wammers said:
Well i mean whats the bloody use of stripping a clutch out and not at least fitting a spinner and maybe a release bearing. Or if you have any sense a complete clutch assembly. I mean how often do you want to be doing it? Total false economy just to wash the bloody thing if it's contaminated and put it back. Once you get oil in a friction material it's knackered. No matter how much you clean it the oil just weeps out when it gets hot. :D:D
Click to expand...

Totally agree Tony, when the release arm pins went on mine I put a complete clutch in even though the original looked fine. Didn't want to have to do the job again in the near future. Did you miss my little play on words? Talking Dutch/stick the CLOG in :D:D
 
tomcat59alan said:
Totally agree Tony, when the release arm pins went on mine I put a complete clutch in even though the original looked fine. Didn't want to have to do the job again in the near future. Did you miss my little play on words? Talking Dutch/stick the CLOG in :D:D
Click to expand...

No i noticed it. But couldn't think of a retort that did not invovle dick van and dyke so let it go. :D:D:D
 
A few possibilities spring to mind, as you say that the clutch plate looked OK a short while back.

1) Oil leaking onto the clutch, so the clutch is slipping, then starts to bite better.

2) The clutch release mechanism partially seized / tight, and is taking its time to fully release the clutch pressure plate.

3) Broken diaphragm spring on the pressure plate.

Unfortunately any of the above is major work.
 
I suspect a bit of brake fluid must have wormed its way in from doing the modulator. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll burn off too. You really have to cane it to get it to do it so not an issue as I don't normally drive like that. Otherwise I'll take it apart in the warmer weather!

Spinner: makes sense. Suspected that's what you might have meant. Learnt something new. :)
 
Grrrrrr said:
I suspect a bit of brake fluid must have wormed its way in from doing the modulator. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll burn off too. You really have to cane it to get it to do it so not an issue as I don't normally drive like that. Otherwise I'll take it apart in the warmer weather!

Spinner: makes sense. Suspected that's what you might have meant. Learnt something new. :)
Click to expand...

No probs, that is what us old folks are here to do spread knowledge. :);)
 
Just to update on this: the next time I drove the car I couldn't recreate the problem. So, whatever had got on there had clearly burnt off and fixed itself! :)

Result!
 
N5Fav said:
A few possibilities spring to mind, as you say that the clutch plate looked OK a short while back.

1) Oil leaking onto the clutch, so the clutch is slipping, then starts to bite better.

2) The clutch release mechanism partially seized / tight, and is taking its time to fully release the clutch pressure plate.

3) Broken diaphragm spring on the pressure plate.

Unfortunately any of the above is major work.
Click to expand...


Revisiting this as another possibility sprang to mind having done some reading on another (unrelated) issue: early sign of dual mass flywheel (DMF) wearing out. Worth keeping an eye on.
 
Hi Grrrrrr, how is your clutch -still working fine? I have got the same problem in my Freelander2 '10. Same sympthoms as yours, clutch loosing grip for about 1-2 secs. when maximum torque applay, and then bite stronger and pulls well. I have made test with 3rd gear and handbrake applied and engine stall imediately -there were no clutch slipping. I have 5000mil route to do next week, should I worry about my clutch?
 
I'm no expert so bear that in mind. I can only speak from my experience.

In my case it looks like the previous owner put a cheap replacement clutch in. The BMW engine gives so much torque that unless you put a Valeo clutch in it just cannot handle it near max torque. If you have a powerbox or similar it just blows it away. So, lesson learnt there. [whispers] That said I'm still driving it! It is getting worse, I think, but as long as I don't floor it (and I rarely do) then it is OK. I've done thousands of miles since.

5000 miles sounds quite a trek though. If I was going out of the country I think I'd get a second opinion from a reputable dealer before I left. I don't know about the Freelander but the P38 clutch and assembly is pretty reasonable from Island-4x4. The work involved getting it out is a bit of a pig. Took me 2 days when I did it. Again, Freelander might be easier? Someone on here will know, I'm sure.
 
Maku said:
Hi Grrrrrr, how is your clutch -still working fine? I have got the same problem in my Freelander2 '10. Same sympthoms as yours, clutch loosing grip for about 1-2 secs. when maximum torque applay, and then bite stronger and pulls well. I have made test with 3rd gear and handbrake applied and engine stall imediately -there were no clutch slipping. I have 5000mil route to do next week, should I worry about my clutch?
Click to expand...
If the clutch is hydraulic, do not discount a problem with the hydraulics not releasing fully. Ford have a problem with this on new Eco Boost Focus cars which wears the clutch out in about 6K miles:eek:
 
Thanks for promp answer, I haven't got a powerbox (as far as I'm aware), cos previous owner was a lady doctor. I have spoken to my mate mechanic and he said that it won't be any better over the time, BUT after the test (3rd gear and handbrake) I've done, sympthoms acctually dissapeard. What has happened, I burned a little bit of clutch plate and it looks like it's fixed -not for long I think tho. Car have 46 thusend miles at the moment. I have got two theories what could have happend:
1. There is slighly oil leak on to the clutch plate from engine or gearbox oil seal -this option require gerbox to be teaken off and replace seals..
2. Optimistic option: previous lady owner was driving in the very gentle way, so the friction plate has glazed...if it's make sense?
With this option cluch need to be use slighly harder and everything should be fine....again question -for how long☺
Btw, for complete cluth with fly wheell and labour, mechanic saids £700. Clutch Luk -are they any good?
 
