I'm still chasing a random suspension "knock" that I can't quite pinpoint. Bushes, droplinks and anti-roll bar bushes all looked OK last time I was under it. However, I don't think the car has ever had any strut top mounts (front or rear). Are these troublesome on FL1 TD4? (Car has about 160,000 on it and is 20 years old next year). I just wondered how big a job it was and whether there was any quick-and-easy test that could be done?
Thanks Nodge. Are they a bad job? Presumably I need to take the strut of and compress the springs?
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Put your hand on the top mount and get the car bounced. You should feel any play.
Also, I had a loose top nut which made a knock, easily tightened with an Allen key and spanner, but I changed them for new nylock nuts to prevent repeat. The FL2 nut is better than the FL1 top nut and fits fine.
Also, I had a loose top nut which made a knock, easily tightened with an Allen key and spanner, but I changed them for new nylock nuts to prevent repeat. The FL2 nut is better than the FL1 top nut and fits fine.
Excellent, thanks. Do you mean stick my hand up inside the arch next to the spring, or feel from the other side on top of the strut tower in the engine bay, for the knock? Also, do the rears ever give any trouble?
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
On top of strut.
Remove header bottle and dis battery and pull fuse box to one side for access to each side strut.
Not had same prob at rear. Maybe because they don't turn!! The turning should happen within the strut and on the top bearing. If you watch the top whilst someone turns the steering wheel the strut top shouldn't move!
Remove header bottle and dis battery and pull fuse box to one side for access to each side strut.
Not had same prob at rear. Maybe because they don't turn!! The turning should happen within the strut and on the top bearing. If you watch the top whilst someone turns the steering wheel the strut top shouldn't move!
