not sure it will matter whether you spin them with wheels on or not except it would be easier to check for play in the bearings.

Start with the wheel you didnt jack up (n/s rear?) and see if there is any play or noise when spinning.

Is the noise louder when cornering or just the same?
 
bobbler said:
not sure it will matter whether you spin them with wheels on or not except it would be easier to check for play in the bearings.

Start with the wheel you didnt jack up (n/s rear?) and see if there is any play or noise when spinning.

Is the noise louder when cornering or just the same?
Click to expand...

by play, I assume you mean in and out, rather than just the freeplay in the diffs/hubs?

The noise it just the same when cornering - sometimes apparent, sometimes not.

It's most noticeable at lower speed, I suppose that's just because the road noise it less.

if you could imagine someone tapping a fork on the rear prop shaft (the hollow tubular bit) - that's what it sounds like.... but it's not something tapping on that - as it's mile away from everything.

When I was steaming along at about 30mph along a straight, I could make the noise happen by stamping on the throttle, OR by jumping off the throttle. It's not always this predictable though.
 
to check the bearings, jack each wheel up in turn and hold the wheel at 3 & 9 oclock and feel for movement then at 12 & 6 oclock and do the same if there is play then your bearings could be worn.

a cv joint has been known to click when its on its way out and prop ujs can make a similar noise to your description but you would have noticed this when you spun the wheels before (as long as the opposite wheel is on the floor then the prop should spin when you rotate the wheel).

I have a similar noise at the moment on the disco but its not speed related. My steering damper housing is pretty much goosed and the damper needs replacing but it only rattles on bumps/potholes and not under acceleration so not much help there. Sorry.
 
I am clutching at straws here but do you have mud shields on your discs? Could it be a stone wedged? I know it was mentioned earlier....When you put the clutch in does the noise stop? When coasting out of gear can you still hear the ticking?

You could do with a set of axle stands and a 4x4 hi lift 2.25 ton tolley jack... not on offer at Halfords but will be.
I bought this socket set on offer a while back... its paid for itself 3 times over.Halfords | Halfords Advanced Professional 150 piece Socket/Ratchet Set Life time warranty! Worth a look.
 
If you had hub caps I would say that someone had slipped a ball bearing inside for a laugh....
 
MrJC said:
I am clutching at straws here but do you have mud shields on your discs? Could it be a stone wedged? I know it was mentioned earlier....When you put the clutch in does the noise stop? When coasting out of gear can you still hear the ticking?

You could do with a set of axle stands and a 4x4 hi lift 2.25 ton tolley jack... not on offer at Halfords but will be.
I bought this socket set on offer a while back... its paid for itself 3 times over.Halfords | Halfords Advanced Professional 150 piece Socket/Ratchet Set Life time warranty! Worth a look.
Click to expand...

Hi - cheers for the pointers on the halfords kit. I had to go out and buy a ratchet and a 17mm socket aswell the other day, for the adjuster nut on the handbrake (and no doubt needed for several other places) £30 for a 1/2" drive ratchet!!!! I was told it was a decent one though, made by laser... looks sturdy enough - I just have to remember not to put 4ft of scaffold pole on the end of it if I'm having trouble getting a nut off.

as for the noise - I did test the coasting thing round a couple of corners - it still happens. but it's sort of sporadic. I don't think it sounds like a trapped stone - I reckon that's be more like a screech - like a dodgy wheel bearing or something.... I could believe it was a UJ that was perhaps causing the rear prop shaft to judder and hit something else metal, but there's not play in any of the uj's, and nothing around the prop shaft for it to hit.

The only place there was the tiniest tinest amount of play was the front output bearing from the transfer box out to the front prop shaft. It deffo wasn't the uj, as the play was evident if you moved the uj itself up and down (if you see what i mean). It was a very very small amount of play though, so I don't know how important it is.

*sigh*

I'll try checking for play in the wheels, etc, tonight - see what that yields.
 
Uh-Oh....

The noise has gone!

I was so please when I set off this morning and the noise had dissapeared - then I realised that this is probably very bad news....

Also, unless I'm loosing my marbles there's a new rumble at high speeds (60mph) when on the power.... connected???

if there is no connection between the old noise, and the new rumble/vibration, then we're no further forward... i'll just carry on until something goes bang... fingers crossed though, there could be a link, and we could be a stage closer to working it out.
 
farmershort said:
Also, this morning on the way to work, I was trying to pin down the noise... sounds almost like it's coming from under the passenger seat area. Obv this is not a scientific method to locate something like this - lol.
Click to expand...

hehe all i could think of was a bolt bouncing around your battery box....