Maku said:
Thanks for promp answer, I haven't got a powerbox (as far as I'm aware), cos previous owner was a lady doctor. I have spoken to my mate mechanic and he said that it won't be any better over the time, BUT after the test (3rd gear and handbrake) I've done, sympthoms acctually dissapeard. What has happened, I burned a little bit of clutch plate and it looks like it's fixed -not for long I think tho. Car have 46 thusend miles at the moment. I have got two theories what could have happend:
1. There is slighly oil leak on to the clutch plate from engine or gearbox oil seal -this option require gerbox to be teaken off and replace seals..
2. Optimistic option: previous lady owner was driving in the very gentle way, so the friction plate has glazed...if it's make sense?
With this option cluch need to be use slighly harder and everything should be fine....again question -for how long☺
Btw, for complete cluth with fly wheell and labour, mechanic saids £700. Clutch Luk -are they any good?
Click to expand...
LuK may well be OEM, I think the DMF is LuK. If you do the clutch, look very carefully at the DMF, you may need to change that while the clutch is being done.
Oil leak may be the problem, glazing unlikely. As a sweeping generalisation, Women tend to slip the clutch more which means it's likely to have had a hard life.

I would bleed the clutch if it's hydraulic.
 
Haha, that's right -clutch not necessarily have had easy live with lady doctor, and I think you were right about oil leak. I've jumped underneth today and this is what I found:
****Oooops, can not upload picture from my computer****
Anyway, connection of gearbox and engine was wet from oil -not much though, but if there was an oil, that means it has to appear from somewhere. I knew, I have slight oil leak from the oil sump (where the sump stick to engine), but this is lower then the clutch, so It coud not transfer oil to clutch. What I did not know however, was that the oil sump isn't acctually stick directly to the ingine. There is another piece between engine and oil sump, and edge of this piece stick to the edge of engine it self all way round, like the oil sump but higher -also in the clutch compartment. There is exactly the same grey silant like in oil sump (which currently leaking), so i think there must be leak as well. Hope i did not mix it to much, as I'm not English and that would be difficult to describe even in my language hehe. I will try to post pictures later. What could I do now is spray whole clutch with brake cleaner throw the hole underneth, and hope that it's help, as I said -ther is no much clutch slip. Brake cleaner shouldn't make any damages to oil seals...i think???
 
Maku said:
Haha, that's right -clutch not necessarily have had easy live with lady doctor, and I think you were right about oil leak. I've jumped underneth today and this is what I found:
****Oooops, can not upload picture from my computer****
Anyway, connection of gearbox and engine was wet from oil -not much though, but if there was an oil, that means it has to appear from somewhere. I knew, I have slight oil leak from the oil sump (where the sump stick to engine), but this is lower then the clutch, so It coud not transfer oil to clutch. What I did not know however, was that the oil sump isn't acctually stick directly to the ingine. There is another piece between engine and oil sump, and edge of this piece stick to the edge of engine it self all way round, like the oil sump but higher -also in the clutch compartment. There is exactly the same grey silant like in oil sump (which currently leaking), so i think there must be leak as well. Hope i did not mix it to much, as I'm not English and that would be difficult to describe even in my language hehe. I will try to post pictures later. What could I do now is spray whole clutch with brake cleaner throw the hole underneth, and hope that it's help, as I said -ther is no much clutch slip. Brake cleaner shouldn't make any damages to oil seals...i think???
Click to expand...
If you could get Coke (the drink) into the bellhousing it will clean the clutch drive and pressure plate. Method used by rally mech's.:)
 
Maku said:
Thanks for promp answer, I haven't got a powerbox (as far as I'm aware), cos previous owner was a lady doctor. I have spoken to my mate mechanic and he said that it won't be any better over the time, BUT after the test (3rd gear and handbrake) I've done, sympthoms acctually dissapeard. What has happened, I burned a little bit of clutch plate and it looks like it's fixed -not for long I think tho. Car have 46 thusend miles at the moment. I have got two theories what could have happend:
1. There is slighly oil leak on to the clutch plate from engine or gearbox oil seal -this option require gerbox to be teaken off and replace seals..
2. Optimistic option: previous lady owner was driving in the very gentle way, so the friction plate has glazed...if it's make sense?
With this option cluch need to be use slighly harder and everything should be fine....again question -for how long☺
Btw, for complete cluth with fly wheell and labour, mechanic saids £700. Clutch Luk -are they any good?
Click to expand...

I don't think it'll fail catastrophically. No idea how long it takes on a Freelander so cannot comment on the £700. It does take a while on the P38 though. The Freelander has some weird IRD thingy. No idea what the symptoms of that failing are. Mad Hat Man has played with Freelanders a bit more and might have experience of this.

46k doesn't sound a lot for a clutch to be failing unless you ride it a lot.
 
I guess, I have to take some extra Coke with me to Norway;) So far so good -still driving fine after test with 3rd gear and handbrake:) Thank you all for suggestions.
 
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