers.

bruno1926 · Jan 31, 2015

Good to know although it is an old trick Diesel fitters have been using for years, although some injectors just will not move at all then comes the big slide hammer and lots of swearing

kwondo · Mar 14, 2015

fredi250 said:
a

After a weeks wait new injector turns up start to remove old injector, wont move, try a sykes pickavant injector remover thats worked for me before still no joy leave soaking in plus gas over night no go.

whilst I am scratching my head and getting ready to do a Basil Fawlty my next door neighbour turns up with his brother who works for BMW who with German efficiency takes charge retightens retaining bolts then slacks of half turn then spins engine over then slacks of another half turn spins engine, another half turn and and spin and its out.
He then explains its the way they do it in the workshop all though not in the BMW workshop manuals.

So well worth a try if you have a sticking injector

Has any one else tried this method? sounds straight forward and I think it might work, as I will be having a go tomorrow. fingers crossed.

Diesel Do · Mar 14, 2015

Pretty similar to how I do it

gstuart · Mar 15, 2015

Diesel Do said:
Pretty similar to how I do it

prior to trying to undo the very small torx bits do u soak it with wd40 for a few hours

if they do snap is it a question of removing the broken stubs with either two nuts if there's enough left or mole grips

unless they smal level with the head and have to drill it out

reson is i may have to replace the camshaft rocker cover gasket and looks as though the injectors have to come out

I've re torqued the bolts all down , it's at the belt end where the oil has been letting by

Diesel Do · Mar 15, 2015

I get the engine hot first, it seems to make everything more free. It's the carbon that comes up the sides that glues the injectors in, if your seals aren't leaking you won't struggle as much. I loosen the injector bolts a couple of turns then run the engine, drink tea, listen for a change in tone, then remove it, the change in tone means it's moved off its seat and disturbed the carbon that's glueing it in. You then have to clean the hole out and get the seat spotless, I've got an injector seat cutter for that, it removes any damage too. As far a breaking stuff goes that's down to you, a good soaking helps, if you've got something poking out, two nuts or grips, if it's flush I use left hand drill bits, they weaken and heat the stud on the way in and when they grab they usually unscrew it on the end of the drill.

gstuart · Mar 15, 2015

Diesel Do said:
I get the engine hot first, it seems to make everything more free. It's the carbon that comes up the sides that glues the injectors in, if your seals aren't leaking you won't struggle as much. I loosen the injector bolts a couple of turns then run the engine, drink tea, listen for a change in tone, then remove it, the change in tone means it's moved off its seat and disturbed the carbon that's glueing it in. You then have to clean the hole out and get the seat spotless, I've got an injector seat cutter for that, it removes any damage too. As far a breaking stuff goes that's down to you, a good soaking helps, if you've got something poking out, two nuts or grips, if it's flush I use left hand drill bits, they weaken and heat the stud on the way in and when they grab they usually unscrew it on the end of the drill.

ah bless u, I thought u just turned the engine over but makes more sense with it running allowing the continuation of pressure behind the injector to breaks it's seal

have put this off for a while now , as I thought at first I could get the camshaft cover off without removing the injectors but when I cleaned my inlet manifold out had a proper look and realised this wasn't the case

plus I see exchange injectors are around £100 each

ideally would like to drop a new set in mine but £400 is a lot to justify at the moment , been reading about the ultrasonic bath units but don't know how good they are

am reading engine roughness through the hawkeye and also letting by according to the mm3 test the analiser is showing

it does run very well with a synergy and no smoking but know it's only time

decided I wish to get another td4 engine and rebuild it over a 6-12 month period with the help of my son as a project for me , so im planning well ahead and can do it over time

see the engine has to drop down to get it out , shame it doesnt lift out , would be easier i would have thought in lifting instead of trying to drop it then getting the car out of the way

thks again

kwondo · Mar 15, 2015

Diesel Do said:
Pretty similar to how I do it

thanks for the reply, I have just done a leak off test and it shows on cranking and running that injector 1 is almost double what the other 3 are individually,
So am I right in presuming that it is injector 1 with the fault? and not an electrical /sensor issue before I attempt to remove?

Diesel Do · Mar 15, 2015

That shows a mechanical fault with the leak off side. It tends to give poor/none starting situations because it stops the high pressure build up of fuel when cranking. So the one leaking off the most is the suspect

pardec · Mar 15, 2015

Planning on doing mine sometime this week, fingers crossed.

Had a leak back test done a while back and number 2 and 3 where well out.
Starting has gotten worse over the last couple of weeks, sometimes up to 4 attempts.
Idle is also lumpy but has gotten better since i turned the synergy power side off

Managed to source 2 brand new injectors for £180.00, which i thought was a bargain

kwondo · Mar 15, 2015

Diesel Do said:
That shows a mechanical fault with the leak off side. It tends to give poor/none starting situations because it stops the high pressure build up of fuel when cranking. So the one leaking off the most is the suspect

Thanks, just undone the nuts on the injector, one nut was a 8mm with an attached washer type. came undone easy the other one was a 10mm head which also came undone easy, so before I attempted to start engine to lift injector a bit, I thought I would see if the torx bolts would move one did easy but the one with the odd 10mm nut snapped off just below the torx bit.. I think that a previous owner has changed this one at some time, I have only owned the td4 12 months.

so my question is do I have to remove the torx bolt out in order to take the injector out. Almost thinking of taking to someone else to do! and pay!...that hurt to say!

Diesel Do · Mar 15, 2015

Send a picture

kwondo · Mar 17, 2015

Diesel Do said:
Send a picture

sorry didn't get chance to take photo, will do on the weekend, out of interest got a quote from landrover to remove. supply and fit a new injector, £674.46 they would do it although would prefer I had a diagnostic first at an extra £140. That's a bit steep for me!

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Member

Well-Known Member

D3 Grandad

Well-Known Member

D3 Grandad

Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Similar threads