:behindsofa::focus:
 
ok - some progresss I think...

on the way home, the noise came back briefly when I turned left at a t junction - tick tick tick (that was the noice, but loud)...

as soon as I straightened up, it went away - but was followed by a bit of a squeeling/whistling noise. This noise wasn't like the squeeling front pads, it was slightly lower pitched, but still a squeel...


anyway, further on in the journey, it appeared that said noise was a squeel at low speeds, and then a low low ruble/grinding at high speeds - and also seems to cause judder when accelerating.

so, you remember that one wheel I didn't check (passenger side rear) - I checked for play at 3 oclock and 9oclock - nope, fine.... then I checked at 6 o clock, and 12 o clock... wobble wobble wobble.

also, spinning the wheel made some high clanging noises in/around the rear diff - is it possible that one side of the output from the diff is knackered because of a wheel bearing?

ok, most important question - what tools do I need to do the rear wheel bearings? I heard of a slide hammer being mentioned - wtf is one of those?
 
and the other bad news is that i've got to drive the full length of the M42 again in the morning with the trailer of pigs on :(
 
storm99 said:
There will be tail-backs on the m42 tomorrow then..
Click to expand...

I was worried someone would hint at that...


more updates - noise is nothing to do with rear diff...


as I was spinning the rear wheel whilst waiting to show my neighbour what I'd found, I noticed that for a split instant, the rear uj on the rear prop shaft jumped a little on one of it's axis....

a little more playing about later, and I could here the faintest "click" as the UJ jumped. It's a bugger UJ AND buggers wheel bearings


so, landyzone massive - I assume the wheel bearing will stand up to the journey - it's not actually likely to fall off is it?

with regards the uj - should I disconnect the rear prop shaft altogether just to be safe, or is a uj fail fairly nice? I've never actually seen one fail.... do they blow a hole in the floor, or just get bloody noisy? Will the landy still work ok with the rear prop off?

Thanks all
 
Sorry to bump this again - I don't have much daylight left, and need to take the pigs at 6 in the morning... could I / should I remove the rear prop shaft as a precaution, or just stick with it and fix it tomoz night?
 
farmershort said:
I was worried someone would hint at that...


more updates - noise is nothing to do with rear diff...


as I was spinning the rear wheel whilst waiting to show my neighbour what I'd found, I noticed that for a split instant, the rear uj on the rear prop shaft jumped a little on one of it's axis....

a little more playing about later, and I could here the faintest "click" as the UJ jumped. It's a bugger UJ AND buggers wheel bearings


so, landyzone massive - I assume the wheel bearing will stand up to the journey - it's not actually likely to fall off is it?

with regards the uj - should I disconnect the rear prop shaft altogether just to be safe, or is a uj fail fairly nice? I've never actually seen one fail.... do they blow a hole in the floor, or just get bloody noisy? Will the landy still work ok with the rear prop off?

Thanks all
Click to expand...

When the wheel bearing fails it's most likely to weld itself to the shaft and cause the offending wheel to cease rotational motion. The result will be a large black streak on the tarmac and a large brown streak in yer keks.

When the prop goes if you are doing any great speed the chances are you are going to look like one of them sucker garfields with your face and palms pressed firmly against the windscreen.

The landy will work fine with the rear prop off. You will have to engage the difflock in order to move it though.
 
Cheers Ratty, I'm afraid I had to leave before 6am this morning, so I just risked it with it as is....

I've got away with it so far - touch wood.

Off to MVC in cov at lunch time to get a UJ (£15) and a rear wheel bearing kit (£24). I also need to buy a bloody big socket to get the hub locknut off - does anyone know what size I need? Apparently they dont sell box spanners, so I'm hoping a big big socket will do the job.

Thanks

FS
 
you can buy the socket from most landy spares suppliers but you can do just as good a job with a large pair of stilstons if you cant get hold of one in time :)
 
farmershort said:
Cheers Ratty, I'm afraid I had to leave before 6am this morning, so I just risked it with it as is....

I've got away with it so far - touch wood.

Off to MVC in cov at lunch time to get a UJ (£15) and a rear wheel bearing kit (£24). I also need to buy a bloody big socket to get the hub locknut off - does anyone know what size I need? Apparently they dont sell box spanners, so I'm hoping a big big socket will do the job.

Thanks

FS
Click to expand...

52mm
 
thanks ratty :)

Cheers bobbler - I'll try and get a 52mm socket OR box spanner by the end of the working day, failing that, I'll give it a go with the wrench :)
 
I'm feeling much less proud of myself today, than I did at the end of the wheel bearing replacement last night :(

I came to check for play again today, and there is some - plenty in fact. The new bearings don't seem to have done anything to improve it :(

So, what am I missing? Is it co's the shiny bit of the half shaft is worn? is there somewhere else in the hub that could be worn? I'm so racked off at the moment - and worried... supposed be driving to brighton tomorrow night, and having serious doubts about whether we'd get there in the landy... :(

please tell me I can fix this!

thanks

FS
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dag019
LT77 clicking loudly in 5th gear
Replies
7
Views
737
Skolmate
Skolmate
L
Grinding noise coming from gearbox area
Replies
6
Views
2K
robbie the greatl
robbie the greatl
T90DGG
Strange noise when steering
Replies
13
Views
2K
Anaconda
A
T
Series 3 New "ticking" noise upon acceleration (in gear only)
Replies
5
Views
1K
boguing
boguing
Zorro587
Noise gone but prop shaft queries abound
Replies
13
Views
649
Nodge68
Nodge68