dag019
Well-Known Member
sounds like the treatment I got so I am hoping it will sort itself out with no problems.Some cream and pain killers and it fixed itself.
sounds like the treatment I got so I am hoping it will sort itself out with no problems.Some cream and pain killers and it fixed itself.
I will check the belhousing bolts in the morning although did not notice a gap when working on things today.Long shot but I've seen it on another non landy car. Bell housing bolts came loose and the box seperated from the block slightly causing drag when the pedal was pressed. Could also try a spacer (M6 nut?) Between the slave piston and pushrod.
I had this issue after changing the slave on my Renault van, confused the hell out of me then I noticed the piston on the aftermarket slave didn't protrude as much as the original, forget what I did, either a spacer or I welded an extension to the pushrod and that fixed it.I will check the belhousing bolts in the morning although did not notice a gap when working on things today.
Although the spacer should work in theory is that not just masking the problem as it was working fine before, something changed, meaning it was not and now the new cylinder is giving the same symptoms as the old one? If the old one was working fine and it was just an issue with the new one I would be more inclined to try the spacer to rectify.
That is my worry as it started with the old cylinder. The cylinders are trw so should be decent and the one is is replacing is also a trw so they should be identical. I have resigned myself to splitting the box. It should not be the fork as that has the hd plate on the back. But I guess the slipper pad prongs could be worn.I had this issue after changing the slave on my Renault van, confused the hell out of me then I noticed the piston on the aftermarket slave didn't protrude as much as the original, forget what I did, either a spacer or I welded an extension to the pushrod and that fixed it.
But yes, if the thrust bearing or fork is worn it's just masking the fault.
What do you mean by a damper in this context? the fact I a unsure what you are referring to probably means I do not have one, but better to check.I think I asked already, but do you have a damper fitted? Worth trying with it bypassed if you do before stripping it.
I have seen a release bearing destroyed in much shorter time but I see you have a HD one fitted so should be OK as long as its an all metal one. The plastic ones melt easily
I have had a similar failure previously where one of the pads split in two across the hole causing the same issue. When this happened with mine it just made the clutch very stiff to operate but did not cause it to not fully disengage. the fact that yours did gives me hope that I will not be splitting the box in vain.I changed the clutch of my 90 in the summer of 2018 even though it was still working because of the mileage and because it felt sort of stiff and " and as you say "dragged " some.
Turned out that one of the pads on the fork [ a heavy duty item ] had taken a walk. By the look the rivet that held the pad to the fork had come loose in its hole which had then worn larger until it fell out. As a result the release bearing was only being pressed on one side causing drag.
On the replacement I welded the pins in place.
After how many miles?Another valeo
Mine exploded with no warning.View attachment 235922